Gloyale

NO offense man, but htis is bad advice, and wrong. As has been said. There is no lubrication to the transfer clutch when the engine is off. The driven clutch plates are in constant contact with the drive plates, and towing them on 2 wheels will destroy (or at least wear) the transfer clutch plates. Plus if for any reason, the plates began to heat and lock toghether, the car could try to buck itself of the dolly.

You are not understanding that this is an Automatic 4wd. The 4wd is not engaged by gears and collars like a manual. When a manual is disengaged the gear sets physically are not connected. Although they are still not lubricated, these heavy gears can *idle* as the car rolls relatively harmlessly. Now, in THIS case, we are talking about an automatic, which uses a hydraulic clutch pack set. It is just like all the other clutches in an automatic transmission, with sets of multiple plates, stacked alternately connected to an inside and outside drum. One set is drive, the other set is driven. These plates are in constant contact, even when not pressurized (and lubricated) by the pump. Towing an automatic subaru (parttime 4wd OR AWD) creates a situation where the driven plates in the transfer clutch are being dragged over completely stationary drive plates with no lubrication. DO NOT TOW AN AUTOMATIC SUBARU WITH 2 WHEELS UP (unless you disconnect the center driveline.)

This is a misconcetption. The lower starter bolt is a stud set into the bellhousing. Just like EVERY subaru since 1980. The pre 98 trans will bolt perfectly to the post 98 engines, and vice versa. Upper starter bolt is an engine to trans bolt, but the lower starter bolt is NOT part of the engine to trans mounting. I am not sure where this misconception started, but it needs to stop. It makes it seem as if there is some *probblem* bolting old and new engines and trans toghether. There is not.

This means the transfer clutch *driven* plates were spinning between the *drive* plates with no lubrication. May not have killed it, but it surely did wear them down, probably alot. All Subaru automatics should be towed on a flatbed. AWD manual trans subarus can be towed *Flat* with all 4 wheels on the ground. 4wd manual with part time 4wd are the only Subarus that can be towed on a dolly. (without removing driveshaft)

good catch. You are correct. I would check out the EGR solenoid for function

cv axle

Evaporation line for the gas tank.

yeah but the computer still thinks it is an automatic. that is what the 4 code designates

remove the lower shock mount bolt. this will allow the arm to pivot down further to get the clearance to pull the axle out.

Brace it on the press bridges using the the strut mount and ball joint mount sections. Don't try to brace it against the brake mount area. You'll need to add a 3/4 inch bar under the balljoint area to level it with the strut mount

That is the model designator. 1-4 for MPFI excact # specifies manual or auto, cali or federal 5-8 for SPFI, same deal If you are getting that steady, then there are no codes

Do you have a turbo model? Or is the exhaust really that changed from the first gen Forresters?

Code p0400 could mean you need a new gas cap. Look at the rubber seal on it, likely the rubber is cracked. misfire codes are probably a sign of needing new plug wires.

I recently did a forrester where I had to remove the whole knuckle and put it on the press. Except my 8 ton press in the shop didn't work. I had to take it to thte machine shop and have them use there 20 ton press:eek:

The ebay ad is legit. I have been watching that tranny for literally 2 years. It was 300 at first, then 200, now 100. He is really ready to get rid of it, and I have spoke with him on the phone personally. It is a brand new, 4wd, fulltime auto for an a 4 Cyl XT. An excact bolt in for your GL turbo.

here is one that this guy has had forever. I have never had the money for shipping, but it is down the road from you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250043664567&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

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replied to worng thread

Sounds just like the fried pump in the legacy trans I replaced recently. A tranny shop could quickly test the line pressure, but my guess is that the pump cooked and failed. Now it cannot generate enough pressure to engage valves and lock clutches

Couldn't you just pop out that roll pin and swap the L-series collar onto the EJ selector shaft?

Great work! I am working on a conterpart project to this here in the US. Fitting an AWD EJ transfer section onto a L series (EA82) part time 4wd Dual range. It will sadly still need an adapter plate to bolt to an EJ motor, as we didn't get any D/R EJ cases here to work with to hold the Hi/lo shaft. Could I trouble you, to measure the diameter of the large bearing on the rear end of the Pinion shaft? Is the diameter the same on the L-series shaft? Also, are the main sections of the input shaft the same diameter? Could one press the gearsets from one onto the other to mix nad match shafts and gearsets? If you don't want to divert this thread further reply to me in a PM Or it could be useful info for the thread too.

could have been fairly harmless piston slap. It's not a good idea to do a full valve job on a worn bottom end. I would have just done the headgaskets and left the valves alone unless damaged. Or gone ahead and put rings and bearing in the bottom end too.

Do you have the intake tube installed correct? got the big tube that goes from underneath to the IAC?

I don't think so. I have run into an issue with rear alignment after lifts. Please prove me wrong.

Hotwire style? I've got as few. PM for price.