Gloyale

Do you mean Camber? Caster can not be adjusted.

I don't believe the rear have an adjustable bolt. You can get alittle adjusment out of it simply by pushing inward/pulling outward as you tighten the bolts. My concern if the rear end is out that far, would be are the struts holding true? or do they have an inward bow?

I should clarify that I do think you are right for at least looking into the issue. Perhaps the grommets replaced are all that's needed. 1000 miles is low for BAD leaks. It's just those don't look too bad to me. I guess It is just a matter of excactly how bad the leaks are. real *leaks* should be fixed. *seapage* (which is what i have been really talking about) of a certain amount is more natural, and can be almost impossible to prevent. Subipilot, has it been actually dripping? leaving a mark? And has there been any noticable oil loss?

They are not. Steel bolt in aluminum engine. Which do YOU think will yield first?

84 car will be an EA81 if the 85 is an EA81(hatch, Brat) it will work (although Hatch tank may be different from Brat?) If the 85 car is an EA82 (wagon, sedan, 3door coupe) it definately won't work.

Quote from Pontiac6000= "And yes my engines are almost dirt and grease free. I power wash the engine bay yearly" Now you backtrack again and change your statement. Silt, dirt, grime...nah......you said GREASE the first time. Where is the grease coming from? I want to talk you into taking pictures of these supposedly leak free 20 year old cars that only cost you 100 bucks to fix. You are excagerating your point, it is obvious. There is no such thing as a 20 year old car (espescially a pontiac) that doesn't leak ANY fluids of ANY kind AT all. If they didn't leak, why would you need to pressure wash them?

Good for you for doing an actual *repair*, rather than throwing money and a junkyard motor at it. I feel it is almost always best to repair what you've got than take a risk on a unknown junkyard motor just plopped in.

That is a backtrack from "100 % zero leaks"

There are 2 types of values here. *Driveable* value, and *Collectable* value. 4wd Sedans are more rare. They were all either Turbo GL-10s or *high luxury* carbed model. (Automatic, PW, PS, AC, Sunroof,6 speaker sound, available only in Black, Silver, or Metallic Dark Grey) 4wd wagons are a dime a dozen, and came in all sorts of trim levels. I think 4wd Sedans are WAY cooler than wagons. But aside from my opinion, it is the rarity that I am saying adds value. Wagon may have more *driveable* value as a car to use for transportation. But Brats, Coupes, Sedans, are more rare and more likely to have *collectable* value.

Undoing the strut bolts is the easiest way by far for EJ cars. Those bends in the dust shield are fine, just bend them back a hair so they don't scrape or drag.

So, you are more concerned with *losing value* on a slabe of artificial rock you PARK on, than for the environment. You'd rather park a known leaky car in the street (which is illegal) and pollute streams and storms drains than dirty your expensive status symbol concrete. Thanks.

Bull S**t. Show me pictures from under each of these cars. So the mechanics must love working on your cars, NO DIRTY HANDS! amazing! Just because there isn't a massive spot on the ground, doesn't mean there are no leaks. I'm not advocating neglecting leaks or polutting the environment. It is just that there is a real world aspect of cars.......the oil starts trtying to come out from the moment you put it in. Spending $5000 on a driveway? Sorry, but I have better things to spend money on. Figures, it is ussually people with more money that biitch about little *problems* as if having money entitles the whole world to work for you.

Go look. There WILL be some oil under there. I would LOVE to see pictures of the machine that is impervious to natural forces of gravity, heat, and time. And BTW. The Dealer is not going to do free *repair* of minor seapage. It wouldn't be considered a warrantied *failure*. They absolutely would either not touch it or charge you for the work.

So you can expect all you want. But you have to live in the real world. I'll bet I could find that much oil leak on brand new Subaru's (and many other cars) sitting on the lot.

????auto front diff/manual trans drain plugs are WAY bigger than the oil pan and trans pan plugs??? Rear diff plug doesn't use a washer/gasket/

Uggg........ Stripped belts......and how do you retorque it? This is not an acceptable method to me. (i've had to replace a whole motor after a cam pulley came loose:mad:) Here is the best way. The key is that each Camshaft has a hex notch on it, toward the front of engine. Use a 1 inch open end wrench on the cam to hold it from rotating, then tighten the pulley. This way you can tighten them to 90 + ft/lbs. with no stress on the belt. You just have to remember to leave the Valve covers off until you have the belt pulleys installed. It can even be done with the eninge installed. Although it is WAY easier to do DOHC motors out of the car.

Hmm......maybe you have to actually see it for it to look bad........but........ That doesn't look bad. I mean, really, have you had to add any oil? I know with a brand new engine you want it to be shiny and 100% leak free, but really, those very few drops don't seem like much. seems like the valve cover grommets are leaking. Oil on top of enigne is likely spill from filling, or possibly Power Steering leaks for passenger side.

C'mon. it is a diagram. You are just being intimidated. look at it. it IS a picture of the enigne, and shows you what you are asking. Use it. Get better lighting for your pictiures

I'm pretty sure the rear quarter glass is adhesive bonded, not just a gasket. You'll need the wire window removal tool, like a wire saw, to cut the glue. Then a roll of Butyl-acetate rubberized adhesive for replacing it.

If it was a GL-10 from the factory it WOULD have had a digital dash. If it doesn;t now it has been replaced. If it was a Brat, Coupe, or even Sedan, it would be worth alot more. as it is, it may be worth 1000-1500, right now. Probably won't increase in value much like a brat. It would be excellent for a parts car for someone.

Some of them ground internally through the mounting, other have that wire to ensure a solid ground. The blue wire is for the choke, and should have 12v all the time to heat the choke spring. if hte choke is gone, someone may have disconnected that wire. the third wire on the carb is for the bowl vent solenoid. Also should have voltage when running. If that fails, it will blow the fuse for all 3, and all the gauges will drop to zero. You can run with it disconnected, but your milage will SUCK.

The inhibitor switch was on the autos shifter. The wires for it are probably still buried under the center console. They should be just directly connected to eachother, switch eliminated. MANY of us older subaru owners have had problems with poor power getting to the solenoid. It may not have anything to do with you're swap. I ussually run a fused wire off the battery, or alternately a wire from a fused ignition switched source (depends on wether you want to have you're pushbutton powered by the key switch or not) then mount a pushbutton *momentary contact* switch on the dash. A relay installed on the circuit can also help, but if you are truely getting 0 volts at the solenoid wire, the relay won't help.

Wow. I have never heard of an EJ head cracking! And what in the bottom end "let loose"? You should definately request to see the allegedly destroyed engine. Seems weird. Running fine other than coolant loss? If you could post pictures of the crack in the head that would be SWEET!

Why is everybody so anxious to DOWNGRADE there Subaru? All these people who are recommending a 2.2 swap are just feeding the fires of misconception that the 2.5 is somehow inferior. It makes more power, and is a more sophisticated design (dohc). Now because it has the largest bore of any EJ, it does often lose it's headgasket at 150k instead of 250k, but really, that's not that bad. . The rest of the car will begin to have trouble by 300k when the HG might go again. So you will have gotten the perfect lifespan. A Chevy motor will selfdestruct entirely at 150k Anyhow. To the OP. Rebuild you're 2.5. I commend you. too many people are too quick to do *junkyard* swaps. (there is always a reason a car ends up there:rolleyes:) A worn, high milage 2.2 WILL NOT be superior to a completely rebuilt 2.5. Use Threebond 1215 for the Case halves. Make sure you get the new O-rings for between them. get your headgaskets form Subaru. Timing belt set and waterpump are good ebay items., although you may want to get the belt from Subaru and only use the tensioners from the kit.

A different pump is speced for both, but there is some evidence here on the board that supports the theory either will work. SPFI pump will probably be working a little closer to it's limits, but would be fine. Also, you could go with the F-150, or 80's LTD pump.