Gloyale

Hey man.....How's it going? When you gonna bring that chopped out 3-door down for some wheelin? Yeah, anyhow, it sounds to me liek the disty took a crap. If it doesn't send a pulse, the Ignition won't fire and the fuel pump won't run. Hook a test light to the neg side of the coil and watch for pulsing when you crank it. If you don't have a pulse, you're dead.....lol.....I mean you're disty is dead. I've got a few spares down here in Corvallis if you need to swap one to troubleshoot. Anyhow

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67331&page=4&highlight=injector+trunk Actually you can find it here

There will be lot's more pics as the clean up and reworking gets underway. I hope to be wheelin it by the end of April. Biggest hurdle now is the 2.2 wiring. I might drop it's Hydro EA81 back in it to get it drivng and do the 2.2 swap later, but I hate doing stuff twice. it'll be way easier to do while it's all apart.

You replace the entire cooling system? even the Heater core? Way more than needed. If you disconnect the heater core from the engine at both hoses, there is no risk of spushing anything into the radiator or engine.

You could do either. It may be dependant on which tophats you need to use. I would think you're 98 and a Forester would have the same bolt spacing, but one hat may be taller than the other. Use the one that gives max lift. yup, you could put them right on and get more height, although at some point without crossmember blocks, you may run into overextension issues with the CV. probably be right at the edge of envelope. strut is longer, spring perch is *higher*

If it's too far out int eh rear to be adjusted via the 3 bolts, then likely the pivot bushing in the end(s,ea82) of the links are shifted. Ussually toward the outside. Often, but not always a result of curb whacks. sometimes just age wears the rubber.

that sucks man. sorry to hear about you're loss. but really that is TOTALLY cosmetic. you could easily just replace the light and live with it. Or you could bolt a plate to the tailight mounts and use a slidehammer attached to said plate to pull it back out. A little stress relief hammer and dolly work to get the edge crisp. Easily fixable. I can't see it being any more than 2-3 hours labor at a shop (+ paint )

Also the hillholder doesn't generate any brake pressure. It only locks pressure from the Master cylinder after the brakes are released.

Get the 2.2 ones for sure. the 2.5 have a different end on them that won't seal right on the 2.2 head

You can keep you're hubs, but you will need to get some 25spline turbo axles. OR.....alternately you could split the AWD case, and install the 23 spline stubs instead of the 25 spline. Prolly easier to get turbo axles

For what you need the car for, you will be way happier with AWD. Plus to keep you're S/R you'd need an adapter plate. you MAY need to have you're driveline shortened. The AWD box is little longer

You had you're oil changed at firestone? Hope you had a coupon or something. Otherwise I'd avoid that place like the plague they are notorious here for taking a cars wheels off for a "brake inspection" then not letting you leave, saying "it's not safe like that" and then selling you a $400 caliper replacement and brake job. At least the one here in Corvallis is. Les Schwab isn't much better.

The tool makes it way easier. Wouldn't the time you spent today be worth the 10 bucks?

I'd replace it soon then. It will likely work it's way loose again. Tighten it good for now and keep an eye on it. Plan on replacing it soon though If it tears up the keyway in the crank, the motor is basically toast without alot of work. Pulleys are cheap, Get one for any EJ motor you want, they will all work. I found one on Ebay brand new for $75

wow, just wow. A warrantied, good subaru trans out here is AT LEAST $300, up to $500+ for low milage/newer models('99+ external filter 4eat) I wouldn't ever install a trans for a customer without some warranty. I would be the one screwed if it was no good.

Yes the other half holds the crank timing belt gear in place

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?displayName=Relay+-+Ignition&itemId=prod11299&navValue=15701288&parentId=cat10012&productId=181271&fromString=&itemIdentifier=181271_0_0_59926&filterByKeyWord=&categoryNValue=&isSearchByPartNumber=&categoryDisplayName=Electrical&store=2217&skuDescription=Duralast/Relay-Ignition&fromWhere=&searchText=&_requestid=315413

The ECU grounds the Fuel pump relay to complete the Fuel Pump and ignition coil circuits. If the ECU isn't getting power, neither will the Fuel Pump or the Coil. Test the relay OK?

No. Not in my opinion. The improvement in traction under ALL road conditions out weighs any supposed 4wd advantage. I have been wheeling with a couple AWD lifted Legacies, and they have done just as well if not better than the Part time 4wd Subarus. Unless you are building a strict rock crawler subaru that won't see the street, you are WAY better off with the AWD.

Okay. So pull out that little brown relay. Hold the relay in you're hand, and turn on the key. You should feel a click. Then check for power on the Red/blue wire and the White wires. Should be 12v with key on. IF not, replace relay.

Easy to do, both wires are Black w/White stripe. Run very close in the diagrahm

The AWD in Manual transmissions are purely mechanical. There is no fuse to disable it. That is only on auto trans cars. just get under the car and look for spots were either the exhaust or it's shielding is too close to the driveshaft. Look for wear marks on the driveshaft

Did you inspect the keyway in the pulley, and hte key itself on the crank to make sure there was no damage? also, are you sure you seated the pulley correctly over the key? If both of those are go, then you likely have a pulley that is seperating into 2 pieces (outer collar slipping off the rubber)

That looks like it, but I can't say for sure.

AWD uses a diferential on the pinion shaft. Splitting the drive between front and back like a diff would side to side on an axle. Older boxes just had a collar that locked the front and rear drive toghether.