Gloyale

No, I don't think rear end stuff or driveline. Perhaps a U joint, ussually the one right behind the trans output, but probably not. I am thinking something in you're transfer clutches went. Perhaps the transfer drive hub broke off the end of the main shaft? I've seen it happen a time or two. I think first thing would be to inspect the driveline, but likely it is fine. Pulling it out will get you to step 2 which is to pull the transfer extension housing(rear of trans) and check out the clutches.

No I belioeve that is a cooler for the power steering system. Can someone with a bit more XT6 experience verify? Don't the XT6s' cybrid stytem have a cooler?

Why don't you educate yourself on the functions of the various types of vacuum run systems first? Before you start randomly disconnecting stuff maybe????? First off, wether you have emissions testing or not, modifying that stuff is illegal. Second, if set up properly, those systems will not impede the power, and actually help effieciency (bowl vent solenoid) third, really, it isn't a good idea to start taking stuff off your car without knowing why it was there in the first place.

Search for the timing belt install page. Short of it is that there are dots on each Cam pulley, and a set of 3 hash marks on the flywheel. Viewed by pulling the cap a the rear of the motor bellhaousing.The ignition timing scale is also viewed through that hole for timing, but the 3 hash marks are NOT THE TIMING SCALE, 90 degrees further around rotation you will see the 3 marks. When the center mark is lined up with the arrow on the bell, the dots on the cam pulleys should be one straight up, the other straight down. But basically it sounds like all the covers and the crank pulley should come off to inspect the condition of the keyway, crank and pulley.

Large tube on the aircleaner here should be connected to the ASV valve silencer. The plastic do-dad, that is connected by a big fat tube to the exhaust. The small blue port should be direct intake vacuum, and i believe it needs to be connected to the small tube on the aircleaner. Looks like the aircleaner from an 87 though, as the 85s don't have that solenoid mounted on the front of the air cleaner snorkle like that. Swith the one pointed at the firewall with the one next to it on the air cleaner. That one(pointed back in pics) should just point downward at the drivers head, the other one is attached to the port on the valve cover.

the split would be 99 to 2000 models for the US. I am 99% sure the struts are the same for all 96-99 outbacks

Yeah, but then he'd be right back to stock clearance at the diffs.

The longer I do this, the more I think it is just a characteristic of the symetrical drivetrain coupled to an Automatic. Almost every auto sube I've been in has this vibration when stopped in drive to some exrtent. soem are minor, some are worse. I dunno... If it isn't hurting anything....then uhhh.....I dunno....don't stopp?

2 words Lock Switch

Did he check that the 2 CAMs were still in time to the crank? if the crank sprocket has slipped on it's key, the outer pulleys will be correct but hte crank off.

too coicidental for this to NOT involved a slipped timing belt Pulley loose, now car runs ************ty, 2 cylinders low? that's the T-belt for sure

There for sure is a charge light in you're wagon. Left side of dash, low on the panel with the CEL, Brake, OIL and other lights.

It does use clutch packs. I don't think there are any real upgrades available though. There is a video on youtube of a guy with a Swapped out impreza with an STI Clutch pack LSD. He did a few videos with different tires in the air, testing the LSDs and the DCCD in his 6 speed swap. The *supposed* clutch type, r180 STI rear doesn't do ************ if one wheel is completely in the air. The guy says there must be some resistance to both wheels for the wedges to push against the clutches. His Helical Front LSD wasn't any better. I want to see it tried with the VLSD. Videos are by *funitsu* IIRC. titled DCCD 1/3, 2/3, 3/3 and *teetered*

Yeah, too bad that the ones in the EA82 aren't as easy to get to. But they aren't too hard. Worst part is you gotta take off the timing belt on that side.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb29/Gloyale/DSCF0041-1.jpg[/img]"] The bearing on the lower shaft, left side of picture (rear of trans) is the one that is larger in the FT4wd/AWD boxes. Not sure, but the front bearing on that same shaft may also be larger. So those 2 bearing seats need to be enlarged on the D/R case to fit the larger bearing. From 71 to 74 MM I'm planning on taking both halves of the case empty, but bolted toghether to the machinist and have it *line bored* like would be done for Crank or Cam journals DISCLAIMER.....THIS IS ALL IN PLANNING AND R+D STAGES.....This hasn't been proven to be doable yet,

Nah, no way you got a bent valve. Perhaps sticky but not likely. I'll bet you just have lifters(not really lifter, just an adjuster) that aren't pumping up. The fact it comes and goes is an indication. I would pull the cam case on the drivers side and check out the condition of lash adjusters. I'll bet you've got one that is collapsed and stuck there. Also, Perhaps pull the relief valve spring out of the case and check it's free length, and/or replace it with slightly stiffer/longer, sleeve a skinny spring inside it, something to raise the pressure to the lifters on that side. some even go so far as to place dimes under the lash adjuster, to take up extra slack......IDK about that idea though, you could end up with the lash being too tight.

Diff drain plugs don't have crush washers. Use plumbers tape or brush on type pipe fitting sealer

If you're fuel pressure was low, it would show under load at high RPM, not at idle. I wouldn't mess with that before having the pressure tested. otherwise you are likely wasting money on parts. I am going to say you have a sticky IAC

not sure. Generally you get what you pay for.

I believe any AWD 5 spd from 90 up will have the same VC in it. But........ I am curious why you think it needs replaced. You do know the trans has to come apart to change that out, right? And why wouldn't you just get another trans, far less work unless you are building something custom?

EGR code is for the operation of hte vacuum solenoid that opens and closes to prevent EGR operation before warm up. (the computer can't really tell if the EGR valve itself is open or closed, not an electrical item) So, find the solenoid on the under side of the manifold. Make sure it is plugged in, and then test it for resistance through. Also put 12v to it and see if opens and closes. Test by blowing through it. The O2 code likely just means you're o2 needs replaced. The misfire code will probably go away with new plugs and wires.

Nah...... you can put the OB struts on and not worry about the blocks, or control and trailing arm mounts, You get more clearance. (the control arm mounts, trailing arm mounts, and trans crossmember are spaced down 1-1/4 inch to match the main crossmember blocks) Now If you were to then also add strut top blocks or run taller springs like King/Scorpion, you might be pushing it. Crossmember blocks would then be good to consider. But again with stock springs you can put the OB struts right on.

2 words. Lock Switch It is probably just really worn clutches. Happens. Try 1st gear starts, is it the same? Also fresh good fluid could help. If you just want quick dirty 4wd, a switch on the C solenoid wire to disconnect it will send full pressure to the clutches and lock even worn ones.

Move it up to the bell housing hole. I did that with an Outback recently, and the CEL hasn't come on once in 6 months since.

I've been researching a similar idea. The biggest obstacle I can see is that the Pinion shaft on the Fulltime boxes(and newer AWD) boxes is WAY fatter. So is the bearing. Makes sense since it is actual 2 shafts, one hollow, and the other inside it. So the case halves would need to be swapped. Which would only work if you're fulltime box was from an RX ie. Dual range. And if that was the case, it would be easier just to swap the 1.59 low range gears and leave the rest of the Fulltime box alone. No way to get 3.9 OR...... the D/R box machined to accept the larger bearing (this is what I intend to do)