Gloyale

You could rule out electreical by just unplugging the harne for the trans and going for a drive. The trans should function by hydraulic pressure alone at that point.

Get you're car back and tart going through the possibilities 1 by 1. Test the CTS for resistance. Check the Intake boot for any cracks Shop around for a Knock sensor. You're 87 should be a hotwire style MAF. And hence a single pole Knock sensor(later style) which are much easier to find. Could be poor contact somewhere in the harness too. Have faith, I've been there with a EA82T before. The damn thing had me so cornfued, and I thought it was an ECU too. Turned out it was a few corroded contacts and a loose rotor screw. Even if it is an ECU issue(which I doubt, they seldom go bad, but it does happen), that's not very hard to fix. I'll bet someone here on the board has one to sell. Or Search the forum for the threads cougar mentioned, where members where actually able to track down the blown capacitor on the board and fix the ECU itself for about 2 dollars.

First, how well do you trust this mechanic. You drove the car there right? Now it doesn't work, so you give him more money? That is the stupid move. Buying the Subaru from 600 miles away sight unseen is not the wisest move, unless you are already an "expert" on them and can troubleshoot anythig. I bought my 89 turbo wagon from 2000 miles away. I Also showed up to get it, armed with tools, An 89 FSM, and a 100 pound box of parts. Sounds like he plugged in the test connectors and left them that way. I wouldn't trust him If he's not VERY familiar with Subarus, espescially the EA82T Oh yeah, and for surfing in Mexico, I think we all told you that the EA82T wa the one engine to stay away from(it's a great engine, but needs attention after years of neglect). You need to get an SPFI GL or loyale, or a legacy.

To remove the cone washer, get a nice stout flathead screwdriver. Wedge it into the gap on the cone washer and hammer it in. This spreads the cone and pops it out. To pull that drum off use a 3 jawed puller. You aren't going to break anything you'll still need.

Yup

So a rack from a 95-99 outback should fit?(these are more common in the J-yard, and a bit newer than the worn out 1st gen Legs.) It won't have longer inner tierods? I wouldn't think so, but...

If you're doing a disc comversion, you need to take the whole drum backing plate off. Don't even waste time taking out the adjuster.

Use a slim punch to drive the nut counterclockwise.

I have a 93 legacy that needs a steering rack. Junk yards say only 92-93 rack will fit. I believe many others will "fit" but may have different ratios or assist level specs. What are my choices?

I'm telling ya every other mechanic diagnosed the car I mentioned before as needing headgaskets. It had excactly the same symptoms as the car in question. Including coolant being push out hte overflow. It pushed water out the bottle and had exccessive pressure in the top radiator hose espescially. I doubted that diagnosis, but was at the point of begining to agree after rulling out EVERYTHING else..........Except the radiator. "It's following right? We flushed it? It's gotta be OK" I kept telling my partner. Finally the rad blew a leak and we replaced it. Cut the old one apart and it barely trickled through a couple tubes. Zero problems since.

OK. Thanks. I figured that's where the Solenoid would be, but does it have a relay as well?

I believe, in the U.S., the last year and model with Part time 4wd was the 94 Loyale(basically a SPFI GL, with pushbutton Single range). Legacies were introduced in 90 and came in either 2wd only or AWD, no part time. Imprezas started in 93, and same thing 2wd or AWD models, but no part time. In 96, AWD was made standard for all U.S. models Many around here say the best year/model for wheelin is an 88-89 GL, with D/R and SPFI. "touring wagon" models from 89 are espescially sweet(taller roof) The ultimate 4wd subies are probably the 80-89 EA81 Hatchbacks. Short wheel base, pushrod motor, lot's of lift options.

BumP

Not always. Remember he says the car still runs. So perhaps it is a 1 or 2 tooth slip at the crankpulley.

Sounds like a clogged radiator. We had a 93 here that had persistant overheating issues. Replaced everything, water pump, thermostat, hoses, CTS. Finally the radiator blew a hole in the bottom. Replaced it. No more problems. Cut the end cap off the old radiator. Openings look fine, not clogged. Ran fluid through it, only trickled through at the top and bottom edges. THe whole middle of the Rad. was clogged, but showed no signs of total blockage. Just didn't have adequate flow or surface area anymore. Try a new radiator. And make sure you've got a good water pump and timing belt(read: get new ones if you haven't recently)

Sounds to me like a slipped timing belt. Causing valves to be open during the compression stroke, hence low compression values. That's the ONLY case I've ever seen low compression on every cylinder in anything. I really would have an independant at least take off the timing covers and verify valve timing first.

Where are the relay and solenoid for the shift lockout on 93 legacy? The ones that prevents shifting unless brake pedal is pressed.

Check out this. I've seen the car here in town, and it is spotless, with about 44K on the clock. Listed on Craigslist, (I know I Know), but it's actually at the local Subaru Dealership. http://corvallis.craigslist.org/car/494795009.html

EJs don't have coolant flowing through the intake. They use a seperate coolant crossover that bolts onto the top of the block. Intake gasket leak on a EJ would just cause high idle and/or stumbling and dying.

89,90,91 Legacys have the original style of light/fenders/markers/bumpers. Slightly angular 92-94 are mechanically identical, but have a different front end. Very smooth and rounded(best looking Legacies;) me thinks) You could swap any of the parts from one to the other. But unless you swap the WHOLE front end the mismatched stuff won't line up right. And the corner markers are totally different, you'd have to rewire for the differences

I can't understand why it would need replaced? No Power so it can't be leaking. I'd just change the inner and outer tierods. Then if there is any play in the rack, it will just show as wheel play but at least the 2 wheels will be fixed to each other relatively and could be aligned. New ball joints may be needed to. I think the struts would have to be pretty bad before it would be impossible to align, but wouldn't hurt.

NO, keep trying. If you are going to have the car for any time, you will need to change the Distributor cap again anyhow. Disty cap for an 88-91 XT 4cyl will be the same. Not all parts are the same but in the case of the cap it may help you get the right one. Why not take you old cap in with you when you go to match it up? here is a link to Thepartsbin.com search for an 88 GL-10 turbo http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/products.php?year=1988&make_text=subaru&model_text=gl-10&category=engine_electrical&subcategory=ignition_distributor&sort=0&limit=0&price_range=&brand_name=&uni=1&part_name=distributor_cap

I think he's gone a little beyond unsoftened truth. To insulting speculative opinions

+1 Ebay and Craigslist are not good indicators of the value of WELL MAINTAINED or RECONDITIONED cars. Craigslist espescially is the worst. It's free, so all the cheapest fools with the crappiest crap post on there. When I buy and resell a car, I put a lot intop making it good before I sell it. I make the car mechanically sound and looks good. Including detailing and minor body work. When I'm done, I want top dollar. The next owner will be happy with the car for a good long time, and won't have to spend money on repairs right away. I don't list it on craigs list. The buyers all seem to think you want to give it away LOL. And all the other "Comparable" cars listed make mine look expensive. But when you actaully look at the car and drive it you know why I want $1800 instead of $800. And why it' a better deal (cause most people pay for repairs not do them themselves) But, $7000, for a GL is way too much.

IIRC, SPFI caps are the same Might try having them look it up as 90 XT 4cyl.