Gloyale

There is usually a section of any chain auto parts store that has the "HELP" line of products. You know in the red packets. They have a generic "foreign car" stud kit that comes with 2, 10x1.25 studs

Automatic transmision cooler line. Available in small diameter and heat resitant.

You certainly will not make 200-250 HP out of an EA81 without ALOT of modification and some type of supercharging. Sorry to say.

Bolted to the drivers side kickpanel, near the hood release is the revolution sensor. I had a bad one blowing this same fuse once. Has six pole connection and a Mitsubishi looking 3 diamond logo on it. It won't allow power to the fuel pump, anti diesel soenoid, and auto choke heater to have power unless it senses ignition pulse.

There is no "neutral" in the Dual range. Subaru Literature, (and even the sticker under the shifter) say "do not to leave selector between Hi and LO" There is a spot in the levers action where it isn't quite in either range but that is not neutral. Besides, doing so would not have any affect at all in a towing situation because those gears are forward of the gearbox, on the input shaft. Which will be doing absolutely nothing while towing. Just put the gearshifter in Neutral. As long as the center diff is unlocked you should be fine, for a short distance. For a longer tow I would pull the rear section of the center driveline

Accelerator pump on the carb? easy to replace without rebuilding the whole damn thing.

AWD 4EAT automatic with "C" solenoid switch(locked center) Best of all worlds, not the easiest conversion though

Only the Turbo, 4EAT equiped cars had the 2 row radiator according to subaru literature. However, I bought a 88 Turbo GL, 4EAT, that only has a single core radiator. It cools fine. I towed a 2000 Lb trailer 2000 miles this summer in 100 degree heat, over mountains. In fact it over cools slightly, but that's probably a thermostat issue.

88 GL wagon will be SPFI(87 last year carbed) Transmission could be either a pushbutton single range 4wd, or Dual range lever action 4wd. Both where available in 88 and you could order either.

While it's a fairly simple swap, It's way more work than changing shoes and drums on an old Drum set-up. You'd need calipers, rotors, hubs, and backing plates from a disc brake car. Figure the rotors you can get new and the calipers are easy to find new too(although spendy, about $75 a piece) Then you have to take it all apart, hope your brake lines aren't rusty, and bend the lines to match the disk brake fittings. Seems to me the disk swap would cost minimum of $200, and waaaayyyy more to have a shop do it(which they probably won't because of liability) Who ever was gonna charge 160+80 for drums was overcharging you, at least for the drums. But even that would be easier and probably cheaper than the disk swap. New drums or used ones with enough meat to turn should be 50 bucks, tops, after turning. Changing pads on these old drum set-ups, another $50 to $75,....maybe. That's 125 bucks for the whole job. Unless you are REALLY looking for performance from you're 25 year old economy car, I would go the easy and simple route and get new pads and drums. The adjuster should work fine then. Just don't forget to back out the adjuster before installing the shoes and drum.

+1 for tapping the hole directly with 7/16 threads. 7/16 studs are easy to find and cheap, and this leaves the helicoil option for later. Rotating the flange works too, but I wouldn't do it unless I was welding new exhaust anyhow.

Sounds like you should invest in some aluminum welding equipment. Or Find a good welder experienced in welding alloy heads. Personally, I've gotten alot of miles out of engines with this kind of crack just adding a little coolant every week. As long as it doesn't overheat, there's no real problem other than the smoke. I suppose if those cracks were big and dumping lots of coolant, it could affect the turbo, but it hasn't seemed to on mine.

A momentary sucking sound when switching HVAC controls is nnormal. It is only if you hear a continual hiss that there is a leak. I agree that every vac hose on a 20 year old car should be replaced. BUT.....make sure to check the diagrahms, and in the hoses themselves for "orifice" plugs. They are little metal pellets in the vaccum lines, that resrtict, or meter the vacuum to certain parts of the system. They must be pulled form the old vac line and inserted into the new hose.

If it was only smoking on start up for a while then probably the cracks are causing it. If you had thick consistent white smoke that continued and got worse the longer you run it, and rising temperatures, then you likely have a blown head gasket(have you pulled both heads?) If you really want to have them fixed they can be welded. It may not be nessescary. These cracks don't always go deep enough to leak, and sometimes the crack turns away from the jacket and misses it entirely. Can you post any pictures? And what are you're long term intentions for the car? That could affect what approach you need to take.

Only true for 2wds. Any 4wd EA82 clutch set will work.

I've got that picture in my album. But it is smaller than the one on PB. But got to my album and it's there.

no the valves do not need to come out. Like I said, the BTV(between the valves) cracks are normal, and unless the are gnarly, they should not cause problems. The photo I posted is the view looking into the exhaust port. Bottom side of the head, where the exhaust pipe bolts on. Look down inside, there is a wall that spans across the middle of the port. Examine the ends of that wall, where it curves out and blends into the port. That is where you are looking for cracks. Tiny, tiny hairlines, may not extend into the coolant jacket. But if they are bigger they are likely going to be leaking coolant. I'll try to post a pic of a disected one soon.

The cracks between the valves 99% are not a problem. I would not bother trying to repair those cracks unless you have an unlimited budget. These are the cracks you really need. to worry about These cracks are common in the turbo heads, and WILL leak coolant directly into the exhaust. If the cracks are there and all the way through you will have smoking on start up and a consistent loss of coolant. These cracks can be welded up pretty easily by an experienced aluminum welder. I paid $60 to have a head welded recently. Again, don't be surprised to find cracks between the valves of every cylinder, both heads. Those are, uhhh,.... normal? well common and known to not be an issue generally. There has even been a service bulletin from subaru about it.

I think we feel you're pain and want to see Rocky, the XBEE6 finally solved and running right. Might I suggest some in depth wiring checking. One common problem with these cars wiring is the splices. Places in the harness where multiple wires are crimped toghether. There are several of them in the ECU harness. A few of them are under the carpet, and subject to moisture. Clean and solder them and they should be fine again. Just a hunch. Pull out the seats and carpet to expose all the harnesses. I'm just getting settled into my new house, I'll dig out FSMs soon and try to scan some more specific info.

Early 80s Jaguar XJS(type III) uses a very similar switch type TPS. May even be JECS, I can't recall. But IIRC it rotates the correct direction.

That's not a very "nice" thing to say. He's trying to chill out. And besides he's ussually right(mostly) espescially with EA81. Read old posts and you'll see I've been frustrated with him too but you gotta respect. And have a tough skin.

The hole for the throttle shaft in the TPS goes all the way through. Pry off the plastic case, drill a hole big enough for the throttle shaft to come through. Drill holes on the mounting tabs a little narrower to match the spider intake TB bolt holes. Make spacer sleeves for the mounting bolts, and mount it "up side down"(plastic towards TB). I haven't actually run a car like this but I mocked up the setup on the bench and it seemed like it would work well.

I don't have any literature to support it, but I did notice recently that the 2 crossover pieces I have in the back are different sized. About excactly the amount you describe. I thought perhaps a year model change. But now that you mention it, the bigger one is from an XT and the smaller pipe from a Wagon.

Correct about diagonal brakes. However Subaru actually says to bleed in this order LF/RR RF/LR

Happy thanksgiving to you too. Hope you get you're spfi conversion done. Everyone with an carbed EA should do it(looking forward to converting my 84) Sorry to do it but I gotta point out though no O2 sensor= no feedback. There were not any EA82 4x4 models sold for the 49 states or canada with feedback carbs. I figured if you really started looking for you're o2 or you're ECU youd realize you have a conventional hitachi.