Gloyale

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: One of the freeze plugs in the head must have popped, allowing coolant into the oil. I'd say that you need to ditch that motor unless you are going to rebuild it completely. The crank bearings have probably been destroyed

The light activates after 60,000 miles to tell you to check/clean the EGR valve. You need to reset the light. up under the dash, way up against the side wall, drivers side, you should be able to see 3 connectors, blue I think. Tkae the 2 connected toghether, unhook them and plug into the unused connector. this resets for another 60,000 miles,

I agree. Unless you have kids, the rear seatbelt is not too critical.(unless you got passengers) I'd clean it up as good as possible, and patch in new metal/glass(probably a combination of both would be good) I just parted out an 86 that was still driving fine and standing solid, and it had Waaaaayy... more rust than that. I would however adjust you're mindset to the fact that neither of you're Soobs are really fit to live forever. The damage has already been done. They don't call it cancerous rust for nothing. The salt gets into every crevice and will continue to rust the body out. Unless you could cut out every single bit of rust, thoughrouly wash all nooks and crannies of silt and road grime, repaint everything, and then never drive him in an east coast winter ever again. Barring that, just keep the structure solid and the elements out, and focus you're attention on keeping them running good. Cars are kinda like dogs. You grow to love them like family. They become friends and you love them. But never the less you will outlive you're dog, and no amount of love will change that. 99.9% of us will outlive our Subaru's. You just have to enjoy the time you have and keep him as healthy as you can for his time. Eventually you'll have to let him go. (or get a rust free body to transplant him into)

Or in contrast there is my lowered Soob. Can't get any lower

If you're going to remove the pistons and split the case, you might as well put new rings in too.

This for sure means it's you're ignition switch. If you run a button directly make sure to put an inline fuse at the start of it. The key just needs to be turned to *on* and then press the button. Use a button not an on/off switch.

I had a GL-10 once that had a weird alternator issue. When you turned the key to *on*, but not started, the lights(CHRG/STOP/BK.FL) would not come on(like they should, normal for Stop/Brake to appear with the CHRG). Then with the car started the lights would be dimmly on at idle, and gradually come on more and more with prolonged driving. Eventually without enough juice to run even the digidash, and car would die. If however, before I started the car I adjusted the mounting bolt and /or hammered on the alternator with a lug wrench, the Dash lights(charge,Brake,Stop lamp) all came on and the car would charge lights off whole driving. Alternator tested good. Weird right? Grounding issue of the Alt? bad Connections? so I replaced the connectors and a few inches of new wire. Filed and ground the Alt mounts till shiny bare metal to metal. Replaced battery cables. still the same. Gotta either whack it or turn the 12m bolt a bit to get the lights before start up. Moral of the story. It was the Alternator. Bad contact internally causing the *come n go* failures. Replaced it and the Battery and it was all good. So I'd say you could try and check clean and replace as nessecary any alternator and battery connections. cut away and Solder in new wire the last 6 inches or so going to the alternator. But if that doesn't work, other than that I'd say replace battery and Alternator. I always replace both at the same time because a bad battery will kill a new alternator and vice/versa

Right, but if you increase the size of that gap you don't need to rotate it to such an extreme degree. I'm sure when I did it it was on jackstands, but not crazy high at all. Just for convience to lay underneath. edit: IIRC i had the oil pan off for a reseal at the same time(since I was lifting the engine), so this may be the reason I did't have issues

Seriously, Talk to SOA about this. I doubt they would be happy to here the dealer managers advice and basically refusal to order available parts. Gauranteed they will send him a bulletin reminding him of Subarus Customer Satisfaction policies.

I've used the the PH3682 for years. never had a problem. I may switch after reading this thread. But I've put over 100,000 miles on Fram filters in EA82s and never had an oil related problem. Same filter on my wifes Nissan Altima, no problems. I wouldn't lose sleep

YEAH!!! THAT'S RIGHT!!!! You want to see a manager or this little Conneticut towns gonna be overrun with frenzied EA82 owners pitch forks in hand:headbang: New Milford Subaru!!!!!!

I think he means the tail lights, as well as the front marker lights. There is a tail light relay. Blue connector, I'm assuming under dash. It get's power from the fusible link and supplies power to fuse 7 in the box. Check both of the fuses and the links. The *passing switch*(that's what the FSM calls it) switch is suppllied with power from fuse 4, so it would work even when the other circuit has blown a fuse/link/relay, etc.

Call SOA and complain about poor service. Subaru touts there cars longevity in there ad campaigns. Make them back it up. That's just lazy on the dealer counter persons part, it's just the looking up the part in a book that takes time. "ordering it" is the same wait as any other part. Those Conneticut dealers are to used to rich snobs leasing a new car every 2 years. You're not asking them to do anything that hundreds of other dealers around the country don't. I could see them complaining about working on the old ones, but just looking up a number and going "click" is not that hard. I order all my parts from an Oregon dealer. They are happy to take a credit card payment and ship the items to me. Bucky, maybe you should try that? John and Phils in Corvallis OR. has always been great. They also stock a selection of quality aftermarket stuff for older soobs. Stuff that's getting hard (and expensive) to get from Subaru, but top quality and good price(t-belts, Idlers, seals. They use these parts in there service dept for older Subarus)

I think on a perfectly sealed, new carb, it works to make a fine adjustment to match the carb to the engine,fuel ratio wise. But when these carbs get old they get leaks around the throttle shaft bushing. This is has a big affect on the mixture, and the screw isn't designed to compenstate for such a big change. It just doesn't have the range. Bowl vent. Well the bowl vent vaccum valve is (or was) clipped onto the upper drivers side of the air cleaner. One hose goes to vent on carb, the other goes to the vented solenoid, mounted on the intake, near the air temp switch. The solenoid is supplied with vaccum form the intake, with a check valve in it before the solenoid. Now there is also the air control vaccum valve. Similar looking to the bowl vent, but with 4 hoses and a cap on the 5th. Mounted to a bracket very near the thermostat housing, under the aircleaner a bit. The bottom/thinnest tube be T'd into the same line from the solenoid just mentioned. 2 larger lines going into the sides should be coming from near the base of the carb and returning there. The line straight out the top goes to the aircleaner. The same vaccum line that supplies vac to the carb choke pulloff and the secondary diagphrams, should T and have a line going up to the aircleaner to the idle compensator (note the small orifice plug needed in this line) There are several other systems (anti afterburn, EGR, Intake air temp control) that are all vacuum dependant. Hard to say what effects removing some or all systems had. As for running rich I'm sure vaccum issues are to blame, but I think you're rough idle may just be plugwires.

I must say that cornfused me for a while. I could not figure why pin 47 would output 12v. It must be an integrated circuit/555 timer type circuit. Voltage is driven high when no fuel is to be pumped and then dropped (completeing ground) to activate pump. It's a bit like using a stream of water flowing in one direction to stop a stream of water flowing in the other.

Try replacing the wires, cap, and rotor as well. The mixture screw is dead center bottom of carb, capped by a rubbery plug. You have to dig out the material before you can see the screw. Clockwise=lean, couterclockwise=rich. Doesn't help much if any from my experience. Once you ditch the vaccum setups on these carbs you are shooting in the dark as they were designed with a fair amount of vaccuum regulated items in the system. Probably running rich because of the bowl vent being scewed up with no vaccum to control it.

Coolant tempature sensor. Probably a bad connection or just a bad sensor. Classic symptoms. Here's a tip. The sensor for the SPFI models is $75 bucks. The one for the MPFI(turbo) models is about $25 bucks. The only difference is the connection. The SPFI has 2 wires and a plug. The MPFI has pins right on it and uses a standard old Bosch/JECS Fuel Injector connector.(available new on ebay or in good imort shops) Switch connectors and save $50 bucks. Note I'm refering to the 2 wire, ECU temp sensor, not the one for the gauge with just a single wire/tab. You can test the one you've got. IIRC Cold it should have 2-3k ohms. At running temp should be less than 100 ohms.

That's really sweet man. Niice job

It was just a guess. But hey, glad that was the problem. I'd still love to see you're Suby sometime, I've never spotted it. What year and color?

So would having doors that aren't crushed and beaten for no reason.

Why is everyone talking about lifting the whole car up? just for access under the car? To remove/install the crossover pipe, you have to unbolt the 2 engine mount bolts on bottom of crossmember. unbolt the pitch stopper above the trans then Lift the Engine Either with a jack from underneath with a wood block on the pan. or lift from above with a hoist. But just lifting the car doesn't give you any more clearance between engine and crossmember. Unless you're lifting the whole car by the oilpan? that would be bad, a sure way to overstress and tear the rubber engine mounts

Why is everyone talking about lifting the whole car up? just for access under the car? To remove/install the crossover pipe, you have to unbolt the 2 engine mount bolts on bottom of crossmember. unbolt the pitch stopper above the trans then Lift the Engine Either with a jack from underneath with a wood block on the pan. or lift from above with a hoist. But just lifting the car doesn't give you any more clearance between engine and crossmember. Unless you're lifting the whole car by the oilpan? that would be bad, a sure way to overstress and tear the rubber engine mounts

I've never had a problem with a single row radiator. I'm not sure why but even my 89 turbo GL/ 4EAT auto has a single row radiator in it. Someone must have swapped it before I got it. But it works fine, even overcools in the winter here in Wisconsin. Summer at 100 degrees with AC on temp stays right in the middle. Everyone always says these cars are so problematic with the cooling system, but I've never had problems in any of my EA82s. I always flush and change all hoses and t-stat upon acquiring a new one. Perhaps that why no problems?

I just feel so sorry and sad for all the thousands of Subaru owners who took there cars to a shop for headgaskets, and got told by the inexperienced(with EA82's) shop that they need new heads. To the tune of $600 dollars. I've had machine shops refuse to touch the heads because of those cracks, even though they are fine. It's sad. But just consider those cracks as normal and don't worry. 100% of the EA82s I've taken apart had cracks there. Meaning that nearly every EA82 on the road has them.

Yeah, it's important to remember that these engines are flat. So the hoses on top are nearly the top of the water column in the engine. When they leak, often it isn't a drip of liquid, it's a spray of steam. Usually not occurring until the engine is very warm. For about $20 you can replace all of the coolant hoses(including the small ones to the carb base/throttlebody base) Well worth the investment.