Gloyale

After I posted this I found some more specific diagrahms. Beware buying rear wheel bearings though. It appears the auto parts stores, or some anyhow, don't show a difference.

No, it doesn't. The only signals from outside of the trans that the TCU needs are the Throttle Position Sensor signals. The wiring from the TPS splits and runs parallel to both the ECU and TCU. There is no "communication" between the 2. TYhe problem must be something else. It could be the Neutral switch?

I get conflicting info from parts catalogs as to whether 2wd and AWD rear bearings are the same for a 93 Legacy. Can anybody answer this?

Yes, that works fine. I had the same problem once and removed the rear section of the driveline for a temp fix.

NO. This is you're oil pump. The heart of you're engine. You could probably bump up a size in bolts rather than helicoil. But the threads need to be fixed. You shouldn't have to pull the engine for this. Pull the radiator for room if you need it. Just curiousity, did you clean the threads of the bolts and the holes before reinstalling? It's very important to chase out the threads with a tap before reassembly on any of these engines critical bolts. I wouldn't use a ft/lb torque wrench on these small bolts either. ft/lb wrenches aren't able to be accurate at that low of a scale. You'd be better off with hand tightening with a 3/8 socket til *snug*. Or an in/lb wrench if you've got one.

I ran into the same problem on my 86 GL-10 turbo wagon. This car was rusted to swiss cheese, and had terrible compression. I was beating it into the ground as a pizza delivery vehicle. There was no way in hell this car could reach 90 mph, let alone 120. But the turbo models had been speced from Subaru with H-rated tires. The store tried to give me some crap about suspension geometry being different, and needing the stiffer sidewalls and such. But knowing Subarus I know that aside form a small spring rate difference the car is identical to the non-turbos. They just saw a chance to strong arm me into buying $85 a piece tires. They used the Ford/Firestone thing as reason. I went home and put the car on Jack stands and took in just the wheels to a different store. I told them it was for a non turbo car and had them mount up my new $38 tires

Those would bolt on to my 93 Legacy? I really just need to replce worn rear bearings. I don't need to upgrade. 100 plus shipping would put me very close to the price of installing brand new bearings.

If it was the linkage, I would think other gears would be hard to get as well. But it could still. The linkage trnasfers the "push" over to the right for 5th and reverse into a rotational movement of the actuator. If the linkage is loose(worn bushing, broken rear mount) it could be just enough to not get reverse. Another option is that the reverse check mechanism (cylinder on the left rear side of trans) has something screwed up in it. This actually seems like the likely candidtate the more I think about it. Yeah the XT trans is a driect swap, as long as it's from a non-turbo. If it's from a turbo you would need to swap the axles and rear diff as well. (i've though about this option actually for gas milage reasons, taller 3.7 gears in the turbo trans)

I think yuo have a bad diode in the Alternator/voltage regulator. The wipers running with the switch off is a dead giveaway that there is AC voltage.

I can't think of anything in the tirewell that needs to be removed. It's really straight forward. First I usually pull the radiator. Then I unbolt the alternator, A/C compressor and Power steering pump. You have to take the pulley off the PS pump to get it off it's mount. Stick a socket through one of the holes in the PS pump pulley onto the bolt heads behind it, that way the pump won't spin and use a 19mm wrench to take the nut off the pulley. Once you've unbolted the pump, get the 2 10mm bolts holing the lines to the front and side of the motor. Now you can fold the pump and lines up into the spare tire area without disconnecting it. Same with the AC compressor. Now it's time to remove the Intake. 3 bolts hold it to the heads on each side. These are often the toughest bolts, Use some PB blaster or other oil to loosen them. I'd soak them for a day or two first. There is also an EGR tube coming out of the top of Pass side head. Unbolt it's flange form the Intake. Now the intake can be lifted off. Don't froget to remove and cap the Gas line and label the few Vac lines you have ot unplug.(most of them can stay in place on the intake). Remove the distributor. Now you should be looking at the bare longblock. First remove the valve covers. A 10mm wratcheting wrench is your best friend for this task. It's a tight fit between the frame rails, espescially for the 5th/rear bolt of the drivers side cover. Now remove the timing belt covers, and the timing belts. Remove the rear cover pieces as well as they need to come out to seperate the Camcase/head/block. The Cam pulleys have to come off to get at the cover bolts. There is a flat spot in the middle of the now exposed camshafts. Use a wrench on those flats to keep the cam from spinning while you remove the 3 pulley bolts. From here it's all self evident. Eight 12mm bolts hold the cam cases on. Be careful, when you remove the Cam case the rockers will fall off. If you're very dexterous you can hold them with fingers. I ussually hold at least the middle 2 and I put cardboard down so if others fall they don't get nicked on concrete(or dirty in gravel, depending on where you're working) Now you're ready for the heads. Make sure you've unbolted the exhsaust first. Then it's nine 17mm bolts to get the heads off. Assembly is reverse with a few notes: There is a small o-ring between the head and the Cam case. A new one MUST be installed during reassembly. The Cam Case just gets a bead of RTV (grey) to seal it, but, DO NOT use any RTV sealant on the O-ring, a small dab of engine assembly grease will keep it in place for installation if nesscesary. Use engine assembly grease to hold the rockers to the HLAs for install. To make reinstalling the Cams cases eaiser, rotate the motor till it's lined up on the 3 little marks. Before installing rotate the Cam so the locator dowel is straight up. This will place the Cam at a position where none of the lobes are pushing on a rockers as you bolt it down. If the spacer/washer pieces from the rear cam case portions get lost or are broken, heres a trick. Use the old grommets from the valve cover bolts as a replacement. This is assuming you bought new valve cover gaskets/grommets.

Do you mean it's a Part time 4wd. If it isn't turbo it won't be an AWD. In 89 it wouldn't be a Loyale either. At any rate it could be a big thing or a little one. COuld be that the intrernal linkage is bent, or it could be as easy as a bad/loose shifter linkage.

There is no adjustment for the valvetrain of the EA82. You either have good HLAs and Rockers or it's bad. I'd try getting some new HLAs, rockers and a new cam. If it was run with a lifter cockeyed then it surely mared the cam lobe.

This is true of the manually adjustable(w/wrench) Struts on the 4wd 85,86s The air adjustable height(w/button) suspension was offered until 89 and was optional on all models I believe. Not standard on GL-10s

GL-10s have Power everything, digital dash, trip computer, cruise control, and upgraded interior cloth. Pretty much across the board. Every one I've ever seen has a sunroof.

Yeah he's in the bay area. I can just see a Loyale poised at a stop sign at the top of one of those San Fransisco hills on a wet winter day, just lightin' em um trying to get going.

The "help" products isle of the auto parts store. No need to get an old crusty one, they are a fairly generic and universal part.

That link shows 3 bearings for a dodge stealth. And they are all $40 bucks? what are you talking about. When I've bought bearings from the dealer before they were about 50 for both at each wheel. Are the $8 ones an Ebay item? Are you looking at the seal? Edit in red: Duh, cookies on my putre from a previous search BTW what year/model are we talking about here?

Yeah, see, I don't want hubs from around here cuase of the salted roads.

Did you test those thermoswitches for continuity? Boil them? Mine was not working and it turned out to be from por connection at the plug from harness to the switch. The harness side holds the female portion of the connection. I had to carefully remove the wires from the connector, clean and crimp, and then reinstall now it works great. I have seen the thermoswitches actually go bad too. Just a few thoughts.

The 89 3 point system has shoulder belts that come over the back seat and have to be clipped to the lap belt. Kinda like old american 2 doors that had the belt clipped up to the roof, then you had to pull it down an attach it to the lap belt. Except on a Suby they are bolted on near the cargo cover mount. Maybe someone removed them? they do get in the way of folding the rear seats up and down. The Shoulder belt mounting point is present even on the older GLs so retrofitting is possible. Loyales(90-94) have a 3 point system that bolts in to the roof rail, and is all one piece with the lap belt. Sadly there is no mounting point on the older cars to retrofit this style to the GLs.

Check to see if Pin 19 of ECU is outputting 12v. The ECU shuold not need to be bolted down, as it is grounded through wires to several of it's pins. Those pins are grounded at the Intake. Are both of the wires to ground on the intake bolted on? wires going to the following pins should all have ground. 30 Br 35 B 42 Br 44 Br 50 By 51 By

Just make sure to drain and refill that Diff. Theres a big plug right in the bottom of it for draining. That ATF won't hurt it at all, but you don't want to run like that.

Only one way to know. But most of it should still work. Might want to remove the throttle body and clean it out first before installing it. Don't forget to get the airbox w/ MAF, distributor and coil, the whole harness(or at least the whole engine bay part), the ECU(with wires), and the Fuel Pump. If it's an 89 2wd with Automatic Seatbelts, Make sure to get the "rev sensor" box. It's mounted near the ECU, Black, 6 wires. Or you can try to eliminate it in the harness when you do the swap.

88 and 89 would be the best years to find. They will have the Fuel injected engine which is more powerful and gets better milage. It's argueably more reliable too. 85-87 many of them where carbuerated. 89 there was a "touring wagon" model made with a 3 " higher roof and 89 will have 3 point seatbelts for the rear passengers. Of course the old ones are great too and have there advantages. 85,86 4wds had adjustable suspension that allowed it to sit pretty tall. But those struts are almost impossible to find for replacements, and most are worn out by now. So you could sit high but with crappy struts. I personally would stay away from 87's. Thats my Suberstition. It was however a "changeover" year with an odd match of old and new style parts.

The fan should operate at about 205 degrees. This will be about halfway up on the temp gauge. The gauges vary quite abit. I've tested different ones using the same resistor and gotten different readings. Check the connector at hot idleing by wiggling it and see if the fan comes on at all then. I had that problem with mine. Had to pull apart the plug and clean and crimp it a bit. But if the fan isn't coming on even by wiggling by 2/3rds then the switch is bad. Check it for sure by boiling it in water and testing the resistance with an Ohmmeter. If it is still infinite resistance(open circuit)at boiling it's definately bad.