Gloyale

Liquid nails. In the flooring and paneling adhesive section

Obviously not. I done headgaskets on lots of Soobs.

Hpoefully you don't have any oil leaks on that exhaust or you're have *smoked* dinner:Flame:

The 4 headlight style isn't nesscesarily older but from a ultra base model. The DL It had no power doors/locks, no split rear seat, no tach, volt,or oil gauge and the 4 headlight front end. Someone may have added the light set up to this car? or it may actually be a DL? Or it may be some Canada model option GL:confused: . Many, including myself think they are better from both a brightness and ease/cost of replacement standpoints.

good answer:lol: Well this lot has EA82 T-belt tensioners and idler gear, and 2 new EA71?81? water pumps too. And I've had no problems with E-bay gaskets, even cheap ones. I've used four or five sets of various makers. from ebay sellers. Some of the cheap ones appeared identical to OEM subaru gaskets, logo and part number and all. There just car parts, you will get what you pay for to an extent, but the *ebay* doesn't leave a ghostly tainted OMG there gonna be bad residue. They work fine no matter where you buy them. Just check feedback:headbang: I've put up the link. Can anyone ID?

So if you did it all right and it ripped out, why would filling it up with aluminum and retapping help? Something must not have been done right. Rather I suggest trying again with the tap. And if need be, using a helicoil kit. It will be stronger than the original if done right With good gaskets and properly seated studs, tightening to torque will work. There are to many people who have had no problem fixing this for it not to be true. Sure you used a 7/16 tap with either fine or course thread to match the studs you used? If it's stripped out to muchfor that move up to M12.might be harder to find studs but you could cut bolts or just use bolts:( How tight is "not cranked"? 19-22 ft-lbs is the spec.And are you using new gaskets?

Most need about 10 degrees extra in the end. Just a few need more and not more than about 45-60 degrees more, 1/8 to 1/6th of a turn. Using a calibrated click type torque wrench.

What type of headgaskets are these listed in this Ebay ad? They look like EA71's or 81's to me. If they were Legacy HGs I would maybe want them. But I think all that stuff is old EA items. Somebody should snag this stuffhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Parts-Lot-W-P-Head-Gaskets-Pulleys-Loyale-Legac_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ40019QQihZ009QQitemZ190117770954QQrdZ1

Welcome to the board! And that is a Sweet RX for the rust belt indeed. I'm over cross the lake in WI. At least for a few more months. If you have a need for any parts or advice give me a PM. Also I just got a 2nd set of 89 FSMs so if you want a set I've got em. PM me for price If you ever just need something looked up let me know. That's free:)

That's great that they were from a FWD car.

To fix it right, I think that outer piece of the pillar needs to be removed and replaced. It'd take drilling out spot welds and making a few cuts. Weld(or have welded) the new piece and repaint. If you're not concerned about a "professional" fix, I'd say try to spot weld pins to it and pull it back into shape using a slide hammer. But looking at it, I see it has alot of tigh folds and ridges that hold the molding. It would be hard to straighten that 100%, but maybe enough to get the window to seal though?

Tap the hole with a 7/16 tap. Drill it to size before tapping since you added JB, but in most cases you can tap the stripped hole directly. Just use lots of oil and tap it slow. Don't push once the tap bottoms or you''ll rip out you're new threads. Install a 7/16 exhaust stud with Blue locktite. Get a 7/16 nut and washer and bolt er up. If you really want to stick to the OEM Metric size stud then the option is to drill out the hole and helicoil it. The 7/16 stud can be installed with the manifold in place, for the cost of a tap, a stud, and a nut. The helicoil kit will run you 35 bucks and you have to remove the crossover pipe to do it.(or drill out the flange holes,either is a PITA) There is a thread about this where variations of the same method are used. Search "helicoil exhaust"

You didn't runb into any problems from the difference of the 2wd and 4wd axle stubs? The hub/rotor bolt's right on? Don't your wheel bearings reside inside the drum?

Subaru specs are to just let it get warm once. I like to run them for a week or so. No more than 500 miles. Retorquing is done with the engine cold. It's awkward to get the socket through the cam case past the valves, but can be done. I remove the oil tube above the rockers, but subaru doesn't say to do it(maybe they have thinner extensions?) Remove valve covers. Specs are to loosen the 3 passenger side intake bolts by 60 degrees, but not more. Then for each head, start with the bolt at the center of the head. #1 in the torquing sequence diagrams if you have it. Loosen it slightly.turn it back and forth in a range of about 60 degrees a few times, then torque to spec(47 ft/lbs.) Repeat going criss cross, top to bottom out towards the edge. After doing all bolts resnug #1 to spec if it needs it. Subaru says to apply oil at the bolt head after loosening, but before the retorque. However the heads so oily already I don't find a need. Tighten all intake bolts to 16 ft/lbs( I go a wee bit tighter) Reinstall oil tubes and valves covers. Drive with retorqued confidence.

I still say removing the lower pinch bolt, and the 2 caliper bolts, is the easiest way. Once that pinch bolt is out, hammer a flathead screw driver into the slot just a bit, then stand on the control arm/radius rod and the arm drops right out. Now remove the 2 caliper mounting bolt(the big 17mm heads, not the slider bolts) Pull the whole caliper/rotor/hub assemby off as one piece and bungee it up to the spring. Now pull the inner CV off the axle stub, then push the spindle out of the hub. If you have to you can bend that little traingular flap of metal out of the way to remove the axle and reinstall the new one.

These engines do not use the "Torque to Yeild" bolts. And they are bolts, not studs. (studs would be better actually) They should not stretch, nor lose there temper or effectiveness(unless they are removed and reinstalled dozens of times perhaps). The temper is created by 1000's of degrees heating and quenching. Even a massively overheated engine produces only in the hundreds of degrees. The threads in the block are a different story though. They are soft alloy and can be affected by overheating. It's really good to chase them out with a tap before reassembly. Trouble is they are a rare M11 x 1.00 size that's hard to find a tap for. Carefully running a bolt in and out of them a few times with some wd-40 is another option and works pretty well. Most shops don't retorque cause it would mean you bringing the car back to them in a month or 2 and paying to have it worked on again. Fel-pro and other manufacturers claim there gaskets not to need it as well. I retorque mine cause I use cheaper gaskets and Subaru says to. Sure I have to remove the valve covers, and the Oil tube above the rockers, but I like the peace of mind. Once you try it once and realize some of those bolts have loosened and NEED the retorque you will never not do it again.

+1 for what Skip said. It's the one with these four wires Ry Gw Rw Lr

Yeah, the Fulltime trans was offered in 87 XT's. Perhaps offered in 87 GLs but not standard.

Did you rotate the throttle body on that spyder intake. That kinda looks like the coolant line to the throttle body. If it's rotated then that is the inlet and the outlet is would now be on the top. Problem is that unless you have the water pipe that goes under the intake from an XT, you have no way to return the coolant. You can leave it unhooked and it will be fine too. Just have to cap the outlet on the manifold .

I'l check. But my car is MPFI (same disty,basically) Daeron if you are reading this you have an 87 SPFI FWD right. test the white wire with the AC v scale while cranking.

The turbo cars after 87 were *fulltime* 4wd, so there is a good tranny to grab if nothing else. And the Turbos are the most likely source of an LSD diff. Both of those things in good condition would be worth a few hundred.

We determined base on the *H* vin # that this car is actually an 87. page 3 or 4 of this thread I think. Which suck cause I still don't have my 87 FSM back from the machinist yet

Only part I've ever had to undo to replace an axle(besides the axle nut and roll pin) is the Ball joint pinch bolt. Then wedge it a bit and step hard on the control arm and it drops out. no need to Pickle fork you're balljoint boot to death, or disassemble the front end. Trick is to turn the steering wheel so the tie rod on the side you're working on is extended. reason to remove the rotor/brakes? well the rubber line will only flex so far. You need to be able to really swing the knuckle outwards. Once the rotor/hub and the seal behind them is removed, 2 pieces of angle iron or even stout flat iron across the opening provide an excellent base to pull the axle through with washers and the nut. For Impreza I would undo the 2 top strut bolts instead, way easier. Also impreza it's easy to pull the axle in and out of the hub. One of my favorite changes in design.

Does it have automatic shoulder belts?

And I think I've asked before but how where you testing for spark? Have you tried a shot of starting fluid to see if you get any fire? I just reread the whole thread and am trying to rack my brains and books for ya. Sorry to repeat ?s Also, is your donor harness from a US or Canada car? And what year was it and was it 4wd. Apparently the USA FWD GL sdn/wagons model, w/ auto belts have a rev sensor(tach pulse sensor) that won't allow fuel unless it senses a pulse. EDIT: okay that is in the 89 FSM, but not the 90 for Loyale. I don't know, just to check pins 29, 41, and 49 (W,W,R/blue) are all recieving 12v from ignition relay?