Gloyale

He is confusing disty instal with the Timing belt instalation. Tming belt instalation is done with the 3 little marks. (was this done right? Crank lined up on center of 3 marks, the dot on pulley should point straight up(right) and straight down(left)) Inserting the disty, is done by lining up the crank on 0 TDC and pulleys as follows: The left side pulley mark should be at a 45 degree tilt up/out. The right side opposite(45 degrees down/out) Crankshaft at 0 TDC. But make sure you align the dot on the disty shaft with the notch in the shaft housing.

You would need an adapter plate. And the TPS for the EJ22 outputs a different range than the EA82t. I think this could mess with the Trans Computer(TCU) and it may not respond right to throttle applications, downshifting and what not. Other than that it would work. Don't worry about the 4EAT being tough enough. If you are putting in a Non-turbo EJ the 4EAT will take it just fine. Better yet put a full EJ driveline in. You already have 25 spline axles cause it's a turbo. And you have an MPFI fuel pump already too.

Just be careful. Most of what is on the net is partial FSMs from various years. If you need a specific thing verified let me know.

Is there a LightGreen w/yellow wire at pin 18 of ECU? If there is it's suposed to get 12v during cranking. I say if because the strange thing is some of the SPFI diagrahms show it, at some don't, even in the same year FSM.

I think he just meant it's an 87 longblock. I think his ECU, MAF TPS all match and are 85

It may be as simple as the switch inside the seatbelt latch not working. The car still thinks you need to put on your seatbelt. replace the latch or remove wires and splice them closed or open, whichever is the *latched* postion do the motors for the electric belt still work and latch properly?

It's good to note that RX boxes while being technically dual range, have only a 1.2 reduction where as the normal PT D/R had 1.59. Also the RX boxes are 3.7 final to begin with so even in low you have gears nearly as tall as the HI range of the 3.9 final drive PT boxes. Although the RX boxes have slightly lower and closer ratios for 2nd through 5th gears. Ultimate Tranny: 3.9 and 1.59 D/R, with Fulltime RX gears

Sometimes people add the little inline filters to the carbed models somewhere near the intake. But from the factory there is only one filter. It's located on the fuel pump bracket near right rear wheel. SPFI and MPFI models use a filter near the left strut tower. They don't have one underneath.

look in my user photos

Yes in 87 they did this to all ea82 pistons. That's why 85,86 pistons are marked only with an *up* marker. 87 plus pistons are marked with *up* and an arrow that points forward so the pistons go on the correct side for the offset.

I vote for the later. Try putting the jackstands under the ends of the crossmember.

I think I'm gonna call a spade a spade and agree this was a headgasket issue. If the cracks were in the exhaust then the water would not be in the cylinder. It would be only in the exhaust. My one question is are you sure that that water didn't just fall down that cylinders intake port when you removed the manifold? If you're sure that's not were the water came from then I think this is a head gasket issue. Did you have your heads surfaced originally? If not I would do them and Definately check them either way with a straigh edge.

In 87 subaru Changed the piston design of all EA82 engines slightly. They offset the position of the wristpin in the piston by 1mm to the thrust side. helps keep the piston stationary in the bore and I believe this is why 87+ have a 6500 rpm redline.

I would disagree that that rust can really be stopped. Once it's in the creases and crvices of a unibody car it's all but impossible to stop it and restore the car. BUT Honestly Zebisko are you really planning on returning this car to showroom mint collector material? That's not what you need from it. I've seen these soobies get much rustier and still be solid enough to drive daily. If you're ambitious you could reinforce some of the affected areas with some welding and patching, but I wouldn't keep "restoration" in mind while doing it. You just don't have the wallet for it as true restoration is very expensive, espescially on a rusty car with very little aftermarket body part support. I'd say drive it, enjoy it, and spend the money and time keepin it running good. And for God's sake don't jack it from the rusty framerails. Lift it by the center of the front crossmember or by the rear diff/subframe.

I think your're relay or you're wiring are mixed up. Does the other wire, Blue/white get any voltage. What about when you ground the blue/black wire(unpplugged from ECU) That is supposed to be the wire that recieves voltage from the relay and powers the pump. Pin 47 provides a ground. shouldn't get power

I'm in Kenosha WI. I have FSMs for 85 thru 90 and over ten years owning ond sevicing Subarus. Need any advice or help let me know. Glad to help

This is contrary to all the diagrahms and info in the FSM. Pin 47 activates the relay by supplying ground to the relay. The power for the relay comes from the fusebox through the Black and white wire.

E. Is the Aux Air Valve line. Connects to into opening I on one side of valve and tube E goes to somewhere in the intake plenum after turbo, like into the IC or something. J goes to N K goes to M F and G go down to the 2 hard vac lines that point up towards the Throttle body. No tee needed in Brake booster line. Q,R, and P are the Fuel supply, return, and vent. Not sure which is which but supply comes from the Filter, and the vent tube can be followed across the intake to the evap can. the other is the return to the tank. O goes into the intake boot but after MAF before turbo Wire S needs to be grounded./ It supplies the main ECU ground. C and D look like the lines to the intake boot and and Duty solenoid valve. Although from factory there is no nipple there and the lines that G goes to is supposed to supply that vaccum. Perhaps the one "tex" showed is modified to eliminate some of that under intake tubing.

Hi, I'm up in Kenosha WI above you. I have all the Factroy Manulas for these cars and you can call me anytime you have a question. Also there is a member Milemake13 down in your area too.(dekalb) Send me a PM on here if you need anything and I'll give you my phone #

Code 35 is the Purge solenoid valve. It's a electrically operates vaccum switch that controls the venting of the charcoal can. That should not have anything to do with the no start, the distributor, and certainly not the Air flowmeter. You won't see voltage on the spark plug wires.

I said with the Relay disconnected. We are trying to determine if there is a short or problem with the fuel pump relay wiring, or if the ECU is actully outputing 12v through that pin. Basically is that 12v coming from the B/w wires through the realy to the pin 47 wire? Or is the ECU outputting 12v from pin 47 And all those Disty wire measurements are off what they should be. Allthough if you have 12v going to a ground signal on the ECU that's not surprising. I can't tell you why you're wire colors are different though all my books through 90 show G/w, G/y, B/w and Black. But either way tha's bad voltage reading that in the flowchart would point at the ECU

Looks like you could bolt a piece of angle iron to the driver side upper fender mount holes. Then use it as a lever(possibly with a big pipe over the end) to lift that supprt upwards. Hammering on the folded parts of the radiator wall/headlight ares while levering it up will help[ it relieve stress and flatten out. I would try fashioning something you can bolt into the bumper mount holes. Something you can bolt into the mount and then attach a chain to it and a tree and try back up slowly. Back up till there is force pulling on the chain. Set the E-brake, leaving tension then get out and hammer with tapping motion on the bottom of that beam the bumper bolts too. Then get back in and give it a few more chain tugs. The metal has to be reshaped gradually. Duplicating the forces that bent it originally in reverse order bit by bit. You can do it. I mean this is not going to be a show and shine ride anyway right?

As someone who actually has training and experience in autobody(both with professional tools and chains and like) It is far from FUBAR. Just FU. The professional fix would definately be to drill out the spotwelds of the affected panels and remove them. Then weld in new panels. Autobody shops wouldn't do any major stretching on this type of unibody car. Mabye just a little to alingg stuff to accept the new panels. Mellow I take it a task like that is beyond you right now so here's what I recommend. Keep at it slowly and methodically moving the metal back into shape. Don't try for big moves all at once. Rather try to apply force in the oppostie order that the collapse/accident happened. Looks like the headligh area needs to come upwards and be flattened out. For a radiator support you could fashion a crosspiece out of angle iron. Remember new sheetmetal is going to be covering the whole thing so it doesn't need to be perfect underneath.

# 3 (Blue/black) should not get 12 v. # 4 (Blue/White) should get 12v when 3 is grounded, that is the switching action of the relay. Without the fuel pump relay disconnected, key on, pin 47 should not output any voltage, does it? Well the wire colors I reffered to test are the corresponding harness side of that pug. What colors are the wires on the body side of the disty plug Looking at the unplugged disty harness(harness/body side) heres what you should have with key on "" 1 2 3 4 1 (Green/Black wire)should have 10v 2 (Green/Yellow wire) Should have 4v 3 (Black/white wire) should have 4v 4 (Black wire) should have continuity to ground through pin 35 of ECU If all that checks out then try reconnecting the disty and performing the hand crank test to watch for 5v pulses from Black/white wire, pin 21 of ECU If it passes, use the starter cranking test to watch for pulses at the Green/yellow wire, pin 20 of ECU

Sorry I was just told that by a friend who worked at the dealership. And as far as welding I haven't had those cracks welded but I have had exhaust cracks on my turbo heads welded up. It's just about the only option anymore for MPFI heads. New gen 3 heads are getting rare and are spendy. Finding a good set is maybe 1 in 10 odds at best(NA XT is the best bet). Most all gen 1 and gen 2 Turbo heads have exhaust cracks at least begining. They don't always crack through to the coolant passage. But of course they have the BTV cracks and possibly cracks between the edge of the valve and spark plug hole. I'll put up some pics. Sorry no dissection of the welded heads yet.