Gloyale

Would an ea81 have a crank sensor? do you just mean the coil/magnet type pickup? Also look on ebay. A store called *ufixitautoparts* they have a coil listed for subaru for 10 dollars. not sure if it excactly right but maybe somecould tell you if it would work. looks like it's listed to fit the early ea82 MPFI set-up.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-GLC-Subaru-1800-Volkswagen-Rabbit-Ignition-Coil_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33689QQihZ005QQitemZ150128350578

Hey that's a nice job on the page miles. But I will add that one should clean the threads of the oil pump bolt holes gently with a tap. M6 x1.00 Clean the bolts well, and tighten only to 16-19 ft/lbs of torque. If you don't have a torque wrench, basically a good snug, but shouldn't require any muscle. If you're ratchet handle is about a foot long, imagine it sticking out level, with a bowling ball pushing down on the end. That's how much force.

Why don't you just come on down to Kenosha. I can walk you throught the whole thing and I've got all the taps, and extra bolts, extra Timing belt covers. Timing light. We could do it in 2-3 hours

If you're CEL light is not coming on and off in time with that clicking Then there is a problem. It may be an indicator of a bad ECU. Does the CEL light come on with the key in on/eng. off WITHOUT the test connectors plugged in? It should. If it doesn't, pull the panel and check the bulb. If the bulb looks good then check the wire for voltage with key on/ eng. off. No voltage there is a problem. If that all works but the CEL still doesn't appear in d-check(greens connected) then there is a problem. If you can hear the relay, but the pump doesn't run Check for votage at the pump. If no voltage there then test the relay. It may be clicking but not actually passing current through to the Pump.

Often a little snugging will help without even changing the gasket. Don;t go too tight but they are ussually about a 1/4-1/2 turn loose after 20ish years.

Putting a new catylitic converter in and giving it a good tune-up is almost a sure bet to pass. A good cat is often the most critical thing to making a car pass. Running a half tank of Xylene through it during testing helps too.

It just comes on and stays on? or does it cycle on/off in time with the blinking of the CEL light? Does the CEL even light up with the key in On? If the pump is on continuiosly the FSM say to check the Fuel pump system.

I agree, replace the T-stat first and see where you're at. If it's still running hot let me ask this. Is the bottom hose hot as well when this happens? Has you're cooling system ever been run with just water or a low coolant mix? I've seen waterpumps that quit pumping cause the fins rot away(aftermarket) when just water is used. Then you have a bare shaft spinning in there not pumping anything. One test is to make sure the system is full, then turn on the heater. If it blows hot at first but then quickly turns to cold(or luke warm) air then you are getting no circulation.

ROFLMAO:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: OMFG

Oes the CEL come on when the key is on/eng. off? Is it behaving normally and flashing when you put the car in D-check(green connected)? Maybe she means they cleared an intermitent code. Only one that worries me is the Air bypass code. That one could actually affect driving. (so could the Crank angle code but thatcode 11 is often thrown in d-check for some reason. I think if you tap the key a bit to far?.) If it runs good I'd say sweet deal

Not like a freshly re-ringed motor that make the specified 145. But I looked it up and the specified acceptable limit of 117. So I guess 100 to 120 isn't too bad NA engine are speced at168, limit 139

My 86 had an issue where it would have a kind of a stalling then surging feeling to the acceleration. Very minimal and only at full boost, hard pulls. In any gear but between 2000 and 3700 rpms. Like clockwork, at 3700 rpms the power would come on full force. I though it was characteristic of these early turbos because the TPS is not a potentiometer type.

I just called em and they hauled it for free. They are gonna make money on the metal. If you are way out, miles away from the wreckers they might want some money, but not much.

Cracked or brittle and leaking. I would actually suspect this first. You need some of those vac ports to run the secondaries on the carb and the vacuum advance. as well as the purge for the carb bowl, the Anti Afterburn Valve and other. That stuff is all there for a reason. Should you decide to replace the vacuum lines(a much better idea, I think) you should know there are small metal inserts in the tubes that restrict the amount of vacuum to certain parts. marked as *orifice* on the diagrams. Make sure to fish them out and replace in the new vac tubing. Note **If you didn't install NGKs, take out whatever you put in and get some.

I knew that I had read it somewhere. But my for sure verified source was the friend at the dealer. This explains both.

You have to dig out the filler material to get to it, down near the front base of carb. I would only adjust it as a last resort. It doesn't do anything really noticeable really as far as I can tell either. But it is down there if you dig. Left(ccw)=rich Right(cw)=Lean But without a an exhaust anylyzer you'll be shooting in the dark cause you can't tell it's changing anything while adjusting.

If you get an early Legacy 5SPD, you just need to get the matching rear diff for whatever car you're tranny comes from. Most Legacy 5spds are 4.11 ratio and will bolt up and uses the same axle stubs as EAs. You could use one of these diffs with a newer trans as long as the trans is also 4.11 Later models it gets more complex as the axle inputs changed on the diffs. So say a 99 forester diff, won't accept axles from an EA82, and Foresster axles won't go straight onto the EA either. People have done hybrid axles using EA axles and outer joints and later model inners. Once you figure out which tranny you're going to use, the options become more clear.

Is the rotor fixed properly to the disty shaft? How are you verifying spark? I take it you're timing belts look like the diagrahm and the disty is in correct? Your last post was frustrated, but not clear wether you verified the belts. Perhaps pull the plugs and verify the spark at the plug by grounding the plug. Use insulated pliers and rubber gloves to hold it, or get a proper spark plug tester.

LOL that may have been me before I discovered that unlike the 3at, the 4EAT has no seperate "bellhousing". And yes there is a good possibility it has Limited slip rear. It will only have a center diff lock if it is a Fulltime MT. Automatics don't have a center diff so no locking needed.(should be controled by the TCU, but there is a method of "locking" the center of a 4EAT. Look in the USRM)

Really? In what?

They came on all 85/86 4WD models

You're belts should look like this if they are correct. If they do then pull you're disty, aling the notche and dot, and then reinsert. The rotor should now point at #1 position of Cap(almost straight back)

I agree. To me this is the biggest reason tho put in a 2.2, for reliability. Why would you put in a modern motor, as well managed and reliable as any, and remove the very system that makes it so? To introduce decades old technology that is often hard to dial in and has poor fuel economy, cold starting, etc. Plus the disty thing is a big roadblock right there. I'd rather deal with wires and a computer over a carb any day

Well my own personal statisticts are 100% of the engines i've opened for new headgaskets have had them.(that's about 20 or so) 1 Set of turbo heads was so bad I chose not to use them, but they had exhaust cracks too, If not, I might still have used them. And even the heads I did find for that motor had BTV cracks too. So that's 20 resealed motors with 100% BTV cracks and every one fired right up and lost no coolant. no one has ever complained or brought their car back. 6 of those engines I'm still in close contact with the owners and they are still fine. some of them going on 50,000 miles since my reseal. Seems 100% is a pretty good statistic.