Gloyale

Any more Bosch is just a name. There stuff is made in Mexico, China, Taiwan and Malaysia. So much for German presicion

No, only 2wd non turbo used the smaller disc. All turbos, and all 4wd and XT6 used the same disc. There is a slight difference in pressure plates and flywheel surface for the XT6. But any Turbo or 4wd clutch and will work directly.

Yeah, I have had great experiance with the bosch power tools. I have a Bosch drill, jugsaw, and Recip saw. They are all great and I love there power and smooth action. I guess I let that influence me to give their plugs a try. Bad idea.

Hey skip, you gonna use that bracket? wanna sell it?

I think it's normal to see a slight lflat spot, but if it is Questionable I'd try to find some others. I've stripped down so many of these motors that I've got bins full of rockers and HLAs(lifters, but not)

It's trivial and I don't mean to make light of tradgedy. But... did anyone notice they spelled it "Impresa"

500 bucks tops to get her running like a champ again

I'm going to retract this statement. Partly inspired by this thread I pulled the bosch plugs out of the motor I had put them in. I can't find the electrode! It is a burned out hollow hole in the middle of the plug. I know that bosch plats don't have much of a center electrode but these have NONE. They have maybe 15-20K miles on them.

2 words WOOD CHIPPER

I can tell you that the resistance values are very close to stock specs. Primary=between 8-1.02 ohms Secondary=between 8-12K ohms But I have no experience using one.

Here we call it the pitch stopper I guess. But.. the steady bar as you say is held by two plates bolted at their base through the holes on top of the transmission that look like a spine. The pitch stopper bar is basically the same but shorter. Ands you could probably fabricate two triangular plates to hold a shortened RX one. I believe the Injectors are the same As far as the Throttle body you almost have to retain the early style RX TPS at least. The (xt)Vortex TPS uses a potentiometer with a 4 wire connection. If you have the flapper MAF then you're TPS uses just an idle and a full throttle switch with 3 wires. And you can't bolt that TPS straight to the spider TB because it rotates the oposite way! Plus you don't have the TB?? *disclaimer: This all is what would be the case for USDM. you're AUS stuff may vary

Yeah, that all sounds right. The US carbed models all had Hitachi Carbs even those with the denso disty setup. But I think you should stick with the Hitachi. Are you using your US 85 intake and carb? Or the JDM setup? I think the JDM denso disty is from a car with a feedback carb, which I think uses that second vacuum for an auxillary advance control, operated bya solenoid. Either way I say stay with the Hitachi. They are pretty dependable and servicable. I've never really seen one *fail*. They can get gunked up, stick or the Vac advance can break. But all that is fixable.

Yeah that tube is fo rthe turbo and NA spyders don't have it. Do you have the Waterpump bypass return hose? The one going from the heater hose back under intake to the waterpump. Spyder cars there is an extra line brazed into that tube for the throttle body coolant return line.

The push button 4WD partime and the difflock for Fulltime trans use the same shift solenoids. Mounted just behind the drivers side srtut tower under the hood. there is a single vacuum line with a check valve(one way) that feeds vaccum to both.

I believe that is true. Also make sure you have a set of shift solenoids and a pushbutton 4wd shifter. Or you could use some other type of double throw switch, but it seems like a pushbutton 4WD shifter would work great. But instead of engaging the 4wd it would engage the diff lock.

23 spline stubs=non turbo, 3.9 diff ratio 25 spline stubs=turbo trans, 3.7 diff ratio. Looking at those added pics, at least the 3rd one down, I think that is a fulltime 4wd box, and the vac cable controls the center diff lock(as these trans did not have Viscous centers yet). If it was a PT trans that cable would go to a lever at the top section of the rear. Clearly that cable is connected to the bottom which is where the diff lock is. That also means this trans will most likely have 25 spline axles as only Turbos and XT6's got those trans. The second pic looks like a different trans, no Vaccum cable assembly and there is a cover on the clutch input shaft. That on may be different.

I did all my wiring in the cab where the 4eat TCU harness plugs into the main harness in the footwell. I guess fo me to disable all I have to do is connect the clips I spoke of earlier behind the radio trim. I don't like having to pop my hood for driving functions. Heck I wired a switch into the FWD fuse so I don't have to get out to use it. Mostly I use it just to output TCU codes. But I figured it was easy enough to do so why not?

Yeah only Turbo Wgn/sdn/coupes had the 4EAT. And that is only 87 and after. And of course XTs. All the SPFI GLs and Loyales use the PT 3AT

Seems like more extreme conditions than I would be facing. And with the placement of the Engine and trans balanced on the crossmember I can't see the engine tilting like a long jeep 4.0 or V8. If I was going seriously hard core offroad/crawling I would do a bit beefier design, seperate from pan. But the title of this thread is "pan protection" not "how to make a soob indestructible"

I set mine up so with connectors and a 10 amp inline fuse that do 2 things. First the fuse would have to burn out before the 20 amp rated switch. And I located the fuse and connector behind the radio trim which pops off easily in my car(no screws, clip style) So if my switch burns out I can easily remove it and connect the wires directly. I'm curious, what type of realy setup are you talking about. Using the relay to break the circuit? A normally *on* relay that turns *off* with switched signal?

I'm pretty sure that just like the EAs, the EJ uses seperate sensors for the ECU and Gauge. Single pole "thermometer" sends signal to the Gauge, "WTS" with 2 poles is for the ECU. EA analog and digidashes use the same sender(thermometer) so the scale is the same. Should be no difference with using it in digi or analog dash. I would think it best to thread the manifold for the right sender, ort at least fix the scale with a resistor. You're EA gauge will never show hot using an EJ sender, you'd be guessing as to how hot your actually running. Basically once it got hot the sender would be far from acurate would stop rising even though the engine is getting hotter and hotter.

There is no seperator plate on SPFI blocks so unless you have an MPFI engine disregard that. I personally would replace the rear main but Gary is right they don't often leak. If this car is automatic, it is surely a 3spd PT box. In that case there is no "ring seal"(the wierd split ring thing)like on the 4EAT. But there is a TC seal and it is easy to install. I would replace that.

It looks like an EA82 partime, S/R 4wd tranny. It is hard to tell though from that angle. And there is no way to tell if it is from a turbo or non turbo car. That's important becasue the axle stubs and ratio are different. If you get the wrong trans for your car your axles won't fit and the rear diff will not match.

Early (85-86) were glued on. But they stopped glueing them on in 87. Perhaps you have a fender or door from an 85-86 or perhaps someone glued them back on after breaking clips.

There are Nippon EA82 distys. I know that all carbed 87s have them. I've never seen one in an 85 though. According to the 85 FSM it must be from a carbed 2wd USA or any California car. Meaning used with the "feedback" ECU controlled carb. As far as Advance curves there is actually a bit of difference. Both have very similar mechanical advance curves, totaling up to 15 degrees of advance at 3000 rpm. The Denso disty can only add an additional 8-10 degrees with vaccuum where as the hitachi can add more than 15. The denso disty is also meant to be used with the feedback carb system. If you don't have a feedback carb, I would stick with the hitachi. I personally think the quality of Hitachi components is way higher than Denso. Plus the Hitachi distys are somewhat serviceable. You can easily replace the mech adv. springs or adjust the air gap. Densos are all but a sealed, non serviceable unit.