Gloyale

Yeah it could. test the relay.

In good spirits I say this First the "cranking signal" is not from the ignition switch, it comes from the crank sensor in the distributor( I know, crank both noun and verb, right) So the signal is present any time the engine is rotating. Note:** FSM..Ignition switch/power supply diagrahm shows there is a wire shown as fuse through fuse 20 designated SPFI control unit. Funny though it is not Shown on the SPFI ECU diagrahm. Theres no place for a signal wire from the starter switch though. Perhaps it's a carry over from earlier model not erased form every diagrahm, just the main updates. I've seen that before. I just looked back at 86 FSM and sure enough in 86 ther is a wire signaling from the starter though fuse 20. Only powered in start position of ig switch. It's a Light green w/Yellow wire in the corner of the medium size ECU connector(sorry no pin #s in 86 diagrahms, just location) Also on 2wd Carbed models the same fuse supplies power to the Fuel pump during cranking If you really don't want more to go wrong, then would'nt just adding a no fail 12v all the time push button be the fewest parts and failure points?

Check pin 47 first

Pin 47 grounds the fuel pump relay! it should not have 12v. If you supplied that pin with 12v you may have damaged the ECU. Hopefully not. Power for and through the fuel pump relay should come from fuse 11 through the Black/white wires.

Pointing back to the CAS in disty still perhaps. But first, the sheilding on the disty wires should have continuity to ground. From factory that ground was supplied through a combined plug then to pin 35 of ECU. The black wire in the disty wires should also have continuity to ground through pin 35 of ECU. So the Shield and Black wire should have continuity to each other. Check the Black/white wire on the Disty harness for voltage of at least 4V Check the Green/black wire for at least 10v Check the Green/Yellow wire for voltage at least 4v If that all checks out try this. Disconnect the 2 pole plug on the transistor/ignitor. Hook up a lead so you can test the voltage of Black/white wire with the disty connected and hands free. Test for a pulse of 0 then 5v while turning the crank by hand slowly(22mm socket) Then after removing your wrench from the crank pulley crank it with the starter and watch for voltage. If either way you have no pulse, replace distributor.

I ran the button in Parallel to the existing circuit. That way I only need it if the car fails to start by turning key

Push button. And it only need be 14g wire. Use an inline fuse and while your at it replace the spade connector at the starter solenoid.

The ECU does supply the Maf ground. Possibly an issue with the ECU. but let's address the spark. I think you have a Distributor issue. The Crank angle sensor inside it in particular. If it is not hooked up right or working you'll get no spark. And because this is the SPFI system the Fuel injector will not spray and the pump get's no power until the ECU senses revolution. If there is no signal from the CAS the pump will not pump. This explains why you don't have juice to the fuel pump wire. Check it for power while cranking. (old carbed models had a Revolution sensor signaled by the tach wire for the same thing) How sure are you your distributor is hooked up right. You are using the EA82 disty right?

It's not that S/R to D/R won't work. It's that mostS/R are 3.9 just like most D/R. The thing is this S/R is from a turbo and is 3.7 where as you're D/R is a 3.9 . It may work fine. It may work with a percent speedo error, or it might not work at all. I just don't know and it's a possible difference

The resistance of the injector should be from .5 to 2 Ohms. Pull the connector off the injector and measure resitance across terminals of injector. Should be between .5- 2 ohms. If you get resistance out of those values for the injector replace the injector. Terminal 43 of the ECU is a Red w/White wire. This is the positive injector wire. Terminal 48 of ECU is a Red w/Black wire, this is the injector Negitive wire. Same colors as the wires at the injector. If the injector tested good then reconnect it. Disconnect ECU harness and measure resistance between Term 43 and 48 of the connector (not the ECU itself). Resistance should be between .5 and 2 Ohms.(your just measuring the injector through the whole wire to test the whole circuit end to end) If it measures good at injector but not at the ECU end there is a break in the circuit. Measure for continuity end to end between injector connector ECU term 43 and 48 respectively to find which wire is broken or unhooked. If that all tests good the hook up a voltmeter or better a test light to the injector connector. Pos injector wire to the test probe and neg wire to ground of the test light. Crank the engine and see if the light pulses. If not then you have no injector signal. Could be a bad connection at the ECU or a Bad ECU altogether

non the less even subaru has said these cracks are *acceptable defect* for rebuilding. And it's not a different standard of care, it's a standard of money and liability. There are millions of Subarus driving around with these cracks in the head doing fine. Those brand new heads you pay for crack within 10-20K miles then you're back in the same boat. Even the rebuild seems to be telling you this. If you really want to fix the cracks welding is a great idea. Of course it requires removal and refitting of the valve seats. But to address your question earlier about it, no you don't just weld the surface shut. You (or your welder more likely) would grind out the material from the crack, all the way to it's end. By grinding it away you ensure that you get all the way to solid metal. In this case it would be a channel on each side of the seperating wall between intake and exhaust. Then you would weld in fill material to close it all back up. Drag race and short track guys do stuff like this all the time with their aluminum heads. Take them to someone familiar with aluminum head welding.

[quote name=Skip Comp pressures are decieving' date=' as long as they are balanced the gauge you use could be reading low, I don't think this is your current problem.[/quote] I don;t think that's his problem either. I was just saying that 100-120 psi is not "good"

It's not as universal as that. The geared end that goes into the trans is ussually pretty specific to each car. (possibly even dependent on gear ratio of trans. And actually the cable I've got is from a 3.7 turbo car. I'll have to check if it has the same # of teeth on it's drive gear, you may need to get one from a 3.9 non turbo car) And it's tough, but the cable can be plugged itno the dash without removing anything but the lower trim panel, just takes alot of flexibility and a good sense of what you're feeling for.

Those are kinda low compression numbers. Specs call for 150 psi. You could have some worn rings or valves.

I believe the cable from a S/R would work as well. I have one I could send you if you want. 5 bucks for shipping. PP @ Leosglass@yahoo.com

The axle shaft hold the hub to the knuckle, so you'll have to take off the outer boot, and pop the axle out of the inner CV race. Leave the outer part of the cup installed in the hub. just remove the inner CV joint and the shaft.

Pull harder.

I think it is the ignition switch. Very common. Try turning the key to on. Then get under hood and touch 12v to the starter solenoid tab. If it sarts then no problem then you know no enough amps can make it through the ignition switch. I just run a simple pushbutton with 12v fused to the starter. Other use relays, but that still requires that your ignition switch makes contact. I like the button, as it takes the ignition switch out of the equation. You could run a button and a relay to be extra cool

Either clogged or not getting signaled to open. Check the injectors circuit.

Don't forget the that worn main and rod bearings will lower the pressure of the oiling system and contribute to TOD. But basically a bit of TOD is something that can happen to any Subaru. Hank as for the cracks affecting oil pressure and combustion shape. First no, BTV cracks have no bearing what so ever on the oil pressure or TOD. As for incomplete combustion I think the only affect they could have is if they were bad enough to affect overall compression. The slight deformation of the combustion chamber is minimal in consequence. Most Mechanics that have to pay liability insurance won't use a cracked head on principal(principal on the loan they took out to pay for it). Although I suspect he is not a subaru specialist. If he insists on replacing your heads with new ones to the tune of $600 per set or more, it's to cover his own rump roast. Not because these cracks are going to make the car stop running or have problems. Seriously, I had a Carbed GL with moderate BTV cracks in every chamber for who knows how long. I had driven it about 15,000 miles, then at 160,000 miles I redid headgaskets because of external oil leaks. Drove it another 40,000 miles (actually took the engine out of the first car and put it in a new one) Then sold it still running sweet. Compression over 165 in all cylinders. 26 mpg avg.

Well at least the XT manual will have basic info relavant to your Loyale Timing belt stuff and brakes and such. Justl ook at the 1800 diagrahms

That would suck so bad in Wisconsin winter. I block off most of my radiator and remove my clutch fan

SPFI? Check all the fuse and fusibles. Pull the intake boot off and crank it and see if it is spraying any fuel. Test the fuel pump also by plugging the green connectors toghether with key on/eng. off. The ECS light should blink and you should hear the fuel pump cycling in time with it. You could try putting the key in the on position, try to get it where you can here the fuel pump, then start it by touching a 12v lead to starter solenoid under the hood. If it starts then, it may be the ignition switch not sending power through in the *start* position.

I doubt it's the case but if that was open to the atmosphere then you had unmetered air entering through the PCV system. Possible no start?