Gloyale

Basically what he said except with this addition. Clamp the axle into a vise. Use a punch against the inner race. Hammer the inne rrace off of the end of the shaft. It's held by a spring clip in a groove. Once the shaft is out oof the inner race it can be turned until the balls come out and then the outer race. I don't know why he says you can't reassemble, I've done it. It's best to use a new spring clip but it will certainly work.

How do you know the pump is good? Has it been replaced? Just cause it's not leaking does not mean it is fine. If the car has been run with just water in it then the impeller fins may have rusted away, although if this was the case it would get hot at other times as well. Also how did you test the T-stat. They can appear to open fine but in actuallity not work well enough to hold a temp in these engines. Replace it. With a Subaru one. It's worth the few dollars for peace of mind. I agree with GD as well that you should be able to get more than 75, but my Carbed subarus never made 100. Still I think you're timing may be off. Check it or have it checked and set to 20 degrees btdc. The marks are under a small rubber cover on the back of the motor and the timning shoulod be set with the Green test connectors near strut top connected. The two outer timing belt covers should be removed and the belts verified as well. Probably first before ignition timing.

Hi, I recently picked up a radio(just radio, no tape) from an Early Legacy. It has 2 seperate plug connectors in it. I am actually trying to use this in my old GMC box truck. So I need to know which pins are what. Does anyone have a Legacy FSM that they could look? A scan of the page would be great. but a numbered description would be fine too Looking at back of radio, here are the pins. 1st plug 1 2 * 3 4 5 6 * 7 8 Second plug 9 * 10 11 * * 12 13

Any thing after 96 I think, whenever they made OBD mandatory the light has to be off. Before that manufacturers had more variations in there systems and the extent of what the system monitors/diagnosis. And what parameters it calls "bad". So becasue of that earlier cars like ours are not automatically failed(or not tested) for an CEL. At least not in all states. I've seen people have trouble when the testing station person doesn't realize the car is very much pre-OBD2

No matter what, you're exhaust is leaking and you aren't getting full boost. If it leaks at full throttle it's leaking at idle. You just aren't noticing it as much. If you're turbo is not spooling properly you don't get boost. Turbo cars are not the ones to have the "it'll work for a while if I......" attitude with. They'll bite ya real quick

This is right except with an SPFI you'll get 5-8 short flashes if there is no problem( this is the model designator)

Yeah actually I think I'm gonna try it. 91Loyale I think I might have to rethink my offer to sell you that set:rolleyes: hmmm...

Don't wait to fix it if you're car is a Turbo. You can damage you're motor by running with a before turbo exhaust leak. Plus you're losing horsepower and that sucks. You should fix it or don't drive it.

Really man, You are going to pull the heads for this? replacing the head gaskets is not a small job. Plus the cost of replcing the gaskets. And Doing all that work instead of a 15 minute fix is crazy. Now if you are ready to replace you're timingbelts, Headgaskets, intake gaksets, water pump and reseal the whole front of motor including oil pump then it would make sense to do it then(almost, except the extra cost of welding). But if all you are trying to fix is the exhaust there's no reason to tear down the motor.

I think this is telling you to do what you want. Sorry if the tone was rough in my post. But really. There are way easier fixes for this than pulling the whole head off and wleding up the hole. I'm glad you won't be the welder, but that means all the more an expensive option this would be. I have had heads welded before and it is fine if you pay a good welder. But that was for cracks in the heads, not an exhaust stud. It would be way more work, money, and risk than nessecary. We're all trying to help. We want you're Subaru experience to be a good one. Not one filled with wallet robbing expense and endless hours of uneeded work.............................Althought that's bound to happen anyway lol

Whatever man. There is no need to weld it. The helicoil will be stronger than the original metal. I'm betting on causing more damage than fixing by welding. Aluminum welding is very tricky and if you don't know what you're doing it's easy to melt away what you were trying to fix. Espescially with a cheap wirefed Mig unit. We've offered valid solutions other than wleding that will work, but if you want to destroy your head go for it.

By the looks of these pics it appears the 2wd shock would actually lift the rear end if installed on 4wd arms.

If you don''t need the pushbutton setup then it's a simple matter of installing a 5spd, DR. They did make them, in 85-89 GLs. It will have a lever activation, but is essentially a bolt in replacement for you're 4spd. Just make sure to get the 5spd shifter setup too.

Uhh, I don't think so, at least not in the sense of just clipped or bolted on. It is a spot welded piece of the cars body.

Hi tim. Welcome to the board. Greast to have more Wisco members. As far as the flexplate, the holes on it are not all evenly spaced. This is intentional so that it's all but impossible to get it installed wrong. It will only fit one way so you should be good. Did you rotate the engine once in between installing the left and right belts? Do they look like this when lined up on TDC? Sorry, this pic is too small. go to this thread and you can see it a bit bigger. On page 3, click on the pic to see it bigger. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75394&page=3 The green test connectors are under the hood, near the fuel filter and the windshield wiper motor. Behind left side strut top.

Yes 90's Loyales are identical to the GL's in this regard. If you remove the base of the ball joint from the knuckle you won't damage anything. Just don't try to wedge the clamp open too much, just a little bit is all that's needed. Then just remove the 2 brake caliper mounting bolts and swing the whole caliper/rotor assembly aside and bungee it to the spring. no need to unbolt anything else. This is the method I use. Edrachs method certainly works too, I just don't like messing with the control arm and sway bar bolts. If you try to "pickle fork" the ball joint stud out of the control arm then yes you will cause damage to it's boot.

If you want to try I've got a brand new set of 2wd shocks I bought but now don't need. $20 plus shipping if you want em. Trade for?..... they are brand new.

What I meant by this is that it appears there is no mechanical advance set up in the SPFI/MPFI(2nd gen) distributors. I however have never taken one all the way apart. But no mechanism for advance is in the diagrahms The base timing was correct on my car. But the advance curve was screwed up and stuck from the weights being dry and crusty.

+1 easy fix (sorta)

I've got 2 tranny's, basically for parts that are out and easy to examine if you want to come over and look at them for insight. I have factory service manuals. If you want to borrow or make photocopies, let me know. I'm just around the corner from Lenci's Deli, one block south of Houstons bar.

I wouldn't keep do a lift if you're gonna keep 13's. No need. You won't have any more clearance than you do now really. You could get a bit higher though by purchasing a set of 4wd struts and springs to bolt in. That'd put you about an inch or two higher than the FWD with no modification.

easy, there aren't any. All the pushbutton ones are S/R. However Milemaker and I have gone at least part way towards making one. You would have to have a 5spd D/R and the shift linkage for it. You would also need the 4wd selector fork, activation lever, and vaccuum actuators and diaphram/ cable from a S/R push button car. As well as the shifter lever with the button itself. A hole can be drilled in the D/R case to accept the lever for the 4wd shifter. Then the roll pin punched out of the 4wd selector fork and the HI/LO slider shaft that goes through the case. Remove both shafts and remove the D/S shift fork. Reinstall the D/R linkage shaft Install the lever and S/R shift fork. It looks like you'd have to grind the D/R linkage shaft a bit on its top edge to clear the lever actuated S/R 4wd shift fork. I guess if you've never looked at the guts of these you probaly won't know what I'm talking bout but it looks possible.

How signifigant of a difference does it take to make it worth 4 dollars? Not much. I say they can't hurt

I had a Carbed car that failed repeatedly here is Wisconsin(dyno w/ sniffer). Tune ups brought it really close. But it wouldn't pass until I disassembled the disty and lubed up the mechanical advance weights in the bottom part of it. They were stick and leaving the timing advanced during deceleration. I discovered it using a timing light and watching the advance while raising and dropping RPMs. It was taking like 10 seconds after returning to idle RPMs before the timing would drop back to the 8 degree setting at idle. After that it passed with a decent margin. I don't know if this would be relavent to the SPFI cars though?

If it's a sedan it might not have ever had them. Some didn't