Gloyale

Goatcheeze, I'm guessing it's not a HG. You'd surely be overheating and/or smoking out the tailpipe. Couple things to check. Hoses going to the heater. they are nearly the highest point in the system, so they seldom leak actual liquid, but begin to steam once the car get's hot. That steamy smelly air comes right in the dash vents and can make it smell bad in the car. A leak in the heater core is also possible. Heater core is very east to replace(yest the dash has to come out but it's cake) I happen to have 2 extra Heater cores here very cheap if you need one. In fact I have tons of parts and I wish someone would come take some from me. PM me or call 308-1525. Yo9u know the area code

I've never fixed them. I've seen them go about an inch down into the ports and they are still fine. Vac tested fine, runs fine. Unless you want to spend an extra couple hundred for no noticeable difference I wouldn't fix them. The valve seats need removed. I've seen a few of these engines(2) have a valves seat come loosem And I suspect it's because a shop removed them to *fix* the cracks and did not reinstall the seats correctly. (they are suspossed to be shrunk in liquid nitro then pressed in so they expand into place, very few shops can replicate this)

You need to rotate the piston so that the recesses are 90 Degrees to what they are in the picture. There are 2 pins on the back of the pads, the sit in those recesses. Try puting the inner pad into the caliper before sliding it over the disc. It could be the caliper is bad but I doubt it. Operate the ebrake lever a few times(with a block or something in the caliper to keep the piston from being pushed out) See if the pad inches it;s way out. If it does the adjuster is working, and not stripped. also once you bottom out the adjustment, have you used a C clamp to compress the last little bit? I've had to do that.

Things like a leaking waterpump or or thermostat housing or radiator hose can all leave a puddle up top. especscially if driven at speed for a bit, the coolant blows back onto the motor. I'd first make sure that it actually needs a headgasket. Does it do/have any of the following symtoms?: overheat? Dense grey smoke out the tailpipe? Any water in the oil? Wet sparkplugs when you remove them? If all of these are no, then check compression. If the compression is good I'd bet on an external leak, perhaps the intake gaskets? Or a hose or waterpump? Replacing the headgasket is realatively easy but certainly no small job. It's time consuming and if you have no experience can be daunting. I wouldn't go tearing down you're motor unless it is overheating or otherwise can be confirmed to have a bad HG.

FSMs are not clear on this, but here what I can infer. wiring diagrahm show the sensor connected to # E34 of the harness. However, when you folip to the pictures showing the locations of the connectors, no #E34 is shown. Also the component location diagrahms omit it as well. What I can say is that The connectors are labeled in groups by location. And connectors E31,E32,and E33 are located at the rear portion of the intake, near pitch stopper. It should be a 2 pole connection with a White/red wire and a Black wire.

+3 for check the dust shield. They like to get pushed into the rotor during brake work

I've got a good 2wd 3at from an 88 GL-10. It's from a turbo car but for 2wd 3at it's a small matter of shift points and line pressure, with the turbo being a bit beefier actually. You can have it if you will pay for shipping. Torque converter included. It has 23 spline axle stubs (only 2wd turbo, autos were 23, all other turbos 25) I swear I've also seen new(or rebuilt?) ones on ebay for $99 bucks too.

If we are talikng about the 89 in you're heading with SPFI you should have an EGR temp sensor.

Wouldn't it have the body kit then? It doesn't have the turbo air deflectors by the rear wheel even. And check this out Is that the y-pipe going back.the turbo cross over pipe goes forward. I can't positively say what I'm seeing there though.

Funny, I have a similar problem in Wisconsin. First gen Legacy and several old 80's GL's. I order my parts form John and Phils in Corvallis, Oregon. Used to know the staff(Gina) real well but she left:( Gina are you here somewhere? Bob and Brian are good guys too.

Important! Don't keep driving with no wastegate actuator or without it hooked up! Check the one way valve in the vaccum line going to the reserve tank. There is a huge load placed on it to resist the pressure in the intake. Blow through it both ways, it should only pass air in one direction. This is just a thought.

IIRC you replaced the Master cylinder. Are you positive you got the right one? and did you hook it up properly so it's actually getting pressed by the rod form the pedal?

Tried it with the front jacked up and a board in front of the rear and it worked fine too. I think it was only the really early 4eats(*fulltime*xt6, GL/Loyale turbos) that where so heavily front biased. My Legacy seems to be pretty solidly 50/50. No slip required before the rears get power. And with a C solenoid switch you can make it a full locked diff(Clutch pack). But again, I haven't found a need to install a switch in my legacy. My 89 GL turbo needed it to handle deep snow however.

double post, see below

No such thing as a good deal on a Lumina. They are crap. My friend had a Grand prix (same car) with like 60,000 miles on it. Out of nowhere the front right spring just broke. Snapped in half. Corner of the car dropped immediately and started grinding into the tire. the Frickcin Spring just broke! driving down a flat paved road, by a little sunday driving woman! Went to wrecking yards to try and find a replacement spring and guess what. It took 3 yards before we found a car with a good one. The guy at the yard said he sell those springs like candy (when he has a good one) cause they all break. I will never ever ever buy a GM car.

Wow, This is another reason why I like the 4EAT. I just tried this and was able to go over like nothin in my 93 Legacy with 4eat. no slip or nothin.

in this order I would suspect CV axle Wheel bearing dragging brake caliper

It's on top drivers side of transmission. It's a big Vac diaphrahm with a cable coming out of one end. Follow the 2 vaccum lines form the solenoid down to the trans. Solenoids are right behind drivers side strut tower. I need to clarify. This is a Fulltime 4wd right? you won't get a 4wd indicator on the dash. You'll get a *diff lock* light if its working. The Hi/Lo is a totally seperate portion of the trans, and should be working regardless of the difflock. Note that even without the diff locked you have AWD via the center diff. But if one wheel begins to slip you will lose power transfer. Do you're heater controls work? can you get air from the Defrost/vent/floor? or just the vent? What I'm getting at is that you may have a vaccum hose disconnected or crimped. Check all theVac lines espescially the one going to the reserve tank and the one going to the solenoids.

Are you talking abou thte Difflock switch? You shouldn't hear hissing. Perhaps you're vaccum lines form the solenoids to the actuator are disconnected? or maybe the actuator has a leak? Good news is that the actuator and solenoids are the same as the PT4wd Actautor. It just connects to a different lever on the trans. you can replace it with the actuator from any PT4wd.

My bad. Point taken. I was talking about the actuator. But I think Gurus car is an 86 so it doesn't have a solenoid. The actuator is connected straight to the pressurized portion of intake. Mechanical(non-computerized) boost control. So i'm assuming that what he did was remove the actuator, and if so then the wastegate is free to flap in the breeze.

Without the wastegate solenoid connected, the actual gate is free to flop open all it wants. It relies on the solenoid to keep it pulled closed. it's surprising you get any boost.

Sounds like you need to replace you're battery cables. That's about all it could be if the starter is new.

I used a 30 amp rated switch. But I wired in a 10 amp fuse into the line so I would think the fuse to go first. I also set up opposing male/femaleconnectors in an easily accessable place so that if the switch fries open I can easily eliminate the switch, returning it to stock operation. I used it a whole bunch in the snow crossing the country on I-94 last year. No problems, no blown fse or switch. I actually measured the load of the circuit and got only about 3 amps. It may use more under heavy load?

Not to mention deprecitaion. Buy a $25,000 dollar new car. Drive it off the lot and now it's worth perhaps $15-18,000. And in 2 years it'll be worth half that. Buy a Subaru for $500-1000, drive it for a few years and guess what, as long as you've maintained it, it's still worth the same $500-1000 I keep extra Subarus too. Just make sure you call the insuracne agent when you switch which one you're driving, or keep them all insured. I got screwed because the insured car broke down, so I started driving the other(without telling my agent) and had an accident. The insurance company would have covered me in a rental or in a borrowed car. But since I owned the car(for more than 30 days, they checked the title) They would not cover me. I'm being sued for about $12,000 dollars now.

That metal thing you're talking about is a reed valve, and they get dirty and clogged. You can remove it and open it up and clean it out.