Steve W.

Hi. I think you'll find the turbo out put shafts will be 27 splines and the D/R are 25. IIRC you need turbo half shafts. Luck with your project. S.

Hi Folks. Say, my 88 GL 10 T is havin' problems. My wide band AFR is showin' some odd readings. It has run really consistantly over the last few years, under average boost (10 lbs. or less) it would run in the 12s and if I stand on it well into the 11s. Other wise it did great at keepin' it stoic. Now still running in the 12s, but when I back off the throt. it drops into the 11s, and when I stand on it, it leans into the mid 13s. I bumped the fuel pres. up 5 lbs. or so, but no change. Pulled the plugs, they show it's lean. Color me puzzled. S.

Hi Guys. Boy the Maximas are a *************** to get out if you have to pull it your self, mounted underneath. I fitted one on my 88 GL10, as per GDs write up. It sure works well, really tell the difference at nite. I bought a reman, & sent the EA back as the core. The parts house didn't care as long as they had a core. Luck with yours. S.

I,m with Caboobaroo, the Mega squirt is an amazing devise, but for our common funding problems. The stage III (about $400. in kit form) can control spark & fuel to each cyl.individually, + two of three stages of boost control & retard. Can handle up to 16 injectors, & I think multiple knock sensors. I believe you could do away with the disty, with your crank trigger & use coil-on paks or maybe a coil set up from a 2.2 or 2.5 Suby. Don't quote me, haven't been to the Mega site in a while. It sounds to me like you have a pretty good handle on where your headed, & we're just waitin' for the next installment. We fully understand the time restraints issue, so keep pluggin. S.

Thanks for the info GD. Didn't know they are rare. I recently bought a 93 Leg. turbo sedan with the intention of using it as the donor, but it's a really nice low mileage driver. So, is a 2.2 over haul kit gonna' break the bank? Any favored sources? Need new pistons? Total Seal rings or others? Sorry, got carried away. One other question GD, a bit off the subject. I have to replace the htr. core in the 93 Leg., & I ran across an old thread of yours, where you got it done without dumping the AC. Viable? Thanks again, S.

Hi guys, has anyone ever tried fitting late model GM truck large rectangular seal beams? Seems there mite be room enough beside them to place a small rect. driving lite in the stock GL space. I think they can be had in a much higher candle power form. Just a thot. Thanks, S.

Hi. Folks, I'm gathering parts for a future 2.2 swap. Got this eng. from a neighbor, he replaced it with a JY unit. It was missing badly,( burnt valve?) so I'll do a leak down test as soon as I have a few spare minutes. I guess at the very least I should pull the heads & reseal every thing. Can I get a rod cap off to look at the bearings? I'll do a little more checking, & get back with more info. Thanks Guys, S.

Hi. Doug, glad to see your back. I'm likin' your theory on the lash adjusters. Are you planning to use a stock ECU? If so you could save a little space with a newer disty, without the vac. advance. Keep up the good work. Any thing we can do to help? Hang in there, S.

Hi. folks, anybody have any tips, pointers or short cuts for replacing the heater core in my 93 Legacy. Not lookin' forward to this one at all. Thanks, S.

Hi Folks, Well my speculations proved true. If you stop the flow thru the heater core the T - stat won't open. It provides the heat source to open the thing up. I soldered up a small U out of 1/2" copper & hooked it up at the eng. htr. outlets. The radiator warmed rite away, & it never wavers from ctr. line on the gauge. Whoda thunk? Thanks for all your input guys, S.

Hi guys. I understand completely Doug. - And yes, 50-50 Prestone. - Say, I just read a thread on overheating 2.2s. from several years ago. The fellow with the heating problem, said He had even hooked in a heater core bypass tube to eliminate that as a possibility. A guy from England (as I remember) said that was a worth while test cause the constantly flowing heater circuit is what heats the t-stat to open it. Lookin' at the pump design this looks entirely plausible. One reason I got the car affordably was a bad heater core (which appears is gona' be a chore ). One of the boys at my friends shop installed a length of heater hose as a bypass, and I'd noticed it has folded flat. Could I be that lucky? I'm crossin' my fingers and my legs. Guess you know what I'm doin' tomorrow. Keep you posted, Thanks. S.

A little off topic, but a quick opportunity. Hey Doug, whats the haps with your twin turbo? S.

Hi. Thanks guys, yea the radiator looks to be new, & flows nicely. New factory t-stat, 160 deg., tickler at top. I've run it & purged/filled it several times. A friend who has a Suby shop in Santa Fe, thinks it may still be a head gskt. or warped head, & it takes the higher temps to open it up, & then it blows off at the filler tank up by the intake man. I've only checked the compr. when cold. I'm still grasping at straws. S.

Hi Folks, I recently acquired a 93 Legacy 2.2 Turbo sedan, as a donor for my 88 GL 10T wagon. 94 thou. miles, great condition, been sittin' for years. I can drive it around for some time, & temp gauge stays dead center, then for no appearant reason it will suddenly peg it. I've replaced the T-stat & water pump, fans are both running, radiator flows beautifully. It appears theirs no flow across the radiator when running, pass. side upper hose & tank hot, driv. side tank & lower hose cold. I thot' maybe a head gskt., but comp. test shows 130 across the board, & it'll hold that indefinetly. No visable leaks, tail pipe drip, steam, etc. I'm runnin' out of ideas. GD, Chucks, & several other of yous guys have many hours on these engines. Thoughts, questions? Thanks, S.

Hi Guys. Say, I'm runnin' Leg. front susp. components, & XT6 rear hubs, on my GL10. I bought the full rear brake set up off of a late 80s R. drive Nissan, hand lever, cables bracketry, calipers, etc. at the JY, for $25. The calipsers wouldn't bolt up tho. they looked the same. So, I ordered up a set of remans for 240 SX, sent the others back as cores, & all worked well. I was able to drill the spot welds off of both levers, mount the cable wheel from the Nissan to the Suby lever, & it functions beautifully. As I recall, got it all done for under a hundered. Luck with yours, S.

Hi. Doug. I have to agree with eulogious, a few nay sayers doesn't make it a bad thread. I'm watching with much anticipation, & look forward to more pics. I agree, if you move it let us know. Hang in, S.

Hey Doug, glad to hear your still at it. You may have already taken care of it , but thot' I should mention, Heli-coilin' the heads & cam carrier. Over the years I've had a problems with threads pulling pullin' where the cam carrier bolts to the head, (mostly around the exh. port), & even where the cam cover bolts to the carrier. Last time I had it down, I just did em' all. Cheap insurance. More pics? (easy for me to say) Keep up the good work. S.

Hi, I think a lot of seat models are inter-changeable, I'm runnin' XT 6 seats in my 88 GL 10. L rear mount bolt had to be redrilled & spaced up. A friend is running 02 O/B seats in his 80s GL. Think the front mount style & spacing is same on most cars. Hope I'm not leadin' you astray. Luck S.

Hi Doug. I've taken pics. of the build, but not much a computer file. I need to get my wifey to help me post em'. I ran my new header & exh. for a while with Hi temp. paint, & eventually got around to the wrap. What an amazing difference, spools up much faster, had to turn the man. boost controller down a couple of notches. Much lower eng. comp. temps, you can almost hang onto the pipes. If you haven't got injectors yet, give a call to Charlie @ osidetiger.com, he'll fix you up with what ever you need. He sent me the 380s I'm runnin' to my door for rite at $200.00. Included, Reman. injectors w/ flow charts, new spacer blocks, hose sections, clamps, stainless hdwr., elect. connectors w/ pig tails,even solder & shrink tube. Also, a nice guy to work with. I'm findin' your work on the valve train interesting, curious to see how your shim syst. works out. Hang in, S.

Well Doug, I am truly impressed with your efforts, very nice work. I'm still buildin' on my 88 GL 10 T. Gen 3 heads, hogged, match ported & polished. Just built a new merged header, WRX turbo, made a 3"bell mouth dn. pipe, w/2.5" back to a Flowmaster. Saab 9000 TMIC, 380cc injectors, many more mods, but dosen't hold a candle to your project. My little car has become a rocket ship, but don't know how long it will last the way I drive it. Not intended to further GDs rant, but I just acquired a low miles Legacy 2.2 Turbo that I plan to drive till the EA scatters. Keep up the good work, I plan to follow the thread closely. S.

Hi. Folks, I finally saved up enough to spring for a wide band. What a wonderful tool, can now accurately dial in fuel pres. to keep me closer to stoich. I'm feedin' the O2 signal thru the meter & it's running much smoother than with the old one wire. I was able to bring the fuel pres. down almost 5 lbs. & it still runs rich under boost, certainly the best money I,ve spent on the on the old beast in a while. Ya'll hang in, S.

Hi. Thanks guys, I remember reading an old thread some years ago where they, (as I recall,) were switching the 4.11 EJ full gear set into a EA case, using the EJ front diff. section. But then had to cut the input shafts to weld the EA spline section to the EJ shaft. Can't remember who it was, but it seems like they got it to work. The automatic I hadn't considered, tho' I'd hate to give up the dual range. I have, sittin' on the shop floor, the full time EA 3.70 w/ ctr. diff. lock that came in the GL 10 and a EA D/R 3.90, I've run both and had both apart to check em' out. So I have some donor stuff, plus the D/R in my car now. I've got a 2.2 Turbo motor I'm planin' to build as a replacement for the 1.8 when it craters, seems the 4AT in 4.11 or 4.44 mite be the slick set up there. Again, thanks folks. S.

Hi folks. Say, has there been any recent development in the dual-range 4.11 or 4.44 R&P conversion. I've been workin' non-stop, & havn't had time to go searchin'. My daily, is a 88 GL 10 Turbo, with some mods. I've done the 5 lug conv. (late mod. Leg. front, XT6 rear, w/ 240 SX R. calipers, 3" lift, sub frames dropped 1.5", TDO4 W/ Saab 900 TM IC W/ 10" fan, custom header, 3" bellmouth Dn. pipe, 2.5" back. I'm runnin' 16" O.B. wheels, & my Dif. ratios are now so tall, that in the mountains here around Santa Fe. 5th gear is almost useless, & 4th. spins it pretty tight. Any help guys? Thanks S.

Hi, folks. Say, my wife keeps her hand gun locked in the glove box a lot, so the plastic finger pull and other pieces finally fell apart. Any idea how to get into it? We took it by our favorite Suby shop, He said we'll just pull the hinge screws. Couldn't get to them. So, appreciate your input. Thanks, S.