Reveeen

The U-joints are replaceable, they come from a company called Rockford, easiest availibility NAPA. They can be trickey to replace though. There are two things to consider: 1) the driveshaft is a balanced assembly, you must mark the segments so it can be assembled in the same relationship as it came in, or be prepared to pay to balance, 2) the yokes are, well, weak, they will not stand a lot of pounding, or they will collapse/bend. What I do is use a cutter disk in a grinder to slice out the center of the old joint (after marking the driveshaft and yokes so I can re-assemble it the way it was), then I push the caps towards the center with a socket and a "C" clamp, then I clean up the holes (where your new caps will go) with a Dremel tool (mini grinder), then I carefully re-assemble the driveshaft using a "C" clamp, being real careful not to distort the trunions. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

Can you detail what is Ka-put, as in there are more reasons, or symptoms to be considered. Saying your AWD is broken without the details is not the whole story. Does it achieve FWD with the jumper in place? Has the wiring been checked? Has the transmission been regularly serviced? Error codes? It's easy enough to say:"ok let's throw a tailshaft housing at it" (probably that $1000 you speak of) but has the other stuff been eliminated? Because without eliminating the other stuff you aren't fixing anything, just throwing parts at a situation that may, or may not, fix it. I have not been inside my transmission @300,000 miles, I am not saying that I will not get there, and if there I would be happy to report on the cost of the AWD clutch pack, but I did have a poor connection one time (easily fixed) that caused the dreaded TB.

1991 Legacy 2.2T Auto 299,000 miles, original engine-transmission, starting to get a bit tired, oddball stuff wearing out, but should still be at least another 100,000 in it.

Additives interest me, unlike the snake oil vendors of old, modern day makers of additives have to provide safety data sheets. Seafoam: http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_SFTT_US.pdf 1) "Pale Oil" 40-60% (castor oil) 2) "Naphtha" 25-35% (white gas) 3) "IPA" 10-20% (ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL)

1991 Legacy "sport sedan" here, 2.2T, Vegomatic, AWD, limited slip X2. High of 32mpg, low of 8mpg, depends on how it is driven. At the moment, winter, around town, lucky to see around 18mpg. 1992 Loyale 1.8, 4WD, 5 speed, highway: 43mpg. Imperial measure!

As far as I know a "Sterling" was a re-badged Rover (english) for the American market. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sterling_(car) Rover took some twists and turns during their demise so who would actually know what kind of parts were used to make these things.