Reveeen

I can understand wanting to move the thermostat because it is in a spot that is not the nicest to change, but it's been quite a while since thermostats were a regular maintence item, you usually shove one in and forget it (at water pump time?). At 500,000+ miles on a turbocharged 2.2 I have no overheating "issues", and never have, of course maybe I'm anally retentive, I like to catch things before they become a "problem". Let me suggest that if you have to mess with your thermostat more often than you change timing belts you have other things going on there.

Did they also tell you there are (not kidding here) 100 bolts that hold the covers one? I didn't get that far.............somehow I don't *think* changing a bicycle type timing chain, that is well oiled, at 168,000Km (105,000mi) can qualify as attatched to something I would want to own. I suppose if it was cheap enough (the entire car), but they aren't. Considering I've seen over 500,000 miles on 3 Subaru cars so far I can only *guess* they don't expect these to go that far.

I admit to getting curious about Subaru, and timing chains, so I checked with my closest dealer. They are telling me that in the 6 the chain change interval is 168,000Km and is done at the 168,000Km "service". (chain, gears, idlers, guides, gaskets, seals, "O" rings, tensioner) Let me assure you, if you think a couple of belts and pulleys every 100,000Km, or so, is both expensive and time consuming, it has NOTHING on the cost of parts and labour on a Subaru timing chain @ 168,000Km.

the 16 AT TEMP blink at startup indicates that the last time the car was on there was no power to the Duty C solenoid Not exactly, it indicates an associated Duty C failure, it may be the solenoid, it may be the spool that the solenoid controls (causing improper feedback to the TCU by inproper Duty C operation), it could be a wire/connector between the Duty C solenoid (internal/external to the transmission) and the TCU, it could be the housing assembly as described here: http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm The first thing to do is verify when the transmission was last serviced. will torque lock cause the car to stop running? Not that I have ever seen.

The brake booster check valve's function is to hold vacuum in the brake booster (to provide safe braking) in the event that braking is required if engine vacuum somehow dissappears. The valve will either be in-line, or a part of the plastic fitting where the vacuum line attatches to the brake booster. If the brake booster still assists brake application after the engine is shut off the check valve is functioning as it should. If there is no retention of vacuum in the booster after shut down then either the check valve is faulty, or the booster has a vacuum leak. A functioning, or not, check valve should not affect engine running, only a leaking booster will. The "usual" test for loss of vacuum through the booster is to squeeze the vacuum hose with a pair of pliers (if you can't hear it), closely watching a vacuum guage.

How I would do it: Adapt older style (EA82) transmission to 2.2 (EJ22) (selectable 4WD transmission), leave front axles out (but outer CV joints installed to retain the front hubs), make driveshaft (unless you find one that fits), lock in 4WD, and have at it.

im getting 20 miles per gallon....thats doing 80% highway driving and not going over 60-65mph I have no idea where you are getting "highway miles" in Toronto, before I moved away (and for sure on my last visit there) it was "high speed stop and go", rather than "highway miles", and as such 20mpg is ok. I get 36mpg (2.2 AWD turbo auto) "highway", but in Toronto I get 20mpg if I'm lucky, VERY lucky, 400/ 401/403, you call it.

Hey! Thanks for the link(s), either way it looks like $40 to me ($42 from local dealer, or $10+$16 shipping, +15% GST (group sex tax) +duty (as it is a Japanese OEM part) +$5 to collect the GST and duty). If I get it in my hand and can cross it to something intelligent I will post back! And Subaru wonders why car sales are slow, between this kind of "stuff", and recommended timing chain change @168K on the H-6, I *guess* they just aren't "getting it"?

Does anybody know a part number for a 3rd party auto transmission oil filter? What I'm talking about: 1991 Legacy auto, with the external transmission filter kit (# 31099AA091) as can be seen here: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/transfilter.jpg Why I'm asking: My dealer lists the kit @ $42 out the door (with taxes), digging around in the parts book there appears to be a filter availaible for that kit (sorry I didn't get the number) for $105. This makes no sense to me.

is there another option I'm not thinking of. I'm kinda wondering this myself............... Ford Escort Ignition (2400) used in Subaru EJ-22 Conversion. http://www.prachapter34.com/converting_engines.htm And on the same page an intake for a carb, or maybe adapt a SPFI of some description to the EJ22 intake and fire it with the existing ECU? I may never go here, but I've been *thinking* about it.

It is my understanding that this is far from a "bolt-in". A JDM twin turbo set-up is from a car that is set-up for left hand drive, you have a right hand drive car, so I would expect "trouble" clearing the steering shaft. I am not saying it can't be done, but I would prepare myself to have to fabricate some parts.

This fella here sure wants rid of one............. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73434

Generally I have found that the factory recommended tire pressure is a place to start. Where you go from there depends on how the tires wear, center wearing - too much pressure, sides wearing - too little pressure. Without even wear accross the face of the tire you will soon be buying another set. True, you can pick up a few mpg by over inflating, but you will have to balance the fuel savings against the cost of a new set of tires.

you've obviously never done it. Could have fooled me............... This is the easiest way to do it, or at least I *think* this is the easiest way to do it, maybe someone can tell me differently. 1) remove driveshaft assembly 2) The Subaru driveshaft is a balanced unit, if you don't put it back together EXACTLY how it came apart it will need balancing, to avoid this you mark all the flanges on either side of the U-joint (I use a center punch). 3) you get your new U-joints (from wherever and eyeball them up for size) 4) you cut the center of the old U-joint out (a torch, a sawzall, I use a grinder with a cutter disk) 5) The trunions (where the U-joint caps go) on Subaru drive shafts are VERY soft and will NOT stand a lot (ANY) of BF hammer work (this is why you cut the center out) gently tap the remaining U-joint pieces out (inwards) of the trunions. 6) using a Dremel (or other rorary tool) clean out the holes (where the caps go) of the burr from staking the old joint in, and any rust/scale build-up, don't go hog wild here, you are just cleaning up, not opening up. 7) install the new U-joint pressing the new caps in GENTLY, you do not want to collapse/bend the soft trunions (I use a big C-clamp, a vise, or hammer will collapse the trunions). 8) install the U-joing cap retaining clip on the cap inside the trunion (this is going to tell the tale here, if you were too rough with the trunions the clips won't fit because you bent the trunions. I have seen guys bend the trunions back with a piece of pipe, but the *trick* to this whole thing is not to have to mess with this, possably causing the driveshaft to run out of true). This is not a typical BF hammer U-joint job, it requires you to "go lightly" and pay attention.

Last winter I had a young fella smash the front off of his Dodge Neon on the back of my old station wagon (I was stopped at a red light). The Dodge was towed away, my bumper cover sustained a scratch. I do not leave my home with the intention, or worry, about being in an accident, and if I did I would seek help.

what are the chances of it actually being a head gasket issue? Depends on the mileage, though if it has been "cooked" once or twice the chances of needing a head gasket(s) increase. There are many things that can cause overheating, especially in a 10+ year old car. Is it worth it if I get the car under $1K Reality check: if the car is not driveable it is scrap. To keep said car from heading to a junkyard you are going to have to pay slightly more than a junkyard would pay for it. ONLY you can determine what the car is worth to you and using your instinct bid a price for the car you can live with. If it is your intention not to personally fix this car (pay a garage to do the work) there would be no trouble spending in the order of $2000 for fixing. How much is the car worth now?

Strangely enough, "Brasso" works too, just have to repeat monthly.

Usually the life of a timing chain depends on service interval and how the vehicle was driven. 120K on a well oiled bicycle type chain is rather dissappointing considering Saab/Volvo seem to get around 200,000 miles (not k) on a similar type set-up (I have a Saab coming into timing chain replacement time @ 325,000, it's just starting to get noisy, parts cost roughly $500). I have done Volvo chains at around 200,000 miles (V-6).

For years motorcycle guys have been able to buy oil cooler thermostats that cause the oil to by-pass the cooler if too cold. I have never bought one: 1) because they are expensive. 2) I get nervous adding stuff that could break down in vital engine systems. I *think* that maybe a remote filter kit with the filter mounted in an area that recieves air flow might do the trick.

It should. The listing has other cars that the remote filter kit fits, so I would *think* you could turn up something at a junkyard that would fit, maybe a Ford 2.3 Turbo? When doing external oil lines make sure to use "proper type" hoses.

I can't speak to US spec cars, but mine has an oil cooler.

Something like this: http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/subaru~oil_filter_housing~parts.html ($60) plus an oil cooler in-line? Plus too, you get a listing of engines (that may, may not have a oil cooler installed) that you can keep an eye peeled for junkyard parts. I wonder how the temperature would change with a large remote filter that had some air flow around it.

Far from being the "brightest light" on the planet I simply fail to understand the U-Joint "problem". You simply replace as needed............... These guys make them: http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm And will sell you one on-line. BUT if you are in a "big hurry" you would go down to your local NAPA store and buy one (a Rockford U-Joint in a NAPA box) and pay a little bit more, but you will get it faster.

I would *think* you would go with the size of rims that would match the type of tire you wish to run. For example: I am kind of partial to LT tires, specifically 85 series 10 ply tires, that seem to be availaible to me for the best price/size in tires that require a 16" rim. So my "choice" is 16" rims, because I'm buying rims anyway, but if I already owned rims that I could fit a tire I wanted then I would choose something different in a tire.

Before spending money on a coil I would check my distributor shaft/bushings for play. Then put a vacuum guage on it and see if that tells you anything.