Reveeen

It seems Subaru is making these cars less user friendly all the time. It would seem that they are forgetting their customers in favour of the pursuit of wealth (much like everybody else making cars). Anyone know if those 5eats are made by Jatco ? It wouldn't surprise me, their customer list is fairly extensive, if you poke around their website there is some fairly expensive iorn using Jatco boxes. NISSAN MOTOR CO.,LTD. MITSUBISHI MOTORS CORPORATION MAZDA MOTOR CORPORATION FUJI HEAVY INDUSTRIES LTD. MITSUBISHI FUSO TRUCK & BUS CORPORATION ISUZU MOTORS LIMITED NISSAN DIESEL MOTOR CO.,LTD. SUZUKI MOTOR CORPORATION BMW AG VW AG LAND ROVER GROUP LTD HYUNDAI MOTOR COMPANY KIA MOTORS CORPORATION JAGUAR CARS LTD. GM DAEWOO AUTO & TECHNOLOGY COMPANY LONDON TAXIS INTERNATIONAL FORD-WERKE AG RENAULT SAMSUNG MOTORS CO.,LTD. FORD LIO HO MOTOR CO.,LTD. HYUNDAI MOTOR INDIA LTD. CHINA MOTOR CO.,LTD. PERUSAHAAN OTOMOBIL NASIONAL BERHAD (PROTON) SHENYANG BRILLIANCE JINBEI AUTOMOBILE CO.,LTD SAIC CHERY AUTOMOBILE CO.,LTD SOUTH EAST MOTOR CO.,LTD HYUNDAI POWERTECH CHANGAN FORD AUTOMOBILE CO., LTD. DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION RENAULT S.A.S.

Am thinking that the splines on the out put of my trans are worn and are cause of a loose fit to new half shaft Well, never say never, but I would be more inclined to believe that if the output splines were excessively worn it would be eating the weakest part, the roll pin, no? I *think* we should try to be more specific here, each "half shaft" has 2 CV joints, an inner and an outer. Is it blowing up the CV joint, or just tearing the boot. Inner, or outer? What condition are your motor mounts in? Where did you get replacement parts from?

the right direction for finding a service manual I *guess* you could buy one, but a fellow with a sharp eye might locate something just surfing the internet. There is a bunch of Subaru aircraft stuff here: http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm That can make for an interesting read. There is some interesting reading here too: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm Articles and pictures that can get a fellow out of trouble and maybe something for a fellow with a sharp eye. if you have any quirks to warn me about The whole car is "quirky", you either love them, or hate them.

X2 on wheel cylinder being toast http://media.spiritofradio.ca/Songs|Streetband+%2D+Toast.mp3?0E09AAA7A4FD66F5

Looking for current draw: What I do is, with a fully charged battery, disconnect the -, and between it and the battery terminal I put a test light. The light should light very dimly (because of stuff like your clock/radio memory, a "bright" light tells you there is a draw. If brightly lit start pulling fuses/fuesable links until the light stops being so bright, then you have isolated the curcuit that is drawing. As far as what is causing the draw without testing you can only guess.

Either way.............. I would pull the engine, but if you don't want to, or don't own an engine hoist, then going in from the other end is fine.

I have been to several parts stores asking about the coupler The trouble is you are not buying a part, you are buying a "tool". My first choice, though the most expensive, would be to ask my Snap-On man. If you go to a "parts store" you want to look in their air conditioning parts catalogue, that just happens to have a selection of tools in it, I'm *thinking* Everco, who happens to be part of the Standard Motor Parts Group, though I'm sure there are others (Fairview?, Parker?), depending where you are and who you talk to. You *must* remember that a short time ago refrigeration "stuff" came under Enviormental protection and the sale of parts/tools is only supposed to happen to licenced trades people.

10mm wrench, flat screwdriver, philips screwdriver. Un-do hose clamps, un-plug rad fan/temp sensor, un-do top brackets, pull out from the top. You might want to take a couple of new 1 1/4 hose clamps. The rad locates on rubbers that are installed over pins on the bottom, make sure to move the rubbers over to the new rad. Probably one of the easiest rads you will ever change.

Each and every Subaru has what is called a "knock sensor". When your engine "pings" the knock sensor signals the engine computer to retard the timing. If your engine happens to "ping" (for whatever reason, be it "regular gas", or poor mechanical condition) and it finds itself running in a ignition retarded state your gas mileage drops by approximately 25%. It matters not what the gas costs, you would be wise, and $$$$ ahead, to run the gas your vehicle calls for. BTW: Premium gas here costs (today) $1.31/litre, or 1.31X4 ($5.25). I kinda have it figured that if I want to drive my car it really doesn't matter what gas costs because I would be riding my bicycle, or walking, otherwise.

I know about the old school vaporiser/venturi systems. That's about all I see here. Since gas will hit $5.00 within a couple years and stay there Gas costs that here/now, though the cost of propane (here) has mirrored the cost of gasoline, there being 0 (no) advantage to convert anything. The only way an "advantage" can be had here is to run your car on portable tanks (illegal in Canada), as the filling stations tack the road tax on auto propane just the same as gasoline.

what usually goes bad in inner tierods? You are right in assuming it is little more than a ball in a socket, it seems that road shocks get transmitted directly into this socket causing the ball to become not so round and the joint loosening. I have seen call for removal of rack to change inner tierods, can this be done on the car? I have done mine twice "in car", with careful boot removal (un-clip and fold back, big end), and simply un-locking the lock (straightening a flattened washer), and un-screwing the socket from the rack end (it's threaded into the end of the rack), re-assembly being the reversal of removal. I add CV joint grease to the ball end before sealing up (the water soliuble kind so as not to rot the boot). I might add that I have never had to replace rack bushings, but my engine is more or less leak free, and oil has never gotten at them.

On your front struts, the lower mount (the two bolts) should have a "cam" bolt in the upper hole that works against the strut mount flange to make this adjustment (the upper hole in the strut is, or should be slightly slotted allowing an adjustment). You typically would loosen the nuts on both bolts and make the adjustment by turning the top bolt. You will not get enough/any adjustment if: 1) you trashed the cam on the top bolt by inproper installation (by tightening the bolt instead of the nut, trashing the cam/mount flange) 2) if your ball joints are out to lunch There should be enough adjustment there to handle a 2" lift.

I myself would lean towards the inner tie rod (*thinking* if the rack was loose you would see/feel it on both sides). You don't mention your car's mileage, I'm on my second set of inner tie rods @ 300,000 mi, maybe if you can snag a helper to move your wheel and lie under there and see exactly what is going on (don't forget to securely support your car while under there). Of course, it goes without saying, after replacing any front end parts an alignment is in order.

The AA guy was talking about extending the struts, from what I gathered it was cutting an old strut to fit over top of a new one (the bottom) with the appropriate spacer/block (length) inside, and clamping it (maybe with a motorcycle muffler clamp (or two), or exhaust band clamp). I kinda *think* that I am going to try this with mine. I'm *thinking* that this method should keep the camber somewhat close. There was also talk of making/using cam bolts to mount the control arm? I have no idea if there is enough "meat" on the sub-frame/control arm to do this. In days gone by, we used to lengthen the control arms on Minis (by welding) by 1/2" to give negative camber, so they could/would "handle".

Starter too!

Can we cut off 1/3 of a coil??? You can IF: the spring is not tapered and/or otherwise not going to index into it's mounting by cutting it down. I have heated a spring in the past to good effect (with a torch, heating only one coil). Is lowering a real good idea? I know my stock height Legacy Sport sedan is quite low enough for me (and doesn't drag, I'm sure it would 2" lower).

if you don't know how long the boot has been torn, it's hard to assess how much dirt, etc may have gotten into the joint and is starting to wear parts. Hint: totally disassemble and clean all the parts, inspect EVERYTHING, any deformity, or marking, of "the stuff" in there means new joint time (or at least new/different parts, to assemble a working/quiet joint). Place the supplied grease in the joint as you assemble it, squeezing grease at an assembled joint then trying to fit the boot doesn't work, and doesn't clean it out, not unless you are very lucky. It was a real mess I can attest to it not being a situation where a "hard collar shirt" and tie are appropriate wear. You need rags, lots of rags, and you WILL be throwing them out. This is dirtier than front end work, but spending $12 for a new boot, rather than buying a new/re-built axle has it's own appeal.

It seems to me, that some belt manufacturers kinda miss the mark, as far as marking the timing belt for installation. The last one I had here (from Beck-Arnley) seemed to be marked in a random fashon, so as to cover many models? I went with the engine timing marks, rotating the crankshaft twice (two turns) to verify correct installation (cams turn 1/2 crankshaft speed). Worked for me here on my '91 Legacy, though I admit to it taking 3 tries until I was "happy" (I was getting tired of collapsing the tensioner by the time I was done).

Considering a "boot kit" (boot, clamps, and replacement grease) costs me $12, I know I learned how to do it myself in a hurry.

Anybody who would pay more than $10 for a junky caravan wheelwould be smoking something, no?

300,000 miles+ on original regularly serviced transmission.

Yes, they are all conventional thread.

Like caravan and voyager? Is the offset the same? Yes, and yes.................. Virtually all (though there are some exceptions) 5 bolt front wheel drive Dodge/Chrysler vehicle wheels are the same, or will fit in the same place. The "grand Caravans" (the extra length ones, and only some of them, not all) have oversize brakes so there is extra room for an increased brake caliper size (though the rotors are the same). This way you can get cheap 14", 15", and 16" wheels. BUT: if your Subaru has oversize brakes (eg: Sport Sedan) and/or came with 15" wheels (well, the oversize brake models all came with 15" wheels, or bigger) the 14" wheels won't clear the brakes.

I have no interest in 17" wheels, but it's cheaper than buying new steelies If cost is a concern (and when isn't it?) it seems to me that Dodge mini van wheels (you know the ones where the transmission craps out on a regular basis leaving yards and driveways full of Dodge junk) will fit your Subaru. The bolt pattern is the same (5X100) and the offset is about right. They are commonly availaible in 14" and 15", and unless you own a Subaru with oversize brakes, they are worth a look.

I find that sticking the front of my car up on a pair of el-cheapo ramps it both saves my back and I don't have to bleed anything...............