Reveeen

I have a '91 sedan that was in need of speakers, and my favourite junk store (Princess Auto) had 6 1/2 Sony speakers on sale. They fit in the back (rear deck) but the speakers themselves were too deep to go into the doors and have an operating window(s).

This ia what is availaible in Canada: http://www.crosscanadaparts.com/cgi-bin/crosscanada/product_list.html?img_num=6705 Prices are list, your dealer may sell for less. Assuming inner fender for rear, there are 3 methods of repair: 1) hand form steel, welding in place 2) remove inner trim and clean to bare metal with a grinder and lay fiberglass in there. 3) use spray foam, generally called "draft stop" at building supply stores However you decide to repair it applying a heavy coat of undercoating is in order.

14" 5lugX100mm

cost me $2000 to do the entire rear fender, with a OEM fender from subaru, spend $700 each side, and $600 for labour, LOTS of welding etc. http://www.crosscanadaparts.com/cgi-bin/crosscanada/product_list.html?img_num=6711 Front fenders List $152.15 CDN each, (cost is less), as I said the part of the rear that rusts doesn't seem to rust on the front, the fenders you take off of the front you panal cut the wheel opening out of them and weld them into the rear quarters (L Front to R Rear, R Front to L Rear). If you just need the lower rear front fender piece you can steal a piece from any Legacy fender to 2000 joining it under the side moulding. Maybe your car is rustier, mine was not. I have no idea what my cost was, I own my own welding machines, a metal brake, sanders, sand blaster, spray guns, I just go out and "play", being an old retired (retarded?) fart. So what if I manage to get $1200 wound into a Legacy Sport Sedan (*thinking* $1200=3 "real" car payments, so go out to the yard and play drive car more than 3 months=bonus, or "free" driving)

There is nothing between the two cars that is a "bolt-on", everything that you try to fit from the EA to the EJ will have to be modified.

It all depends what you mean by "fit"?

It did have ABS and all the options just REAL rusty! Is it a Sport Sedan? (turbocharged, spoiler, factory 15" wheels, oversize brakes) And just how "real rusty"? For it's age you would expect to have to put aftermarket fenders on the front, the rear quarters would have been "gibbled" up with bondo (but you should be able to salvage pieces out of the replaced front fenders) where the bumper contacts the quarters would be rusty/holed, if the sun roof was leaking the floors would need attention. A '91 is 16 years old. If turbocharged it has the desirable EJ22T and oversize brakes. Maybe not worth $750, I bought my sport sedan for $400.

4 speed auto, 2.2 (won't hit high gear until the transmission oil warmed up, 70F) If the rear wheel areas are bad (on the outside) when you replace the front fenders with aftermarket, you buzz the wheel arch pieces out of the fenders you take off. A "newer" fender piece will fit on the older fender (lower rear), just join the two under the moulding. The metal in these cars is thin, any welding of panals has to be done carefully/quickly. I *think* all the sun roofs leak. There is a dealer bullitin on the fix.

You are still not telling anybody anything. In the "newer" Subaru cars there are 2 different 4 cylinder engines, the 2.2 and the 2.5, you can "spin" a belt off a 2.2 with no engine damage, it will leave you stranded, but you won't cause ANY engine damage. A 2.5 is a different animal, "spin" the belt off of a 2.5, and you are into replacing bent valves (engine out) at the very least. The timing belt tensioner is a small spring loaded hydraulic dampened device, it just sits there, it can't make any noise, but it can leak. You can see if it is leaking oil (around the rod) when it is out in your hand. You would replace it if leaking. Your crankshaft driven timing belt runs around idler pulleys and your water pump. When you change such a belt the first time (roughly 60,000 miles) you would feel the idler pulleys (checking them for wobble and ANY roughness in the bearing(s)), you would also feel the water pump pulley for any similar signs, and change anything that failed inspection. On your second belt change (roughly 120,000 miles) you would routinely change all the idelers and water pump at the same time you do the belt. Again you would inspect the tensioner and replace it at any sign of leakage. The remainder of your car engine's belt changing life should be spent in the same order, a "simple" belt change, followed by a "major" belt change. Just today I rolled up 360,000 miles on my 2.2 Turbo, I do it this way and it seems to work.

The ones in my doors are all the same, but you must remember I have a US built car, yours might be different.

Another great one is the Eriba Puck. http://www.automotiveleisure.co.uk/page52.html I hadn't seen those, beautifully finished inside, not keen on the pop-up top though, something like that would be a never ending source of trouble (at least if I owned it).

I wish they would make one with the same charm, and a little less tear-drop. There was a trailer, seen very occasionally in these parts (and rented out by U-Haul at one time) called the Boler. Out of production now you can see what I mean here: http://www.geocities.com/bolerama/ Boler sorta got re-born/copied as the Trillium. I don't know the specific details, but late Bolers were identical to early Trilliums, then, as things are bound to change, so did the Trillium to what is availaible today: http://www.trilliumtrailers.com/outback.php Both tipping the scales at around 1350lbs with a tongue weight of around 50lbs (of course tongue weight is adjustable due to loading)

You could do a "suck-through" carb, though I don't know what you expect to use for a blower. I have a guy I know with a crap 2.2 turbo Dodge that seems to make 3-4 scrap engines a year.

You are a little "light" on the details.................. If you, or someone is already in there there should be no additional labour cost, going in there "cold" I would try to sneak it in (being careful, not taking the rad out etc, just unbolt the cover and installing it) maybe 2 hours. Can it wait? At best it might leave you stranded + towing to get it fixed, at worst: engine out, valve job (this depends on the details).

It is, well, difficult to "blow-through" a carb. Most carbs require "normal" pressure through the venturi to work right and the float bowl(s) have to be vented to the atsmophere. Now, I'm not saying you can't do this (by modifying your existing carb, or buying a special blow-through carb) but it is going to take a skill level beyond the normal backyard type of thing. BTW: in the late 80's, early 90's, Masarati, on their bi-turbo V-6, used a weber set-up in a blow-through situation. This might be "the ticket", if you can find/afford one, you would want the "box", carb, and all associated hardware. If you go SPFI I *think* a standard set-up (moving the PCV valve) would stand under 10lbs of boost. At the end of the day, turbocharging/supercharging a stock motor, simply wouldn't be worth the expense. I can't see in excess of 100hp, but I can see in excess of $500, even using junkyard parts. Maybe an EJ22 conversion?

Each and every car, as to the ability to tow it, has to be looked at individually. An XT6 is an auto transmissioned AWD car. In this case putting the front wheels on a dolly takes care of that end, but leaving the rear wheels on the ground (without disconnecting the driveshaft) still drives the AWD drive unit in the transmission, potentially causing a "problem" in the transmission. It is not a good idea to tow a Subaru AWD with any wheels on the ground.

BUT: the heights of different width tires ARE different. Look: it's your car, you WILL do what you like, but the AWD unit is: 1) expensive to fix. 2) well, not fragile, but not "bulletproof", given the opportunity to fail, it WILL. As close as I can figure: 215/60/14= 24.16" diameter 225/60/14= 24.63" diameter

In the area you describe, and in addition to what was already mentioned (thermostat, water pump) there are a couple of small hoses that direct water to other parts of your engine. Of course you could get "lucky" like I did when I bought my Legacy, the idiot in there before that changed the water pump, managed to strip several of the bolts that hold the water pump to the block (steel bolts, alumnium block, guess what was stripped?) BTW: in this situation it only leaked anti-freeze when cold, when hot I guess stuff expanded enough not to leak. In any case, what you have there is a "take apart and see" situation, but there is a lot of stuff in that area that could be leaking, some not so bad, some really no fun.

If I'm right in believing your Subaru XT6 is a 4 wheel drive (I don't know for certain) then you WANT 4 identical matching tires on ALL 4 corners ALL at the same air pressure.

A FINE looking little trailer, of course being an Airstream, it is a little bit over the top. I didn't catch the total weight, didn't look hard enough, I guess. My tastes are lighter/smaller, but to each his/her own. Good effort! More to my taste: http://www.tab-rv.com/index.php (and about 75% easier on the wallet, of course the quality and useage/usefulness is not the same, but I do know you can pull one of these)

Typically, nothing. Short trip driving (avoiding full warm-up), especially in cold weather, promotes crankcase condensation. With some luck what you are seeing is this condensation "cooking out". Of course this is provided you don't have anti-freeze "dissappearing" out of the rad.

Determine your transportation needs. I know this is a Subaru forum, but if your needs are for a small effecient car, a Justy, or VW Diesel might be a better starting point. Determine your reliance on your automobile. Do you have an alternate means of transportation? Is your car necessary? (I will assure you reliability suffers as you modify a vehicle) Determine your skill level. Realistically appraise your availaible skill level and facilities to carry out a major automotive project. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Ok, let's hold it right here. If you are looking for primary transportation with limited transportation alternatives the wise choice would be to go out and buy the most fuel effecient vehicle that fits your transportation needs and drive it. Modified vehicles, or in this case, self built energy effecient vehicles are traditionally unreliable. Check the web sites, these guys have multiple vehicles availaible to them for "emergency" use. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Those number may be accurate, they mention "shipping in", meaning made in Japan? I know mine was assembled in Indiana and therefore not one of those mentioned.

I am in FULL agreement, but first *think* it best to try and figure out who is telling us lies, and who is telling us the truth. On the surface electric seems acceptable, we are being told it is acceptable, but digging a bit below the surface, it is clearly a lie, and nothing more than this year's flavour of political lip service to the enviormentalists. I don't know about you, but my Loyale gives me 43mpg (Imperial), and compared to a SUV with one passenger, or a non-working pick-up truck (both giving around 12mpg at best), I do not feel quite so bad. At this time, because nobody is really offering anything truly "green", I am only prepared to do with the least, energy wise, that is economically feasable. You seem prepared to make more of a energy commitment than I am, and I applaud you for this, but I urge you to make your commitment a wise one.

"at the moment, grid power is about 95% natural gas" I beg to differ, though SOME electricity comes from natural gas, and of course SOME comes from water power (we must not forget Niagara Falls), I *think* you will find when you consider the other sources of electric: coal, oil (specifically "bunker C") and nuclear, going "electric" isn't really as "green" as we have been told it is. http://www.cec.org/news/details/index.cfm?varlan=english&ID=2611 Report For Michigan, 2003 latest availaible, Electric utilities: http://www.takingstockquery.org/index.php?varlan=english&ascdesc=d&orderedby=default&output=results&skip_to_rec=0&report_type=state&nresults=10&annee03=1&geographic=MI&chemical=All&newoldb=49&sumtotrelon=1&sumtotair=1&sumtotwat=1&sumtotuij=1&sumtotland=1&sumtotreltsf=1&x=78&y=10 I don't know about where you live, but a few years ago there was a big alternate fuels push just north of you. Many vehicles were converted to run propane/natural gas, now that the funding for this push has ended, the junkyards north of you are full of this conversion stuff, that can be had for peanuts. Personally I am not keen on natural gas (low BTU), but propane, and a propane conversion could be reasonable. BUT you have to consider the cost of the propane (you get about 80% the power of a litre gasoline out of a litre of propane, in their liquid states). The big bonus of propane as a fuel is virtually no oil contamination. Maybe a few BBQ tanks in the back of your wagon might be in your future?