Reveeen

Some local snow plow types run dual alternators to keep the second battery completely isolated from their vehicle.

350CFM is too large for general use on an 1800cc engine, never mind a poorly flowing Subaru engine, under certain conditions it would work ok, but not under general driving use.

With the smallest flowing 350cfm I would *think* it would be rather large for a 1800cc (or less) engine? Anyhow: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_755536_-1_10271 $314 each

No, nothing is "wrong" with you, there is little doubt your EA82 is a dated design and you find yourself in Subaru heaven driving an XT6, but once Bucky is fixed up and "roadable" again, and you drive him, all those good memories will flood back in, and you will fall in love with him all over again. I had the very same thing happen to me when I picked up my "newest" Loyale, and believe me it's "tough", but the memory thing got going, and I just can't wait until all the snow goes, and I can spend many hours bringing it back to it's former glory.

Do the whole job, VC gaskets, grommets, and seals. If your engine has gone far enough, or seen enough heating/cooling cycles, to require VC gaskets then you can almost count on the grommets and seals to be in the same condition as the VC gaskets and need replacement.

A standard solenoid will cook in short order, you want a continuous duty solenoid, if your auto parts store doesn't have one they can order you one. Make it switchable, and use a diode (from a RV dealer) to handle the charging.

Having visited this planet for over 1/2 a century, and having lost friends, relatives, and loved ones, over the years to many different causes, there is only one conclusion I can come up with. When it's your turn, it's your turn, there is absolutely nothing you can do about it. It's kinda like being in the check-out at the super market, we are all in the same line, it's just some are a little bit ahead of you, some are behind. Now, I'm not anti-safety, but somehow I have it figured no amount of BS mechanical devices make up for "proper" driver education and training, the forgotten element it seems, in every safety discussion.

Well! I'm about 5 hours north of you (currently in the middle of a tropical snow storm) and "the big plan" here is to part out my front wheel drive '88. I'm sure there is more than enough brake stuff here to get you going, including, but not limited to, a rear axle assembly. The "upside": Pick and don't pay, I have no use for the brake stuff you need. The "downside": About 1 foot of snow down Leave me a rolling car (meaning: put your old junk back on) I suggest you leave this for future reference, it is really too miserable out here to work outside (though it is above freezing today, due to go back to -20 Monday, I was hoping to get some stuff done outside myself today) and when the weather moderates a bit you are welcome to what you might need, or if desperate be my guest.

While hardly an "expert", I have found over the years you get your best cable/lever action when you try to get your stuff working at "right angles" (90 degrees). If you follow a line described by your cable (try laying a ruler along it) the lever should drop off the line at 90 degrees to it's pivot point. In your situation too, because of the short unsupported cable run (because when the action of the lever takes place it operates in an arc) it is also helpful to allow the cable mount to pivot a bit, maintaining that magic 90 degrees, allowing full mechanical advantage. If I found myself in a similar situation (and I will be shortly) I am going to use a PTO control type of cable, instead of a morse type, because the situation does not require a fully supported cable (or such rigid "positive" action) requiring the use of a pivoting mount. Without a pivoting mount in this situation you are fighting the cable more than you are making the shift.

I posted this link before, I do know these guys and have done business with them for 20+ years, and can pretty well guarantee if you approach them with the specifics of what you are trying to accomplish you WILL be pleased. http://www.euro-drive.com/

I own and drive daily a '91 Sport Sedan with 322,000 on the clock, I expect 500,000 with "proper" maintence. Look at it as an investment with 100,000 on the clock it's barely broken in. If I was to go out and buy a new car, monthly payments would be probably in the $300 range, so what is a couple of hundred here and there? I do my own work and buy parts at trade price.

Now that most, well not most, but how about "a lot" of cars come with a timing belt, the sensable thing would be to pay one kind of price for a car with full service records, and another kind of price for a car with no, or limited, service records. In your case timing belt breakage causes no internal engine damage, but in most cases it does, so the prudent thing to do is ALWAYS change that unknown timing belt. Again the prudent thing to do is to change the idlers, water pump, and carefully inspect the belt tensioner (for leakage) while "there". I guess it all comes down to if you are into this thing for the long haul, or "just visiting".

The "beauty" of these things is that they are simple and reasonably "bulletproof", they were designed that way, and more you "improve" them, the more unreliable they get. Look, if Subaru had wanted, they could have made 15,000 RPM engines with overhead camshafts, Honda was doing just that in motorcycles in the '60's, the technology was there, but instead they built what they did for a reason, the same reason we love these obsolete lumps. Just my .02

The Motorcraft/Holly carbs were built under licence from Weber and almost identical to the carbs found on Vegas (the 2bbl Vegas). Out of the box the jetting for a 2000/2300 should be close (these were smog engines), though the carb from a 2000 should be a closer copy to a Weber (completely Metric, if memory serves). An English built Capri will have an OEM Weber on it. I know you guys like these, but really I can't think of a worse carb to put on anything, and if I found myself wanting a carb for a 1600/1800 engine I would *think* SU, or a pair of SUs, but to each his/her own. The 2.6L Mitsubishi/Dodge engine uses a Hitachi progressive 2 bbl much like the original (only bigger, again if memory serves). When increasing the size of a carb on any engine you have to be careful, as the bigger you go (more availaible air flow), the quicker it will lean out if you don't use that air flow at WOT (wide open throttle), so you may find yourself having to richen the mixture.

I hate to say this but, I don't see stopping cylinder movement with a "special" head gasket, maybe welding the block, or pinning the cylinder to the head, but gaskets alone can't be designed to stop movement. It's the "hot" side too, pinning wouldn't be a good idea, maybe increase the cooling in that area? or make the cool side run hotter?

Most jets are stamped with the orifice diameter in metric or English units. On a metric carburetor, a number such as 120 means 1.2 mm.; on most U.S. units, 50 indicates .050 inch. There are exceptions; check with a carburetor shop to be sure. Convert millimeters to inches by dividing by 25.4. (from: http://running_on_alcohol.tripod.com/id26.html ) If I was increasing, or drilling to increase the jet size, I would fit a numbered drill into an existing jet to get the numbered size, then increase as I saw fit. If you are working with a metric carb any jets you are going to get that fit correctly are metric too, so I'm not really understanding the need to convert, but the above formula will work for you. In improper idle conditions the "usual" is to adjust the air bleed rather than jetting.

A few times (a very few) I have seen power boosters that get moisture in them act as you describe, I'm 50+ years old and I've seen it maybe 1/2 a dozen times. Usually when a master cylinder fails when cold you end up with no pedal.

Ahhhhhhhh a semi-tropical -18 here this AM (with wind chill -30) 4 degrees is "working in the yard weather" and not likely to be seen for another 2-3 months!

1991 Legacy (June 1990 manufacture date) EJ22T 4EAT automatic. @322,000 miles I am not quite convinced I own "a bad one", and I am not convinced there is better, though I would not mind trying a 6 cylinder. The only "bad" thing that has happened to this car since new was the idiots that owned/serviced it from 180,000 miles to 210,000 miles.

FIRST: you have to determine the one you have is "bad", as I said earlier, a bad knock sensor will throw a code, then you would unplug it from the harness (connector up by your throttle body) and check it to ground, you want to see 400-800ohms, but wait, you are not done yet, if the value is not within spec the sensor grounds through it's body to the engine block, so maybe checking the bolt tightness and/or cleaning under it will bring it within spec. It is a go, no go, situation, there is not an adjustable value here, so maintence replacement is not a consideration other than wasting money. IF you have a code (check engine light on) then you potentially have something to fix, no light, no "fix". I *guess* I'm trying to say "if your computer doesn't "see" a fault then there is nothing that a new knock sensor is going to fix", look elsewhere for your potential lost fuel mileage.

A knock sensor failure will put the "check engine" light on. The knock sensor is bolted to the block kinda right of center (standing in front looking in) directly below the intake manifold. They look like the one pictured here with the wire attatched: http://rb-k.bosch.de/en/start/sensorik/kopfsensor.html I *suspect* that Subaru buys them from Bosch, because there is no other reason they are "crazy expensive", in excess of $200 for my Legacy, while the same damm thing for my Saab is $80. The one on my Legacy went electrically "open" and had a crack you could see in the housing. When this happens your timing auto-retards and will cost you fuel mileage. I measured a new one @500 ohms and used a resistor to fool the computer, this is something I don't recommend, it is there for a reason, but I always use premium fuel, so I do not feel threatened. It is more likely that the current cold weather is fooling with your gas mileage, keeping your engine cold longer, than a knock sensor failure.

To be *honest* I'm not too sure about back spacing, but it seems to me that 5lug X100mm is a standard Chrysler bolt pattern, why would you adapt? This might be useful to determine what might fit your situation: http://www.alloyguide.co.uk/index.htm

The wire for the fuel pump can be picked up under the rear seat, in an emergency (I say in an emergency, as this isn't real safe) you can steal enough current from the running lights to run the fuel pump and get you home. Just turn the lights on, after some "creative butchery", and away you go..................

These guys will build you ANYTHING you want: http://www.euro-drive.com/performance.htm

The way I always measured piston to valve clearence is to assemble one side without the head gasket using lumps of modeling clay on the piston tops, spin it over, pull the head, measure the thinist section of clay, add the thickness of a compressed head gasket and now you have a number to work with.