Reveeen

Maybe read up on the "mickey mouse gasket"? Gasket/seal, maybe a set of lifters, seems easier (cheaper? faster?) than an EJ swap

Subaru in Canada has always been a "problem". Other than the Brat, there was really nothing too different to the average buyer from the early Mitsubishi cars sold by Chrysler Canada, other than price (Subarus were more expensive). They both rusted out about the same and they were plagued by crummy dealers (the Subaru dealers here were mostly "dodgey" and Chrysler mechanics wanted nothing to do with "Jap crap", I can remember getting paid 2.1 to put a rear main seal in a Colt as a young apprentice). So, both kinda got tagged as cars not to buy. I wanted nothing to do with a Subaru until I bought my first, an '88 DL wagon, for $90, drove it all over for very little money. The few that were sold here either rust got, or "bad" repairs got. While Maine and Vermont are full of Subaru cars (every second driveway it seems) there are very few in eastern Canada, the west being a different story, there seems to be quite a few out west, but the climate is a lot more temperate. Dealers here are "hit and miss", though they seem to be trying more, aftermarket parts here are virtually non-existant.

I looked at military type/jeep tires for my Loyale and decided they weren't for me. (read hydroplaning), instead I went for 215/85/16's with nice deep lugs for $100 a pop, radial, load range E (10 ply).

I think almost any honest mechanic will tell you that they have had a wheel or two come off a customers car Ah, no. After a period of citizens taking exception to getting killed/maimed by flying truck wheels (and the law suits and wholesale lifting of mechanics licences) I *think* you will find a LOT of mechanics almost anal about wheel mounting.

is it possible? Anything can be converted to propane. its cheaper than gas It all depends where you live (and how much the propane costs). 1 litre of propane contains roughly 80% the energy of 1 litre of gasoline (providing everything else remains equal). Where I live propane used to be cheaper, it no longer is, so no one in these parts is converting. effectively a 110 octane This could be a good thing, or a bad thing, it depends how you are coming at it. The burn rate of propane is slower than gasoline, giving you a big octane number, in reality it just means that you advance the ignition timing 10+/- degrees (trial and error, every application being a bit different). the benefits are many Depending where you live, and the operating conditions, there can be about as much "downside", as benefit. I am not trying to disuade you. CAREFULLY investigate the costs, and the benefits, look at the downsides, and make an informed decision.

Strangely, mine had a small top crack (pic 1, but smaller), showed open when checked with an ohm meter.

As was mentioned under 15" wheels won't fit an early turbo Legacy (the brakes are oversize, using special (well, different) pads, rotors, and calipers).

No matter what method you choose to repair what you have it would be prudent to give it a heavy coat of paint post repair, and undercoat the s*** out of it. The seatbelt can be hung off of a piece of flat iorn securely fastened to the structure.

There is two kinds of "stuff" going on there: 1) structure 2) filler panels The structure keeps things in one piece and transmits energy in the structure, the filler panels keep the elements out. In the first picture the door frame (un-rusted) is the structure, the rusted panel beside it is filler. I can't see the strut mount structure, but what I can see (the part from the lower frame rail to the box section under the rear side window seems to be intact, picture 4) so in the lack of any more definate pictures I'm going to guess the structure is ok and just the filler is gone. Ok so the question becomes how to fill the holes in the filler panels. Sheet metal is flat and hard to mould into these shapes without heat (though I guess you could pound it with a hammer, and with some constructive cutting and fitting, you could pop rivet the pieces in there). What I do here with non structure repairs of this type is clean them up at least 4" around the hole(s) (or as much as you can to shiney metal) and use fiberglass cloth/resin to fill the holes. I do *think* you should verify that the strut mount is still able to carry the forces placed on it before filling, or wasting any time on filling the panels.

I believe its a capicitor or diode? It's a capacitor, it's function is to limit radio static caused in the ignition coil, depending on it's age it could be bad, or good. Not connecting it up will not hurt anything, (other than maybe a bit of radio static), connecting it up if defective will cause all manner of ignition "gremlins". The safest route is disconnected. If you find excessive amounts of ignition noise results by not connecting it up buy a new one, they are only a couple of bucks.

Well if the thing flies to F*** You can always try this: http://www.utterpower.com/10hp_chevy.htm

Now to search for a fuel pump that is not $200!!! Bosch external should do the trick (Volvo, VW, Saab etc, you get the idea).

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/fuel.htm 36-50psi............. but pressure is only one element, you want to check the quantity pumped. 80 L (21.1 gal)/hr min. (12 v @ 21 psi) How you check this is with a "T" in the fuel line, one end to the line (pump), one to a guage, and the final end to a tap, you open the tap slowly until your pressure drops to 21 psi, then check the delivery out of the tap.(you should be able to fill a 1 gallon gas can in 2.8 minutes @21 psi)

1) oil change intervals: "They" (being engineers) figure on "worst case situation". I do not run garbage oil in my Subaru, but I might, so to be safe they cite worst case. You would be surprised at the number of folks that ***************/outright refuse about running premium fuel in their turbo cars, so the short change interval comes as no surprise. (I change mine every 3 months, @300,000 miles and still counting) 2) timing belt change interval: I am not sure that my wifes car will have even 70,000mi on it when the 105 month interval comes around Ok, let's stop and consider the material that timing belts are made of. Material I may add, that falls prey to oil, and heating and cooling cycles. A car used for long trips/high mileage is easier on the belt material than a car used for short trips/low mileage. In your case your useage comes under "extrene service" and I would stick with the time, rather than the mileage. We have to add that if the timing belt "goes wrong", and fails, you will be into a motor (as in "replacement"), as the valves WILL hit the pistons. I would *think* it wise to stick to the recommended replacement?

Do not want ricer comments What else could you expect?

I'm looking at my front struts, and *think* I can cut the bottom off of an old strut, swell the top of it in a muffler pipe expander, put a spacer inside, and slide a new strut inside the top (that I swelled up), clamping the two together with a motorcycle muffler clamp (the band style). The amount of overlap necessary would require careful removal of the brackets on the working strut (the mount and the brake line retainer).

I was going towards the nice shjiny brand new intercooler as for the front mount option. See if you can find an old 9000, of course if the front is smashed, so too will be the intercooler. Saab engines require a timing chain/guide replacement at about 150,000-200,000 miles, parts about $500US and it is an engine out operation, just enough, in some cases, to send the car to scrap (or makes them really cheap to buy). You will not beat Saab seats.

Top mount seems like the easiest and cheapest No old Saabs in your neighbourhood? ($100 Saab usually nets you a water cooled TD04 and front mount intercooler) I am not going to tell you there is no work involved in a front mount, but any work usually is not as visually critical as mounting a scoop on the hood, and I've seen lots of "badly" hacked hoods. (I am not questioning your body work skills). Could i say run a cold air intake pipe or to much hassle? Your current set-up gets air from inside the fender, a lot of "cold air set-ups" get air from under hood, where is the air cooler?

Though English, a rough guide can be found here: http://www.alloyguide.co.uk/index.htm Because we are looking at a whole different marketplace everything here must be taken with a "grain of salt" (and a tape measure in your pocket), but it is a starting point.

Just wanted to inqiure about the whole knock sensor issue. The "issue" I have with knock sensors are they appear to age over time, requiring replacement, suggested list in Canada is over $200, and I can buy a Bosch knock sensor from Saab for $80. so how is this bosch knock sensor supposed to work if the motor is producing piston slap to some degree all the time ? "Official" word is, that the sound while similiar, it is at a different frequency, so it should not matter. What some folks around here have done is re-locate the knock sensor, after claiming hesitation "issues", and claim re-location fixed it. I have used 91 octane and still get that pinging noise when the motor is lugging about town. I use "premium" (claimed 97 octane) on a 2.2 turbo and have no noises, (piston slap, spark knock @300,000 miles). To me a device such as this one should have never been put on this motor because it could - long term damage it; for no good reason - run lean from piston issues. Anyone agree? The knock sensor, when "triggered" sends a signal to your engine's computer telling the computer to retard the engine timing, within set limits, until the "ping" stops. By retarding the timing your engine runs in a "rich" condition, rather than "lean", so I'm not follownig how "damage" is being done. should I relocate mine ? I'm not sure it will "help" you, I guess it can't hurt, if you do re-locate it make sure it is grounded (the bolt), or it will throw a code, and automatically retard your timing. BTW: I am knock sensor free, not wishing to be held hostage for $200+, I gave the computer 520K of resistance to look at (so it *thinks* there is a knock sensor installed).

Thank you too for wasting everybodies time.

I'd rather deal with wires and a computer over a carb any day It, I suppose, depends what you grew up with........... I could *see* removing the throttle body and adapting a side draft SU/Stromberg from a Jag to the intake (my memory dims, but I seem to remember a 2 1/2 inch throat on those things), being a variable venturi carb you could get away with "close" tuning wise, and seeing a Jag used 2, one would be about right (you sometimes find big single side draft carbs on some old Mercedies cars, again if I remember correctly, it's been 30 years!). About the conventional limit for a motorcycle type side draft carb is 50mm (2 inches). You could try a carb bank/set-up from a Honda Lead Wing, but tuning would be a long time and money consuming process. The reason I *think* side draft is easy adapt and height. But for sure, reliability wise, my vote goes with FI

Not only a carb, or carb adapter, how do you plan on firing the plugs? (there are no distributors on these engines). The aircraft guys adapt distributors and carbs to these engines, I can't say on how it works out, I have been thinking about it, it probably would be easier to snag everything required from the engine donor car (computer, wiring, etc) because once set-up the thing should be trouble free for a lot of miles. Quick link here: http://www.prachapter34.com/converting_engines.htm (link offered for information only)

A shortage of parking spots? And a mini parked behind, we used to do that kind of stuff to minis.

This seems to be a case of posting the same question over and over until "we" get an answer "we" like. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75526