Reveeen

Ok, well, I went about this lifting thing a bit differently, I built strut extensions. So what I have is a conventional strut, with a 7" extension on the bottom of it, I have room to move the strut about an inch inward (at the top), and being a "crazed old man" with a welder, I figure if the lower control arm was about an inch longer, the camber would behave itself.

I know that was the year for preminum fuel I *really* have trouble with this. Subaru recommends premium fuel period (in all cars since 1990), why would you, or anyone else, have trouble with this? Here is what is going to happen: Knock sensor detects knocking, timing auto-retards, gas mileage drops 3-10mpg (depending on your driving habits), savings 0 (none), in fact it will cost you "real" money every visit to the gas station. Help me out please, because I really don't understand?

I'm in the process of lifting my '92 Loyale. As expected the camber is out to lunch. The "big" question: If I make my lower control arms longer at what point do I run out of axle? (I can pick up some at the top of the strut, but not enough in my estimation) Thanks in advance for any/all replies!

Front looks like a Daewoo............................... and we all know what happened to Daewoo.

when you turn 20 it all changes... "instant wisdom"

It would appear that you have done all the "stuff" you would do, WITHOUT taking the heads off, to cure your "problem". Sometimes air can get sucked in the water pump seal, I say sometimes, because it's not likely (and the water pump should have been changed by this time in your car's life?). So, with nothing "easy" to fix, what is left? If it was mine, and not overheating, I hate to say it, but I would drive it until it got worse, then decide.

Sometimes spray foam (the kind that comes in a can to be used around windows and doors) can be your friend. A quick easy fix for, well, in the wheel opening areas, you foam the holes, let it expand and dry, trim/shape with a knife, then undercoat the crap out of (because un-protected foam will absorb/hold water like a sponge). Not really a "long term" fix, but will get you out of trouble (and through an inspection) and slow up water migration into the trunk/rocker panel. No strength, but a quick easy hole plug(s).

These boot kits ok?? One is inner and one is outer. As with anything, you gotta watch the cost, $13ea + shipping, or $26+$10?, $20?. let's call it $10, or $5 each, now the boot kits are $18 ea. I have no idea who you do business with up in Maple, but I'm almost certain you can get your boot kits from a "bricks and mortar" parts store for less than $18+tax. (I honestly pay $12 each here). You have to watch your total, then figure out the best deal on this repair, If you pay $75 + tax for an axle and $36 + tax for two boots, a rebuilt axle (with a warranty) @ say $125-140 becomes "the deal".

Here's hoping someone who lives close by, and will take a young fella under his/her wing, replies................. Ok, did you get a spare tire working for you? Having, and needing, a working spare tire is kinda important. What you are looking at is a torn inner axle boot. The inner joint, by it's nature, and location, can go a while not repaired, but we must remember dust/dirt/water is "the enemy", and left long enough turns a boot replacement into needing an axle. You are not going to fix this with a $15 tool set, but a young school going fella usually has an auto shop class that can be conned into fixing such a thing for the cost of parts (boot kits are $12 locally here). Maybe, as I said above, there is a member close by, who can lend help and guidence.

Or............... You could just buy a "Dayco" timing kit One timing belt One tensioner One tensioner pulley Three idlers (two smooth and one toothed) $300 cdn trade price (just bought one). At the moment, shipping USPS (forget UPS, or you will get reamed) the last two I got in (a crossover pipe 2 weeks ago, and a couple of door locks today) came in duty/GST (group sex tax) free. Last time I crossed into the US, the Marine looking border crossing types held me there for 3 hours, almost made me want to fly the 18 wheeler I was driving into a nuclear power plant.

Chances are, if he goes into ANY auto parts store in Canada, he is going to be sold a "Dynapak" boot kit. These lits include the boot, a retainer clip, grease, and clamps of a type that you hook together and then squeeze the collapseable section. No Redline anything............. The choices are a lot fewer/different up here.

I am going to assume you are buying a "half-shaft", rather than a "CV", which is a single constant velocity joint. is $75 for a front right good cv and a auto tranny a good price? I would like to pay $20, but have paid up to $50, keeping in mind that a "core" is worth $10-20. I would call around, the wrecker @ highway 25 in Oakville probably has what you are looking for, I have no idea of the price. Boots should be soft enough to allow movement, without binding, the older the boot, the harder the plastic seems to get. So, there are 2 boots, an inner and an outer, the outer CV joint is held onto the shaft with a pressure clip (you get a new one with a boot kit), to remove it you hold the shaft in a vise, and using a brass drift on the center bit that fits on the shaft, simply apply a hammer to the brass drift, pushing the joint off of the shaft (the boot has to be removed first). Now the inner joint is a different animal, cut the boot off, pull the joint apart, and the center is held on the shaft with a snap ring (you will need snap ring pliers), you get a new snap ring with a boot kit. Have plenty of rags handy, as this in one dirty job! Boot kits seem to cost me $12 each. You will need a tool to tighten the boot's band clamp, if you hold your mouth the right way you can use side cutters, I have a kind of "sideways" side cutter (an end cutter?) that I use. Ok, so do the math, say you pay $75 for a half-shaft, $25 for 2 boots, you are at $100, and no warranty, check price on a re-built with a warranty, then decide. You can call David @ Eurodrive and ask him how much to rebuild your CV shaft http://www.euro-drive.com/ Maybe not having to buy a shaft at all, and maybe do it while you wait, these guys do good work.

I would think, for a daily driver, you might want heads that are non-interference, I know I would............of course it all comes down to what you put in there for pistons. We *must* remember: the more you take out power wise, the shorter the life. There is an extra timing belt, well, I would call it a guide, some might call it a shield, when you equip one of these engines with a manual transmission (it goes around the crank belt sprocket).

don't abuse it while driving Isn't that what the "T" means in EJ22T? 300,000+ miles here and "well abused" (EJ22T).

is there a point when all the 'little things' just stop popping up? You have 2 "strikes" against you. 1) 20+ year old car, no matter the miles on the clock, as parts assemblies, containing many sub-systems, age, the effect of aging becomes more un-predictable, look at the Space Shuttle as an example. (you can limit your exposure by re-building entire assemblies, rather than doing what I call a "running repair", repairing just the broken part) 2) Turbo charged car(s) fall into a "high performance" category, high performance cars require LOTS of "tinkering", sorry, that is the way it is.

Ahhhhhhhhh you "younger fellas". Likely some "old guy" got a welder for Christmas, and turned two pieces of junk into one, there is no telling what a demented old man (with a new toy) will weld up (so speaks a "old fella" with a Chrysler V-6 motorcycle). There is one of these type creations near me, made out of a "K" car/trailer combo, hand painted (with a brush) to boot!

This car is available in Brisbane and will only be delivered in Brisbane. No sense asking you if you would care for a "little" drive?

I *think* you will find that a fella living in Maple Ontario Canada: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?searchtype=address&country=US&addtohistory=&searchtab=home&formtype=address&popflag=0&latitude=&longitude=&name=&phone=&level=&cat=&address=&city=Maple&state=on&zipcode= Will get in the recommended "break-in" (brake-in?) about 2 minutes after leaving his yard (and before he can get to the 400 series parking lots found in that part of the world).

I remember reading somewhere that I need to break in new rotors? At one time this was true, rotors came "new" perfectly smooth, and we were using asbestos for brake material, you avoided "panic stops" (if you could for 500 miles). Now, rotors ship with a swirl pattern machined in the metal, and we are no longer using asbestos, go ahead and drive it.

As far as I know, on an early car, you only have the one O2 sensor.

Bearing # 6207, you decide if you want a sealed bearing, or not, I buy sealed, and pull the inner seal, letting grease migrate from the hub center. There was a guy one time I read about that installed a grease fitting in his axle carrier so that he could grease his wheel bearings sorta "on demand", said it worked out, would make sense if you are running open bearings. There are two seals, inner (half shaft side), and outer (hub, or wheel side). What "kills" these bearings is water/dirt, keep the water and the dirt out and they will last forever.

I have never seen that over here. Is it because the european light units are different or different weather? Your lights have glass lenses, ours are plastic, the plastic yellows over time. Bosch makes an off-road bulb that is 80W/100W (low/high) that I have run in motorcycles. I would not try them in plastic lights, and we have to remember Japanese made headlights are not as focused (or "directed") as european made headlights, turning up the wattage may very well blind on-coming drivers.

Usually you can kinda tell a wheel bearing, with a disk brake car, because all of a sudden your brake pedal has a lot more room at the top before the brakes work (as the hub/disk assembly wobbles it pushes the brake piston back more than normal, that has to be pushed back out before the brakes apply). Anyhow, you know the drill, jack it up, grab the tire top and bottom, checking for play, ANY movement requires attention. Pay attention, it can be deceptive, because in the early stages the bearing cage blows up, leaving the balls to bunch up in one area, so you might only have play in one direction. I am in process of doing wheel bearings here (regular maintenance, rather than a failure) and it sure can be confusing. I went to buy bearings and I had two choices "name brand", or no-name Chinese, $30ea vs $8ea. Don't forget new seals (most important!).

They use like a urethane glue (like your windshield) just to stop the noise. The situation is worsened when the roof gets dented in in any one of those spots. I would get a tube of urethane glue and re-glue as necessary if it was annoying.

Hi-Rise Subaru: http://www.funonwheels.net/hirisesubaru/pages/home.htm