Reveeen

I don't have them (buried in paperwork), I could call Subaru this AM if you like, I really don't trust aftermarket (for seals). If your parts folks are hooked up with the "Best Buy" group (wholesalers out of Toronto) you can source Beck Arnley through them.

We are all in the same boat. What would you expect when we sent all our manufacturing jobs to Mexico, and China? (no banana, well, maybe a banana up the back side?)

Ok then, partially consumable? If you get a look at the turbo crossover pipe with the shields off you might change your mind, last time I saw a cheesy tin bellows on an exhaust was on a crapola Dodge, both designed to fail, and fail expensively! I'm at 325,000 + mi on mine, less the muffler, and crapola crossover.

It varies.............difference is about .06 at the moment.

There is only 1 bearing!

All I have is a NTN number K8000-90152 @ $60 US (List $106) There are two seals inner (brake side), outer (diff side) Inner seal (CR $5.40) or Subaru $17.xx ($8 trade price) No idea on the outer, should be similar $ wise Amazon.com will sell you a GRW142 for $52.81 US http://www.amazon.com/SKF-GRW142-Hub-Unit/dp/B000ELW8HS There is cheaper on the web if you look. I have no idea what the dealer wants for a bearing Note: these are press-in bearings

I guess this is a good idea. I am not here myself, but might be here in the future, I am not sure of the best route. Adapt an Escort distributor (like the airplane guys)? Carb (again, like the airplane guys)? Adapt existing fuel injection? (with Escort distributor) Bite the bullet and wade through miles of wire? Being an "old poop" (and having played with carbs and distributors for 20+ years) I am not entirely convinced FI is the way to go with a "normal" (non-turbocharged) engine. (Secretly believing FI is "the devil's work")

The pipe leading into it rusted and broke away. I am not questioning your judgment, but in these parts I find the flanges that connect the two pipes, with a "donut" in between, seem to rust away, allowing the joint to come apart giving the appearance of a major disaster. If, after you have given this a second look, and find this to be the case, an auto parts store will be more than happy to sell you 2 part replacement flanges (for roughly $15 each) that will get you out of trouble. I know exhaust systems are considered a "consumable", but they are really expensive for Subaru cars, and if you can get a fix going for under $50 it really is a "bonus".

Any way to tell if the heater core's good or bad by looking at it? Not really. You want a core from a car with a reasonably clean cooling system. If you check the pics you can see that the core is the lowest point (the inlets do a kind of a "hump over and drop" thing), what this means is that any crap in the system tends to stay at the lowest point (once pumped into the core crap tends to stay, this includes application(s) of "stop leak", effectively plugging the core). Personally, I have found used heater cores to be hit, and miss.

I guess nobody gets a turbo because they want extra gas mileage Small correction: PREMIUM gas mileage. Actually I had a run of turbo cars show up for cheap, my Legacy was $400, a turbo 9000 Saab came for $100.

I thought a turbo would increase your mpg as long as you don't drive it like it's a sports car. In theory............. The trouble being that as soon as boost is seen the computer dumps in extra fuel. Stock with a 2.2 this happens around 3100 RPM, keep it under 3100 and you are "golden". Start modifying things, and this changes. With an after market crossover pipe (1/4 the price of OEM, and oversize), a cat less down pipe, and a punched cat, I'm making boost @ 2100. In town, driving like an idiot, this means about 8mpg, but "fun" (or who says a 4 wheel drive Subaru won't torque steer?).

Keep in mind an "imperial gallon" is 1/5 bigger.

What kind of highway mileage can I expect with the 2.2t & auto? You are kinda asking: "how high is up"? Driving @ 100k/hr (60mph) with a light foot I get 32mpg (imperial). Driving like an "animal" @140k/hr+ (100mph+) I get 10-14mpg (imperial) '91 Sport Sedan 2.2t + auto

There are folks that fix power boosters (re-build), I'm warning you, they are few, and far between. Ask around, the only one I know of is in Canada, 1200 miles from where I live, and probably wouldn't do you much good. BTW: putting re-seal kits in aluminum wheel cylinders is questionable at best, make sure you have iron ones to re-build, or by new iron ones.

stuff's expensive in Canada I have a small truck garage (2 tractor trailers side by side) water heat in the floor, R22 building, oil fired, heat cost is average (over 12 months) $2200/month, insurance $1650/month, electric $1200/month, taxes, business+property $1000/month, the list goes on...............

Most insurance policies cover cars automatically that have been "just purchased". Usually 15 days. But, we have to remember this "young fella" has been carless for a while, and I'd be willing to bet he is not the "primary" on the policy. (I was talking about knocking together a quick tow bar)

For the want of a $7 trailer coupler, a bit of iron, a chain, and a binder, tow the thing home. Driving home a clutchless car with no insurance is dumb, and could end up quite costly.

Even spendy dealer shop time (Infinity, Lexus, etc) is around $80 an hour It all depends where you live............. $110/hr is not uncommon here, running to $135/hr. between the insurance, and the EPA, I would not want to be in the garage business at this time. Their quote (even assuming a 4 hour job) puts it right at $125 an hour $550-$120 (parts)=$430 Most dealers have a "shop supplies" charge of 10% $430-$55=$375 $375 divide by 4 $92/hr

Front wheel bearing: Koyo W0133-1653046 Coverage: Different models, '90-'04 $50-80 There are 2 seals, likely around $15 each (inner and outer) This is a press-in part, labor estimate 3 hours (job goes well=2 hours, not so nice=4 hours) So, $500 is in the ball park, maybe a bit more, maybe a bit less. The Hub and the Axle could be damaged (depending on the length of time it has been driven "squeaking"), this is a spot call by the mechanic looking at your parts. Would it be the sort of repair a small local shop could do properly? This one is a tough call. Most domestic stuff has replaceable hub assemblies, the reasoning behind this is it makes the job of repair, and assembly on the factory floor, idiot proof. Someone repairing imports, Japanese, and European, can deal with this, but will likely charge as much as the dealer (if not more).

I *guess* the $100 question is "did the second shop miss the play in the inner tie rods?" Missing this is, well, not easy, but if your car is low mileage, would they look? Something else to consider is parts availability. I live in the weeds, inner tie rods for Subaru cars take a week to get, if the play is "not bad" and the desire to get the car out is great, then the alignment guy makes the call. Watch your new tires. Many chain auto repair places pay crap wages. The mechanics can "up" their pay by selling parts (that they get a percentage of). Not all of these places/mechanics are honest. I once worked at a tune-up/electrical shop located 2 blocks from a Firestone store, and had "service calls" there about 3 times a week, to get running what they couldn't. We used to joke about Firestone store tune-ups, and how many a car could stand, before it wouldn't run any more.

lets see if i'm getting this right, you have no rear brakes? No, I now have LOTS of rear brakes, I am questioning the *thinking* behind aluminum wheel cylinders, and their use in northern climates, in "daily driver" type cars.

In process of rebuilding my Loyale, and doing the rear (drum) brakes, and yes I know disks are the best option, but not here, because there isn't any to be had. I'm looking at aluminum wheel cylinders, that appear to be original, what were they thinking?

Probably the first thing to try is a key cut to code. Many dealers put the key code in the owners manual, if that doesn't work you can get the code from your local Subaru dealer with your VIN, cutting a key from code usually costs $10-20.

It's too dark here to look, but I can look at my Loyale in the AM, if you like?

Just call me an idiot...................... When you rebuild a carb, you completely disassemble it before soaking it in the cleaning tanks, this includes all jets and screws, mixture, or otherwise. The idle mixture screw is just that, it adjusts the mixture at an idle. Pre environmentalist/government rip-off BS you would alternate between this screw and the idle speed screw (after making sure the timing is set first) to get your idle speed correct. You would adjust the idle mixture for the highest/smoothest idle first, then go back to the idle speed screw, adjusting for correct speed, then back to the mixture screw to re-check, then do a final on the idle speed. Did it this way for 20+ years.