Reveeen

Mine came with an old work sock! Actually, the cap was there all along, it got dropped down on the, well, I don't have a clue what they are called, the tin shields found on each side beside the rad, it disappeared in the collected crud, only to be rescued later (by myself), and re-installed.

I had a great experience with my 91 Turbo but it is old and slowly falling apart... Any advice? Throw the two together making one if $$$$ are tight.

I *guess*, if determined enough, you could drop the exhaust, and pull the heads out the bottom, replacement the same way as it came out, gooping (Permatex #2 or Aviation goop) the manifold before head installation. Not sure it would save a lot of time, and certainly "what better time to replace hardened/cracked vacuum lines, than a valve job?"

I *believe* they will all fit, it is only the later ones have more clearance for the front brakes, early, or late, they will fit on a "early".

is it possible to remove and replace a head with gasket of course without completely removing the intake manifold. It is the same question as: can I do one head on a V-8 without removing the intake? I can reply to the second question, but not the first, because I have not worked flat rate on Subaru cars. Reply to second question: Yes it is possible, and I have done it, under "used car" conditions. But the un-asked question (so far): Would you do it to your own car? No.

So I wanted to ask everyone here how often they have seen the tensioners go bad There is some *confusion* as to what is meant by a "tensioner". In my parts book a "tensioner" (tensioner assembly) is the adjustable belt pulley that the "Adj CP-Belt TENS" rests on. Rather than a "tensioner" (13069 AA035), I *guess* you would call it an "adjuster" (13068 AA026). I had the "tensioner" through-bolt break out of the blue here a while back? Last timing belt job on the car was 2 years 30,000K ago. It was suggested by a dealer mechanic that I over tightened the bolt? I am not understanding, though I do understand an overtightened bolt will fail in short order, this was far from "short order". I was also told by the dealer mechanic that there is a seemingly regular fail rate on through bolts. New bolt, new belt, and it has been good now for 4 months. As far as I know @ 300,000+ miles I am on the original "adjuster".

http://www.colinmcrae.com/

How much should this cost to fix Inner tie rod end with boot $45-65 (I think the last one I bought was $45) 1 hour labor 1 wheel alignment is this something any mechanic can do Might as well get the alignment shop to do it. is the car safe to drive? It is a front end component, so if it is not too badly worn it would be ok to drive, funny........I can't quite see it from here.

Follow the lower rad hose to the water pump, in the first housing is where the thermostat lives.

But carefully, it is cast, and you might not like the next noise you hear.

Would putting 14/15/16inch rims on give me much more ground clearance or am I better off Adjusting the Suspension then putting the rims on, or i think i might be able to source a lift kit from the UK What you have to do is determine the tires you want to run. Availibility, and the confines within your fenders will determine this. Then you get the rims to fit the desired tire/vehicle. If no such rims exist then you change your tire choice. Price plays a part in this too. The overall height of the tire/rim combination will determine your ground clearence. A lift kit will open up the wheel opening to allow you to run a larger tire (higher), but keep in mind that about the limit of, say a 6" lift, is about a 28" tire without body trimming/bashing. The way I went about this here is I determined the tire I wanted to run, I bought suitable wheels, I lifted the body 6", I then trimmed the fenders. But it is good to know what is availaible to you (I sure wouldn't know) then make your decisions based on cost and availaibility.

have to do some cutting in the wheel-arch as well. It entirely depends on the outside diameter of the tire you choose.

Bad belt (broken cords).

In East Yorkshire, England? I somehow don't *think* you will find 6 lug Chev rims there, maybe Nissan, maybe Toyota, but not 6 lug Chev.

Hey! not my web page............. strictly given as an example, you will find the rear of your Loyale is different to the model shown. I just wanted to know what direction the offset is in The offset is "in" (in-out is the camber, front-rear is the castor). What I would do (assuming you are using a strut top for the bottom plate) is weld a round spacer to the bottom plate, then offset the top plate the required amount (7mm/inch of lift) tacking the top plate, checking (fitting?), then finish welding.

The angle is not as important as the offset. What I see is when the extensions are made they are made parallel, but simply offset. So one 3 holed plate for the top, a spacer of the lift length, then another 3 holed plate rotated 180 degrees and offset the 49mm. The rubber strut tops are pretty forgiving. When I did mine I extended the struts (actually making the struts longer) then I picked up a bit by making the tops adjustable (slotting the strut tower top holes), and lengthening the lower control arms. The other way is easier.

I Use 2x6 square tubing to comprise the engine and tranny lower kit. 2X5 is easier, using 2X6 you will have to closely watch your fuel lines, and E brake cables. Do you think I could build 7" strut tower extensions? Picking up an inch is ok, I wouldn't try for more, but you should be ok at an inch. If you go more than the lift you will need an alignment after. What are acceptable anges should you choose to throw out that information? The "numbers" that have been thrown around are 7mm offset per inch of lift. Lifting 7 inches will be 7X7, or 49mm offset towards the inside. @6" your will be lengthening your steering shaft 5 1/4"

What's their deal? How can they get things for so cheap? I see no mention about going out of business. They appear to be an "ends", "job lot", and buyer of bankrupt stock, paying pennies on the buck for stuff. To handle some product lines (become a "dealer") (and makes of automobiles/motorcycles/equipment) you are required to invest a certain amount of money in "stock", this "stock" is what they call a "beginning inventory". Depending on the honesty of the manufacturer, you can end up with quite a bit of "dead stock" (I could tell you horror stories about Yamaha). What these guys appear to do is buy this "dead stock" (for very little) and are turning it around at a profit. In this case, a Subaru heater core, that doesn't fit any Subaru car newer than 1994, would be considered "dead stock" here, where I live. So......you would buy from them? At a risk of $10, or a potential savings of $130, I would give them a shot.

Why buy a $10 heater core when a $140 one will do? Actually I know nothing about those guys, a couple of folks here were talking about parts there this AM, and I looked, and I remembered there was a heater core available there for $10. If shipping from there to me wasn't so expensive, I'd buy it myself, just to have it.

How about $10? http://www.ufixitautoparts.com/Items/72011%20ga220%20vis?sck=36276866

There is a bunch of old Subaru Air conditioning parts (wasn't someone looking for a receiver-drier?). Shipping is a "killer" though, $70 shipping on a $10 muffler, must be using UPS.

there may still be a valid design patent Looking at the web site: http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalogs/customgokart.html I would almost suspect they were a promo item.

I made mine like this: http://www.subarubrat.com/liftday.htm http://www.subarubrat.com/liftday2.htm I saw that the rear shocks need to be replaced You could build extenders that re-locate the rear strut mount downwards the amount of lift. the steering shaft must be lengthened Yes. Again, depending on the amount of lift, you might have to get longer rear brake hoses. I don't know if they give you the bits for the gearshift, you will end up fooling with rad/heater hoses. The engine pitch rod will need lengthened, and you may find your mechanical rad fan no longer has meaning, so replacement with an electrical one is recommended. The exhaust will require some tweaking/fooling. I'm not trying to scare you off, but on a difficulty level, this is harder than a brake job, and does need the ability to be able to work things out. I'm still working on mine, but I started with a really rough car, and am fixing everything as I go along.

These guys appear to be an "old" type of electrical automotive shop the likes I have not seen for 30 years.

Aftermaeket seals are the same, it is only with the dealer seals that there is an extra dust shield on the axle side seal, the bearings are the same, the seal function is the same.