Reveeen

Wasn't the B210 very similar to the 510 The B210 was a smaller, cheaper, car with a smaller motor, typically a pushrod 1200cc (it was the "entry level car"). The same motor found in many Datsun/Nissan lift trucks. If I remember correctly the rear end ratio was 4:10.

Because each and every car is a bit different you have to play with it. I get my maximum mileage on the highway @58mph (2400rpm), anything more, and my MAP sensor "sees" boost, and dumps in extra fuel. The difference (in my case) between 58mph and 65mph is 6mpg. I *guess I'm trying to say: in high gear drive with your tachometer, not your speedometer, to get mileage.

1) take a test light to your headlight connector and find out what you have. 2) there should be a steady + and the - should travel between the remaining two connectors depending on the beam selection. 3) I believe that your headlight relay and fuse are to be found in the box beside your battery, 4) repair the system so that it works properly stock before heading into the unknown.

The limiting factor is going to be the brake size. Check the listed diameter of the rotors on the 06-07 to say an early turbo Legacy. Here is the listing I have for same diameter that accepts 15" wheels: 1991-94 Legacy Turbo 4WD 6/1995-12/95 Legacy & Legacy Wagon (15" Wheels w/Rear Discs) 1996-98 Legacy & Legacy Wagon incl. Outback (15" & 16" Wheels w/Rear Discs) 1999-00 Legacy GT 1999-6/00 Legacy GT Limited 2001 Legacy L & GT models 2002-04 Legacy L (w/Rear Discs & 15"or 16" Whls) 1999-01 Legacy Wagon w/Rear Discs & 15"or 16" Whls 2002-04 Legacy L Wagon 7/1999-6/00 Legacy Outback Wagon All these rotors are 10.9 inches I am told a 2005-07 wagon has a 10.9 inch diameter rotor. Unless Subaru has decided to install some goofy oversize caliper I would say it's going to go.

Plus too............... If the thing is anything like mine there seem to be about 100 (just kidding) small water hoses all over the engine. For me to tell you it isn't leaking/seeping water somewhere I *think* you could only take me at my word for 20 minutes or so. Though I am on a program of small water hose replacement (every time I work in an area I replace all the hoses in that area) it is far from complete. My temp gauge does not go over 1/2 unless there is trouble. Putting the front of my car on those el-cheapo ramps seems to allow me to fill the cooling system completely, though mine is a bit different animal, being turbo charged, and I have no bleeder. If it was me, I would put in a new thermostat and fill it up. Disconnecting my fans and trying not to get snagged in the fan belt(s) I would feel my rad for cold spots. Being a cross flow rad there shouldn't be any.

Quickly (because I'm not that familiar) Stock Subaru lighting is like most Japanese type lighting, the lights are switched (hi-lo) through a "moving ground", rather than the conventional way (moving hot, or +). Mounting "grounded" aftermarket headlights will fry the headlight circuit, and if they do work at all, they won't work properly. 1 relay, you should be able to do the light thing with 1 relay, OEM, or aftermarket. Alternator output in stock alternators is not very high.

I am now working with the City of Los Angeles handling the Police Department workers' comp claims. Sounds like a winner to me. Good luck with it!

Can I use an after market clutch that says OEM? You can use whatever you like..........it's your car. Funny thing about things that say OEM, I *think* anybody can print OEM on a box, and not upset anybody. Where are you?

Always the "economy minded person" daeron, Reg here is $4.77/gallon, Premium (Legacy Turbo) is $5.22/gallon (note: Imperial gallons). The way I *see* it you have two choices: 1) drive it 2) leave it parked in the yard If I didn't have so many projects going, not to mention the unexpected (my water heater laid an egg yesterday), I was/am considering a diesel re-power of a scooter. Picture it, me on a scooter, it would look like a bear "doing" a foot ball. Scary stuff!

The Axxis page here: http://www.axxisbrakes.com/techdata.htm gives a pretty good comparison between their lines One other thing to consider is heat. The "better" your brakes work the hotter they are going to get. To my way of *thinking* the softer the lining you can get away with (without adverse effects) the cheaper overall this is going to be in the long run. Having to change rotors frequently is not only boring, it can get expensive.

I *think* you will find: The EJ starter won't fit, and the input shafts are different (different clutch disk, center and diameter), so instead of making a bunch of custom pieces you use the flywheel that goes with the transmission/starter, adapting it to fit the engine, as is customary with an swap of this type. As always a balance between ease, usefulness, and cost.

Simple is good. Your choice depends on your rotors. If your rotors are not what they should be (eg. pitted, stepped, or otherwise marked up, maybe even el-cheapo Chinese) then you want a softer pad, as not to eat your soft rotors (Chinese) or to conform to irregularities rapidly to provide effective braking (full organic). Metallics require a bit better rotor (good steel and a near perfect pad surface) to be effective. Even a hard, or quality, steel rotor will be eaten by a high metal content pad, but you are trading rotor life by more effective braking. I would consider a ceramic pad to not be much use on a daily driver, as they do not work cold, and will eat your rotors. Here is where it gets complicated. Different manufacturers do different things to their brake material compounds, as it is the nature of the thing to give different braking characteristics between the product lines and the manufacturers themselves. So, really there is not one answer for you (other than noted above, if your rotors are crappy). What I do: New rotors get el-cheapo organics to break them in, or "season" them, once through that set (6 months) I go for a mid grade Axxis pad: http://www.axxisbrakes.com/ Of course crappy rotors get full organic pads.

I just didn't see a ready way to recover from a snapped bolt there, so I did it as a preventative measure. I could see, in a "pinch" so to speak, drilling the bolt completely out, and using a correct size bolt and lock nut. All? All Subaru bolts/nuts are 1.25 thread pitch, which I am told is "standard" for a Japanese car (Honda etc.), only in America (American made metric) do you get vehicles with the 1.5 thread pitch. PITA if you ask me, I have to travel about 6 miles to get them, while American type metric is available to me about 2 blocks away.

10mm x 1.25 pitch x 40 All Subaru bolts are 1.25 pitch. 8.8 should be fine.

I've heard many times of auto cars giving 28mpg. I can't speak to that, never having owned one, though my Legacy turbo auto gives 32mpg highway. With a front wheel drive DL 5 speed I used to see (before retirement) 45mpg, up hill, down hill, empty, loaded. With my 4WD 5 speed Loyale (in front wheel drive mode) on it's maiden voyage (home) of 1000+ miles I saw 43mpg. All the changes you mention, excepting swapping out of the automatic, mean little if you do not drive for mileage. Your driving style is what will give you the maximum mileage.

how did we manage before the internet "We" just went ahead and did it. There is such a thing as "over-thinking" a small repair, I know when I "over-think" something, I end up making an a55 of myself.

There was a fella that used to campaign a front and rear engine mini on circle tracks when I was a kid. (40+ years ago).

Anything else I should replace while I am at it? There are a couple of small water hoses at the water pump that might need replacement, you won't be able to tell until you get in there, but now will be the time, I'm sure they will be difficult later. The same goes for camshaft seals. @140k yours is a "spring chicken".

It's not difficult to replace the housing, the key is "clean" and do not use silicone sealer. From Legacy Central: The rear drive shaft and exhaust rear of the Catalytic Converter have to be removed and the rear transmission housing needs to be removed. As you remove the rear housing there is a wire to unplug from the duty C solenoid (it's an inline wire connector). If you are assembling a bare housing the clutch pack can be tricky, if replacing with used try to get one from a low mileage/unburnt transmission oil donor, new is good, but expensive. On re-assembly silicone is to be avoided, instead use something like this: http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm (offered as an example only, there are many available from different manufacturers) carefully cleaning all mating surfaces first (razor blade, and making sure they are oil free). And, yes a used '99 unit will fit/do, provided it has low miles and comes from a transmission that isn't burnt up.

it has started exhibiting symptoms of torque bind. Ok, we know the signs, is there a transmission failure shown (by the flashing light on start-up)? Generally the accepted first thing to try is a transmission flush, that is 3, yes 3, transmission oil changes. The torque converter has no drain plug, so it takes 3 changes over a time period (a week) to effectively change the transmission oil. This is the first thing to try before getting into it. I have an auto transmission here with 300,000 miles on it that I will be getting into next year, but haven't had to yet, regular service is the key, along with identical tire size and pressure.

Ideas or just get new ones from a dealer? The sliders come in two varieties: 1) stainless steel 2) chrome plated iron You can free up the stainless ones, but the chrome plated ones rust, and once rusted, will rust again in short order. So, the iron ones you replace with new, the stainless ones you clean and free up, in either case you use high temp brake grease (I cheat and use never-seize).

If you were local................ But I don't own a mig, I have a stick, and a tig, but no mig. It does not matter if it is a cheap welder, or not, mig welders need to be kept in a dry, dust (reasonably) free environment, I can supply neither, so I don't own one, lacking the patience to be fixing it all the time.

classact2575: In "modern" torque converters there are two functions: 1) a fluid coupling (picture a fan plugged in and running, pushing air, in front of another fan, not plugged in, but turning because of the air pushed into it from the running fan). 2) a small clutch pack that provides the "lock-up" function (a very small clutch pack, usually 1 disk, the size of a clutch you would find in around a 350 Honda motorcycle, that has 5 disks, by the way). You are confusing the two separate functions. The lock-up function is electrically controlled by the transmission computer, when a set of conditions are met, that triggers a solenoid that allows fluid pressure to apply the lock-up clutch in the torque converter. If this lock-up function is triggered while sitting and idling in D your car will stall (providing that the lock-up clutch is intact and working). If your car engages lock-up at all we have to assume the clutch in the torque converter is working, it is the control circuit that is faulty (be it electrical, or improper fluid pressure applying the clutch). If your car never locks-up then you have to look at the above, with the possible bonus of a faulty torque converter. It is quite normal for a 200-400 rpm difference between D and N, stopped, running, foot on the brake (the fluid coupling).

WOW. Nobody see's the potential in this??? The "potential" is limited due to 1)the usual one owner-one vehicle 2)the government sometimes at whim gives a tax holiday, and then removes it 3)vehicles have become too complex for "joe average" to convert 4)cost of conversion is high, usually "out" for a used car, adding thousands on a new one 5)lack of re-fueling options while on the road (away from home) We seem to thrash this about once a month around here, and no it hasn't changed one bit. BTW: I am a licensed automotive propane fitter.

BTW: If the Subaru bolts, nuts, and springs are too pricey (I have no idea) you can sub in the stuff from a front wheel drive Dodge (manifold to exhaust pipe), those kits are available anywhere (and cost about 4 bucks). I would go OEM Subaru on the donut.