Reveeen

With modern technology, equipment, and properly trained staff, there is no reason a crashed car can't be made better than new. It may rust "strangely" in the repaired frame areas if corners were cut in the rustproofing, but that won't be evident for years, and "reputable" shops WON'T cut those corners.

My Haynes says: 2.0L 1.0-1.1 mm 2.2L .8 mm Go figure?

You know: I question the reasoning behind criticizing someone's ride. This whole thing is about building/doing what you want and what meets your specific needs. I certainly would not build something to meet with someone else's approval. BTW: mine is up 7" on 31" tires, and no, I'm not offering, or waiting, for your approval!

Noises "in the back" are real tough to figure out. I am not discounting you making a center bearing call, but the drive shaft has such limited movement, that need for center bearing replacement is rare. The entire rear end assembly is rubber mounted, inproper jacking/hoisting in the area behind the rear doors can cause noise, as the sheet metal mounts around the rubbers gets crushed. Rear strut mounts (uppers) going bad can be a source of weird noises. "U" joints do go out of these cars. *The dreaded transmission (automatic) torque bind can cause drive line noise.*

1969 International 1 ton, 345 V-8, 5 speed front, 4 speed aux in backwards (making it an overdrive, rather than an underdrive) Bought at auction originally for $200, transmissions originally from a 10 ton gas International truck, ran on propane until the price went through the roof, back on gasoline now. While parked on the street neighbors kid let their car roll out their driveway into the side did no damage. 3 1/2 Tons EMPTY, it laughs at conventional garage hoists, licensed for 24,000GVW. A "terror" on water pumps, it eats one yearly, they are starting to be hard to get.

They are a "standard" bearing, meaning: once you have the number off of the bearing ANY place that sells bearings can hook you up. I have seen a "low" of $3 for Chinese bearings, and a "high" of $30 for Swedish bearings, I went with a middle of $6. I buy the double sealed, pop one seal off, make sure it's greased, then mount with the seals pointing outwards, leaving the bearing able to get extra grease from the center (where the spacer is) that I pack before putting the axle back in. The seals pointing outwards give it another chance at keeping the water/crud out, or at least that's what I figure.

Easiest, quickest way to repack front bearings? Take out the axles, remove the bearings, clean them, inspect them (any sign of rust throw them out) re-pack and re-install with new seals. Unlike the backs, the front bearings are cheap, last 4 I bought were like $6 each, almost disposable. I might add: The only time I have axle bearing failure is when there is about 4 feet of snow in "God's garage". At $6 each they are a regular maintenance item.

You know.............. Whenever I inquire about buying something: 1) I always ask for a price, someone who won't give you a price doesn't want to sell, or is "gearing" you around, no price: walk away. 2) If the price is too high, it simply means you do not see the value, the person selling values the item more than you, if you like you can leave an offer on a card, but don't be insulting, insult the guy and you will NEVER get a chance to buy. 3) The guy that has something to sell you is not an idiot, he's got, you don't, if you can't afford something it's your fault, not his. 4) Excuses: always put the blame for not buying something on you, not the seller, it's a small world, and what comes around usually goes around, coming back to bite you where the sun don't shine.

I have no idea what you should pay........I rebuild my own. Give these guys a try: http://www.euro-drive.com/ Ask for David Let us know

Thank you Mexico.

Did you ever stop to consider that maybe it's folks knocking at the door, and offering to do a guy "favors", that makes people "nut jobs"? Out in my yard I have about 6 "projects" stacked up. It seems that the "idiots" arrive here in waves offering to do me all kinds of favors, and take my "cherished" junk of my hands for not very much money. Or, how about the guy that "wants" a Dodge mini van gas tank, because his is leaking, and mine doesn't only not leak, it has a $120 fuel pump in it, along with $20 worth of gas, but won't pay $20 for it. Or the old Frenchman that arrived at my door last winter, a time when there was 4' of snow down, and *thought* I should dig out one of my toys to GIVE him the hood emblem off of it. Or a neighborhood kid, that had to have an old Mustang car (that he drove out of here) a year ago, and still owes me $50 of a $200 purchase. Yes...............I am one of those "nut jobs", proud of it, and seriously considering shooting the next A-Hole that bothers me.

Sorry about the dollar euro exchange ratio. It's no matter, just doesn't make much sense converting a $2500 car, does it? but here in Holland LPG is usually just flamed at the refinery. It used to be that way here too, but the demand has outpaced the supply, and now the majority of propane is manufactured as such from crude oil. I completely agree on the fact that we should change to an other source of energy. Well, we spent 100 years getting to where we are now, I don't *think* any change will happen over night. Of course biodiesel and E85 are steps in between to Hydrogen or pure electric I am not convinced Hydrogen or electric are an answer. Maybe there, here the electric industry is the dirtiest industry in N America, be it acid rain from coal burning plants, or nuclear waste to be disposed of, the electricity generating industry creates more pollution than the top two other industries. I *think* it more important to utilize the resources as best as you can, rather then hope for a major change that will take decades, not years.

you will only be doing it because its better for the environment. Reality check: Propane is an oil by-product from the manufacture of gasoline. You would be doing far more for the enviroment to purchase a vehicle that is the most fuel efficient, no matter the fuel, from the beginning, not the end. On average an installation + installing + MOT costs 2000 to 2500 euros $2845-$3560 US

rverdoold: I have no doubt that such a system is far superior to the "norm" here in N America. What does it cost? Or should I say "the topic of discussion is converting a 1995 car" (maybe worth $2500?) How far would you have to drive a 13 year old car to recover the cost of conversion out of the savings? Considering gasoline today is $1.05 a liter where I live (and auto propane not far behind at $1.03 a liter) I question the ability to realize any savings, but I might add that any European system here is simply not serviceable, and would render a car equipped with such a system un-serviceable in general, as conventional mechanics won't touch it. Even conversion to the "norm" found in N America limits a converted vehicle to very few mechanics, as alternate fuel licenses are few, and far between. In many parts of N America mechanics are not licensed, once you throw flammable gas under pressure into the mix (that does require a license everywhere) it becomes very "limiting".

During WWII in Europe fuel for vehicles was at a premium. Germany had no sources for oil, but still had to move material around, they used wood, adapting their vehicles (trucks) to use a by-product from wood burning. There is a "how-to" here: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Homesteading-and-Self-Reliance/1981-05-01/Mothers-Woodburning-Truck.aspx Probably not suitable to run your Subaru car on, but something to *think* about. Life is all about trade-offs, you might hire the neighbors kid to cut your lawn, simply because you don't have time to do it yourself, because you are busy making more money doing something else. I don't heat my house with wood, because the time I would spend preparing the wood, I spend making more money than heating oil costs.

how hard is it to fix this thing. I guess the "better" question is: How bad is it? If not too bad, or if it is still ok for a MOT, the preferred situation (and the cheapest) is to stop the rust now, before it gets too bad and won't MOT inspect. Clean up the area as best as you can, paint seal, and apply your preferred method of rust-proofing twice a year. Yes, you can buy/try to buy an intact inner wheel well, with enough metal around it to patch it into the pressed metal frame box (below), and the behind the rear door roof pillar/window surround structure. Then after carefully cutting the old out, you can mig weld the new in, and repair the quarter panel to inner wheel well seam. This is a "no fun" job, expensive to pay someone to do it, time consuming, and dirty if done by yourself. Even a "competent" repair in this area is not going to be as strong as new (because there are 3-4 layers of pressed metal gussets in some areas that you can't replicate). The reason these cars rust in this area is because they weren't built overly strong in the first place. When loaded/empty, and traveling over road bumps, the structure flexes (a sedan has the rear package tray to stiffen the structure, the wagon nothing). Each, and every, time the structure flexes it cracks the paint, allowing rust to start, at some point the metal will crystallize and fracture.

Yes. You have been warned away, this is not likely a "just kidding" situation, proceed at your own risk.

I really hate to be a nay sayer but: Alternate fuels, no matter the type, only work as long as your government chooses to play along. In Canada, in the late 80's, early 90's, the government was all for alternate automotive fuels. They granted individuals (and companies) money for conversion (up to $1500 a unit) and gave a tax holiday on fuel purchases. At this time I became a licensed automotive propane/natural gas "fitter". I was also running a fleet of 5 ton International trucks. The situation here (in Canada) is far different today. It is simply not economically reasonable to switch to alternate fuels today (no conversion help, no tax breaks). 1) A gallon of Propane produces 20% less BTUs than a gallon of gasoline (your propane cost has to be less than 80% the same quantity cost of gasoline for it to be a "savings") 2) Propane does not work well at air temperatures of less than -15C 3) Because propane is a slower burning fuel timing adjustments must be made, adjustments that are not gasoline "friendly", dual fuel conversions end up being the worst of 2 worlds. Yes, you will save on maintenance, but most garages do not want to touch a propane/natural gas conversion. There are also a whole bunch of other laws that come into play (storage of pressure vessels on ferry boats for one). It is just not good here and I can't recommend it.

If I tighten up the bolts any more No bolts, studs and nuts, now you know why. has that flange been known to warp over time? Well no, a flange sitting on a shelf does not warp all by itself, only when tightened does it tend to warp, or "distort", as it gets pulled by the fastners. Easy enough to "tune" with a hammer/and/or/file. If old enough the rust will have eaten it away to the point where it is a shadow of it's former self, easily warped/distorted. I question removing the pipe So do I, especially when welding/heating on it, to fix it, without clamping it so it won't move.

But it follows what I said............... There is no money in small cars.

do they still run a Distributer? Yes. are they computer controlled? The FI is (fuel injection).

ALL the WRX exhaust stuff will fit your car......... Crossover, up pipe, down pipe, cat, rear, muffler. The BPM stuff is priced right, works good.......... http://www.bpmsports.com/products/td.htm

The only listing here for front and rear struts is found in Gabriel, I am not saying others won't work, but there is no listing for all four in KYB, or Monroe, it also helps too that I get my best price "break" in Gabriel. Shocks, struts, does it matter? I figure they are struts: 1) changeable spring 2) they can, and do, charge more for "struts" than "shocks"

The bolts on these engines are "stretch bolts" (whenever a tightening spec is given in degrees from a specified starting point the bolt "stretch" is the tightening factor) The original question: do you reuse the old head bolts My answer: 3 times, after re-using 3 times I would replace the bolts. Noting: Refer to the Subaru manual for tightening specs, they are different from Haynes, and turbo motors are a different spec from non-turbo motors.

A couple of Sambar vans in Van: http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/426878037.html http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/426255768.html Another in Burnaby: http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/423896844.html Pick-ups in Whiterock: http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/415855555.html I simply do not see that they are worth the asking price, but to each his/her own, parts here (east coast) are but a dream (as in hopeless).