Reveeen

The fuel rails are pressed together bits if stainless steel tin foil, so *thinking* about repairing is "out", think replacing. New is good..........until you ask the price (+$300).

Always, always, always carry water, no matter what, at least 2 gallons. I always carry water in those windshield washer fluid jugs. Can you air cool a watercooled engine? No, though one time my wife blew a heater hose at -43C and drove an Escort home 10 miles empty.........air cooling worked good that night.

It started off with blowing coolant lines left and right. After blowing my heater core. Now my tank is split, and its obvious it was under pressure cause of the bowing involved. It certainly is not "obvious" and especially not on a 15+ year old car, that may, or probably not, have had a single hose replaced, ever. (and this from a fella with "almost" EXACTLY the same motor, ok, it's older, with 325,000 miles on it, with, surprise, surprise, the original head gaskets) And............being a closed top block (solid deck) you are going to pull the heads and if you do find a "bad" head gasket, you will find a warped head along with it.

cant do a coolant pressure test if my coolant tank is split Then how, besides guessing, can you determine if you have a head gasket "problem" if the cooling system won't/doesn't hold pressure? The cooling system can't work anywhere remotely near "normal" if it can't pressurize. Say you have a 195 degree thermostat in there, the operating temperature is roughly 10 degrees hotter, so you are attempting to operate at 205 degrees. Without the system able to pressurize (like a pressure cooker) the coolant is going to boil at 210 degrees, you are, in effect, running a cooling system without a rad cap. Replace the tank then see what is what. Part # 21132 AA010

The head gasket part number is: 11044 AA280 Call and get a $ from Subaru (I could call here tomorrow, but it would not do you much good). A compression test probably won't show you anything. (I'm still *thinking* a cooling system pressure test cold/hot would be the "ticket")

There is a complete engine set here: http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=767 $218.41 I am under the understanding a 2.2 head gasket is a 2.2 head gasket. (only the torque values are different) There are a few "O" rings/gaskets that are different between the turbo motor and the normally aspirated, and more than the $11 difference in the two kits.

The EJ22T does not have a radiator cap. It has a coolant tank that is detached that the cap is on, and you fill from there. That's the radiator cap. If it was me, I would try and borrow a cooling system pressure tester somewhere, pressurize the system, and look all over for leaks. The turbo engines are especially more of a plumbers nightmare than the naturally aspirated ones. Water feeds for the oil cooler, turbo, and that remote radiator tank, are all possibilities. This car is 15 years old, there is little shame if there is a small hose (rubber, or metal) leaking. Pressurize the system cold and see if it holds, then hot, and re-check. When I got mine, whoever worked on it before me stripped 2 of the water pump mounting bolts, the thing would leak cold (about a gallon), but once warmed up (and the block and water pump expanded with the heat) it would not leak at all. The same type of situation is possible at the Rt rear cam cover, there being an "o" ring in there for water sealing. The coolant tanks on these cars are known to get brittle, crack, and leak. There is a bunch of water piping down front for the oil cooler that looks to me like "trouble" waiting to happen.

They are discussing the number of pistons in a brake caliper.

Just a FYI: We got the new style up here in 1988.

All "bets" about fuel mileage are off if you are using "MacEwens, or Drummond fuel", from up that way. Both are selling an ethanol "blend", actually substandard fuel with ethanol added, to boost the octane rating. It does not behave like conventional fuel and gives lousy mileage. Rooster2: I use "universal" Bosch wires on my older Subaru without trouble, they are solid wire wires.

So he is complaining about 18mpg on a high mileage car in the middle of winter. By my reckoning he is. I don't even check mileage in the winter, all I know is that when the needle gets down to "E"xpensive you either put gas in, or walk. Subaru gas gauges aren't accurate at the best of times, I *know* mine is even worse in the winter, the only reliable check is with gas receipts/distance checks. I did quote Imperial gallons (that are bigger than US gallons), but before we went metric here, we were on Imperial gallons (he is probably in the 15mpg ballpark, "US gallons").

400X .6= 240 miles 60L /4.5= 13.33 Imp gallons Or a little better than 18 mpg. In town, or highway? I would not be seeing 20mpg here @ temperatures of -15C "in town" (in the summer with a "light foot" I see 24-28mpg in town, 32-36mpg highway).

just wondering if they make one for older cars If yours is anything like mine, you don't want a LED key, just a LED screwdriver.

I have bought a few "postal vehicles" in my time (but not a Subaru) and they were all "high mile", "clapped out" projects when I got them. I accepted that, as I wanted the type of vehicle it was, and paid accordingly.

where are you getting your numbers?? I'm a little bit north of you. I'm not comparing beyond "entry level" (I somehow can't see buying a Ford Focus POS) My point is: As far as I'm concerned, keep the sheet metal changes, and drop the price.

@ 117,000 I would expect the "magic" head gasket ordeal in your future. I would expect the car to be exceptionally clean $5200 is bonus money for a 10 year old car. Reference: http://www.motortrend.com/cars/1998/subaru/legacy/gt_sedan/822/pricing/ (wholesale the claim is $3900)

Ok.............. Here we have a car that is "almost" the same technology as what Subaru developed and sold in 1990. I am not saying there are no improvements, but the basic technology is the same. Now, all of a sudden, we are getting a 3 year body style cycle. Subaru wishes to sell cars and it appears that they are "fishing" in appearance to do so. Why not hold the body re-design and drop the price? (VW did this with their "City" line of cars) Locally, an "entry level" Ford is $18,000 (Focus), a re-designed "entry level" Subaru is $22,000 (Imprezza), now I'm not comparing the two besides "entry level", but holding the re-design should allow Subaru to sell cheaper, no?

That appears to be the same scoop as what is on my '91 Sport Sedan. I suppose you could section a hood and patch the scoop and the surrounding metal in, but beware my hood is aluminum, the two (aluminum + steel) don't mix too well, and will be a constant source of irritation.

How do you want it, Subaru or Haynes? Subaru: 1) oil washers and bolts 2) tighten to 22 ft lbs in order 3) increase to 51 ft lbs in order 4) back off 180 degrees 5) back off an additional 180 degrees (this sets the head gasket) 6) tighten #1 and #2 to 25 ft lbs (Turbo:27.1 ft lbs) 7) tighten the rest in order to 11 ft lbs (turbo:14 ft lbs) 8) tighten all bolts 80-90 degrees in order (DO NOT TIGHTEN MORE THAN 90 DEGREES) 10) tighten again in order an additional 80-90 degrees (DO NOT EXCEED 180 DEGREES IN TOTAL for #9 and #10) Bolt order: 3 1 6 5 2 4

I got one here (had to order) roughly $20 as a blank.

You could sub a Saab knock sensor (OEM Bosch) or sub a 520K resistor. If you go the resistor route MAKE SURE YOU USE PREMIUM FUEL, as you have no knock protection.

I would unplug it first (connector outside by the fuel pump) and: 1) check the state of the connections 2) verify 12V with a test light first, then a multimeter.

I'm sure you can. I worked with a guy I saw wrap a rope around the crank pulley on a 460 Ford engine and pull start it lying underneath on his back. Guy was a weight lifter with arms larger than his thighs.

Are you sure it is the valve cover gaskets only? The cam boxes have been known to leak, more so than just the valve cover gaskets, go on, get under there and look.

What is involved to go to vented disks? (out of curiosity, I already have vented disks on my sport sedan, just bought new rotors too, special order, $18 each)