Reveeen

There are no "guarantees" in life, how could you hope to expect one on a 12 year old car? Personally, I choose to pay a price I can live with, or I simply do not own the car. The 2.5L engine has a long history of head gasket "problems" (worth $1000-$2500 to get fixed), problems I might add, that seem to show up around 100,000K-140,000K, pay accordingly. A lot of mechanical parts are transferable between the years you mention, again pay accordingly (if I drive into a scrap yard here with a Subaru they don't want it and might offer me $200, MIGHT).

Is there any way, by examining the engine, I can determine whether it is an EJ 2.0T? Well, I'm not quite sure what you mean, there are two versions of the EJ 2.0T, SOHC and DOHC. On the block, at the front looking, behind the oil sensor, there is a raised platform area in the casting, that should have the displacement stamped on it: eg: 1.8EJ 2.0EJ, 2.2EJ, 2.5EJ. I am not sure if there is a turbo designation stamped here too (and it's -11 outside this AM, so I'm not going out to look, at least not right now). if you haven't a 2.0T in North America I didn't say that, I said that that motor was not factory installed in a Legacy body for N. America. Here that motor would be found in the smaller series of cars, ie. Imprezza. XT Turbo Legacy Officially no such car exists. (early turbo Legacy cars here were called "sport sedans")

Jan 93 Turbo, 1994cc EJ 2.0T In N.America we didn't get that motor in a Legacy, we got the 2.2. It's done ca. 185,000 with quite a few bits replaced from scappers Mine is at 307,000 miles. (EJ 2.2T)

Tires can have a lot to do with the twitchyness of the steering, along with inflation. We won't mention unnoticed bad inner tie rod ends, outer bad ends, or steering shaft U joints.

'91 Legacy Sport Sedan, 2.2T, auto, 308,000 miles, aftermarket crossover, up, down, no cats. Full boost:19psi In the city, between 8mpg, and 24mpg, depending on how it is driven. On the highway, @2500 rpm, 36mpg. In temperatures less than 10C knock 2mpg off. In temperatures less than -15C all bets are off (it's a LOT worse).

Balance what you do know with what you don't know. 140k=88,000 miles Head gasket job=$2500 Asking price=$750 If the above is acceptable to you it is time to go and look. Checking for: Condition (the overall condition will tell you how the car was treated) Service records (reasonably important) How the motor runs (smelling the oil, and looking in the coolant tank) Then you can decide.

As far as I know, they are not. Front wheel drive cars use a rear drum set up for a conventional tapered roller wheel bearing, inner, and outer, that ride on a axle spindle (like a trailer, or front of a rear wheel drive car). A rear 4 wheel drive drum incorporates the hub that is internally splined to slip on the outer end of the half shaft, and be driven.

Would you not accomplish the very same thing with a piece of plate and a simple flange bearing? Well, ok, maybe accomplish not emptying your wallet. Oh: if there is enough room in the strut tower with the stock diameter spring to move the strut In my strut tower, with the stock strut/spring, there is about a finger width around back (3/4"), so if more is desired I would assume that at least a spring of smaller diameter would be required. There is more room fore and aft, but to offset a major negative camber condition you will have to shrink the springs.

I had my wife turn the wheel while I looked and found the spring in the strut sticking on the top of the strut housing. The strut AND spring assembly are supposed to turn as a unit, not independently of each other. Either: 1) whoever assembled the strut did it wrong or 2) the upper strut mount has expired.

My Legacy came to me with a leaking water pump, and because it is a turbo model it was an order and wait. I disassembled the thing only to find, that the "person" in there before me stripped out 4 of the mounting holes, when they installed a new pump. After fixing the "bad" holes in the block, taking no chances, I installed the new pump and raised flange OEM gasket (the gaskets are a crush fit 1 time use only). When working on Simca cars in Europe they had (Simca) a magic blue goop, that I have yet to find a N. American substitute for, designed specifically for alloy engine assemblies. I am not adverse, and did use Permatex #3, on my water pump, just in case. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Aviation_Form-A-Gasket_No_3_Sealant_a.htm While in there, I did replace all those small water lines connected to the water pump, again, taking no chances.

I know nothing about toyotas...do they have rear ends where the ratio is 3.9? You gotta be a bit more specific. I know 1973 Toyota Corollas with a 1.6L engine had 3.90 gears in the back, the ones with the 1.2L engine had 4.10 gears. When you go to the dealer to do your research, you will find, that there are so many different Toyota rear axles, with different ratios that your head will spin.

What causes them to go bad though? Not tight enough Special washer (behind the nut) backwards (it's marked) (I have never had one "go bad" so I'm only guessing) I have no way of getting new ones I have a used one here you could have, but it's under 4' of ice and snow, and about a $20 bill to ship. Surely someone has one closer. I'm in the same boat dealer wise, though I do get "trade price", it's still a week's wait for anything, or a $50 bill for air freight.

I looked at tightening it however, I have already done that once I *think* the spec is in the vicinity of 150 ft/lbs, which is damm tight, or as tight as I can get one without breaking a 36" bar. Once worn they will continue to loosen.

1) Castrol GTX (20W-50) 2) not worth $2

I have only one thing to add: I am at 307,000 miles (not K). Stuff for the spring: Ball joints Front brakes Struts Tires Turbo up pipe Transmission service Oil and filter

you'll be using a driveshaft to connect the front engine/clutch to the rear transaxle Porsche 944 Foolishly enough, GM did the same thing in 1961ish Buicks and Pontiacs (Skylark, Tempest), *thinking* Buick aluminum V-8 (Rover) in the front, auto transaxle in the rear. They were odd little cars.

There was a US firm (Austin Texas?) doing electric conversions of early Sambars (Subaru 600's) in the late 70's "Jet Electra Van". I'm going to be honest, there is a web page, complete with downloadable manuals, but I can't find it at the moment (but did snag the manuals at the time). Ok, got it: http://member.newsguy.com/~apeweek/ElectraVan.html

Though I am not "up" on such things (gyrations of insurance companies to duck responsibility), it sounds to me that in this case insurance fraud is highly suspected. I can't rationally see why there would be such difficulty in writing off a 10 year old car. An oil analysis can tell the general condition of the engine without running it, if the engine is "toast", and the car only vandalized (not stolen), then it points to an inside job.

It makes me wonder if you could hang the existing SPFI on the EJ22 and use the Ford distributor. Shouldn't be that big a deal.

OUR AXLES ARE REMANUFACTURED USING ALL NEW PARTS I believe that everyone remanufacturing anything, be it axles, or alternators, use the best available parts. The "trouble" comes in where those parts are, maybe not so good, or not as good as they should be. We are not strictly dealing with a domestic market, we are living in a global village, and what passes for "quality" in our eyes is not necessarily the case elsewhere. This is not only evident in the auto industry, when I recently had a HP printer quit, I took apart the power supply, that was full of "cold solder joints". I quickly fixed those connections, in that "made in China" power supply, and that printer has not missed a beat since the repair. The "modern" prevailing attitude seems to be, that EVERYTHING is a commodity, buy it, use it up, and throw it away.

I seem to get my best gas mileage here @ 2500rpm, or 57mph, put the cruise on, and shift your brain into neutral.

I have found, over the years, that usually fixing what you have to be the easiest and cheapest. Find out EXACTLY what is wrong with what you own, then, armed with that knowledge, you can make a plan with the best course of action. Very regularly these engines will go more than 300,000 miles. Changing an engine, because of a bad (or poorly adjusted) valve, is akin to amputating your leg because of a broken toe.

it was kind of a *************** to work on the transverse engine setup I did mention the warranty time was 2.2 hours, out, rebuilt, back in, and road tested. Disconnect the stuff from the top (shifter, wires, bellhousing bolts) Jack up car, pull drivers side axle, release pass side axle, drop 1/2 the front sub frame, undo remaining bellhousing bolts, drag out transmission. Put in transmission holding fixture (or on work bench). Take 5th gear assembly apart (under 1st outer cover) Split transmission case for the rest of transmission. Inspect what you have, ordering new stuff as necessary. Reassemble with Anaerobic gasket stuff Stuff in the same way you took it out.

I *think* you already have a cold air system, drawing cold air from inside the right front fender. If you are asking about fabricating some kind of dodgy crapola that is a custom appearing warm air system (using the engine compartment as a source for warm intake air), I'm sure you can find suitable components on-line somewhere (don't they come in blue?). The best place to snag cool air is at the base of the windshield, plumbing something into the existing interior air intake, I'm *thinking* 10/10 guys that professionally run stock cars can't be too far wrong.

The engine was running on only yhe 1-3 side. If I take off the 1-3 side and just hook up the 2-4 side, and give it some gas, the engine will run. I can even let it down to idle with only yhe 2-4 side hooked up. So, Therefore it isn't pistons, valves, rods, etc. The compression test also proves this. While I don't know a whole lot about this specific engine, if it was a V-8, you describe EXACTLY the old time test for a large vacuum leak. I would *think* the same thing applies here.