Reveeen

At some point, a decision has to be made to go with what you can, rather than what is "nice", or "original". Any auto parts store will sell you a universal muffler hanger. The ones I like are a rubber strap type thing about 8" long, holes in the rubber strap, and a steel "J" riveted on the end. The J end gets clamped to the pipe with a muffler clamp, and you bolt the strap to the car where the easiest hole lines up. Sometimes you can find an existing hole, sometimes you make a hole (for a nut/bolt/washers), sometimes you ram a lag bolt in with an impact gun. I like to support things fore, and aft of the muffler, the muffler being the heaviest part of the tail pipe assembly. And of course, the more rubber strap (unsupported) you use to hang the assembly, the more movement is allowed.

I drive over 40,000 50,000 K a year and the fuel bill is climbing! Likewise here................. I *think* you would be wiser to invest your time, money, and effort, into a Geo Metro (though they are absolute garbage) at 50+mpg you can live with the crap for the summer, and drive your "real car" in the winter. Last one I bought was mint (other than a burnt exhaust valve, a "regular" maintenance item) for $100.

Too many variables: On a hoist, with air tools, total time 4 1/2 hours, includes drive car in, do work, road test, park car. At home, on stands, using floor jack, electric impact, beer, 2X8 hour days.

the amount of weight in the rotating system does affect engine performance, period. Before you can come to the conclusion of the possible good/bad effects of messing with the rotating weight you have to consider the ENTIRE vehicle, rather than shooting in the dark and hoping that you are making a "good" decision, assuming: 1) the vehicle is not stripped out, or otherwise lightened. 2) the vehicle has an automatic transmission 3) there are no other engine mods affecting the power curve making it different from "stock" There is little point (other than to dissipate some wealth) to changing a perfectly good engine pulley. In fact, there are situations that it would be beneficial to increase the rotating weight, rather than decrease it.

go do this test. You don't have to convince me, my "test" is at 325,000 miles, still going strong, without the so-called "aid" of a lightweight pulley. there's no real-world significance behind making minor changes to rotating components. None whatsoever, in fact, it may make matters worse, instead of "better". With a Curb Weight- sedans: 2885-3160. Wagons: 2905-3250 maybe leaving the spare tire at home might "improve things" more than ANY bogus pulley.

i intend on putting a light weight pulley on the car to reduce strain... Strain of what?

I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. Here you use two of those el-cheapo type clamps, one on either side of the spring, compress the spring, undo the nut, take the top off, then put the new top on, tighten the nut, then undo the clamps. No reason to do it any other way unless you are changing the spring. If you are changing the spring, you insert the clamps 1 spring coil down, on either side of the spring. You tighten each side a bit at a time until you have the spring compressed enough to stick on the top of the strut, and bolt the cap on. The springs themselves index into the seat on the strut side to keep them from turning. *go slow and easy, if the compressed spring and el-cheapo clamps fly apart you could do yourself a grave injury*

Either/both sensors are little more than a coil wrapped around a center that sense the proximity of a metal bit on the back of the crank/cam pulley. So, you would use an ohmmeter. As to the value, I just looked and couldn't find one, but I would *think* in the neighborhood of 500 ohms. (I am sure someone will be by that knows) Let's just say, if "open" or "shorted", you can consider the sensor "dead". Remember too, as these cars age, there is a whole lot of wiring (and several connectors) between either of these sensors and the computer. A closed wire seldom "goes bad", but connectors do.

Sadly, when recently confronted by a similar situation, I "sucked it up" and bought a rebuilt alternator. No used parts locally, no parts to fix (both situations requiring a week wait). Sure, I could hang something else in there, but I don't like doing that kind of thing on my primary driver. Bosch shows a part # (AL4328X) and availability.

It most likely oil "coking" from getting hot and coming in contact with the metal surfaces. Quality oil does not "coke" (at least it doesn't here).

Every Rockford joint I ever bought for a Subaru fit EXACTLY. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/New%20Parts%20Page/Staked%20In%20Page.pdf 430-10 Also available @ NAPA (a Rockford joint in a NAPA box)

I had a tough time getting them centered. The yokes are as soft as butter, any kind of "thrashing" on them, and they bend. I cut the centers (of the "U" joint) out with a disk grinder (cutter disk), carefully tap the cups inward, and de-burr the holes with a die grinder, this is after marking the pre-disassembly relationship of the parts, so I can put it together EXACTLY how it came apart. I push the new joint caps in with a "C" clamp carefully so as not to bend the soft yokes.

Is it a common problem for the weld nuts in the frame to break loose on Subarus? Weld nuts breaking: 1) it is always prudent to run a tap through first (one that matches the bolts) 2) Subaru (among other Japanese car makers) use fine thread metric fasteners, many hitch "kits" have course thread metric fasteners. 3) Age (specifically, crap seems to gather in the holes) which might not be the case here, but 5 years on, and counting on weld nuts is near imposable in places where there is winter. 4) sometimes quality control is not quite what it should be on non-essential operations (fitting of stuff that is not essential) Weld nuts and me: I have learned over the years to treat weld nuts with kid gloves, so to speak, it seems given the opportunity to mess up, they do, especially the ones that are in "blind" situations. know of some way to overcome this....easily. Easily, no. I suspect you can drill the trunk floor, above the frame rail to access the back side, making the holes "rubber plug size". Do your worst, rustproof when done, then stick a rubber plug in it.

when up on a lift and doing 55 There is never a situation where it is a "good" idea to run an independent driven suspension in an "unloaded" condition. You are trying to operate it with your axles at too extreme an angle and just may end up wearing one. The rear diff in these cars is entirely rubber mounted, I would check my axles (because running them in an "un-loaded" condition may have fubared one, or both) and my wheel bearings, because noise created by either has no where else to go but up the drive shaft. Un-equal size rear tires can cause the posi (if equipped) to make some pretty strange noises too.

i know you arent supposed to put it in 4wd on pavement but i did just for fun lol transfer case type "thing" lol Maybe if you gave a kind "please search to find what your after" and maybe include a quick link to the search page. Or you could possibly say "No". Or even just not answer. Too much lol (Lunch On Lap) for me to get wound into.

Looks like rice to me? (probably work real good in 2' of snow) I *guess* a pass on the low front air intake might be prudent?

Haynes manuals BLOW. (I would say dead bears, but the last one was moving) You would do better looking out the nearest window, and *thinking* about your vacation, than looking in a Haynes manual for anything more complicated than checking the tires.

"The knuckle" he is referring to is the cast bit between the ball joint, and the strut, that the axle bearings reside in, and the tie rod attaches to.

Scott: Do you have a "porta-spot"? http://www.amh.ca/anglais/ You would scribe two lines, either side of the "chunk" you want gone, cut the piece out, then weld the chunks together.

Or, use the parts from the "wrong" caliper to fix the "right" one.

one US gallon = 128 US fluid ounces 96 ounce "package"=$160 http://www.thegassecret.net/new_order.html $1.67/ounce, or $213.33/gallon Who will you get to admit to this foolishness? To market a product in Canada a MSDS has to be available, maybe you should request one?

Let's discuss this one Let's first discuss: To do X amount of work requires Y amount of energy. All things being equal (the car, the load, the engine type) you have to apply a fixed amount of energy to get a fixed amount of work. Grade 10 Physics, no "magic" in a can, no BS stories. Have a nice day.

I have a Bosch universal O2 sensor The correct Bosch # is 13255, inside the box is a made in Japan part # F00E260032 (in a plastic bag). Running rich: As far as I'm concerned these cars do run a little rich, but not excessively, as was mentioned: fuel regulator, but first take a look at the MAF, and it's wiring. If enough crap got past the stock fuel filter the regulator will not be working right. The stock fuel filter does seem to provide some, well, I won't call it pressure regulation, but I will call it pressure stabilization. (there is also a small vacuum line that comes off the manifold, standing at the front looking in, left side front, that has to be connected, or all kind of weirdness goes on)

The trade name is "Uni-Sync", the money should be $20, it is suitable for 2 carbs only, 4 would be a handful. Or, use a piece of heater hose inserted into your ear, listening carefully to the draw through each carb, make the noise you hear the same from each. Whatever method you choose to use, there is a learning curve involved, don't expect miracles the first time.

In an emergency you can steal 12V from your rear lights, butchering something up under the rear seat, of course you will have to drive with your lights on, but it will get you home.