Reveeen

And, to further complicate matters, it can leak between the flange and the pinion shaft, where there is no seal. A little silicone under the nut seems to do the trick here.

antisieze on the threads I've always used simple engine oil.

Here I *thought* 327 heads were not *exclusive*, meaning: You make your choice of the desired small block Chev head and bolt it up. Making that choice: 1) heads drilled for accessory drives? 2) combustion chamber size? 3) valve size? 4) material? 5) spark plug hole size? 6) rocker arm studs and push rod guide plates? Probably #4 should be #1, because you aren't going to get aluminum heads with 1.94 valves, or press-in rocker studs, or big plugs. Pretty well any small block head will bolt up (265-400cid), with the kind of shipping money you are likely looking at it is best to be specific.

Cooler lines?

1980 Chrysler 4 Cylinder 1.7L Ok, Dodge Omni/Plymouth Horizon (the ugly 4 door kind) 1.7L (VW), a "full-on" emmissions carb. My memory is foggy, but the 2 wires are for a switched fuel vent, and a fuel shut off solenoid. An electric choke that requires a Chrysler "choke timer", or it will burn up, not to mention the non-standard choke wire connector. Jetting should be a little "fat" for your application (an EGR valve application), but should work. Probably an older carb would be a better choice, but for $20+$15, you can afford to fool with it a bit.

Usually "air dam" fenders have the mounting holes pre-drilled.

Why go to all the trouble to do everything first rate and then falter on the heart of the car? 1) There are very few emissions approved engines available for wholesale purchase to a small manufacturer of vehicles. 2) Once installed in a vehicle, there needs to be some kind of support structure worldwide, what better choice than a Volvo engine? We saw the same kind of thing with cars from Jensen: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jensen_Motors specifically: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jensen_Interceptor 4 wheel drive version: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jensen_FF The ""SP FF" version" being the most "fun". If you can find one of these Bryan it might make an impressive addition to your collection. The only drawback is electrics by Lucas.

Just about all of them are made in Korea. You pays your money and you takes your choices. Here, you can choose Chinese for around $3 each, or Swiss/German for around $30 each.

Usually, usually, but not always, the tank splits due to excessive pressure in the cooling system. As to the why is anyone's guess, best case thermostat, worst case cracked head(s), smell the oil, install new rad, pressure test with a tester, look for coolant disappearing. If it split one rad, very likely it will split another if you try running it, without a watchful eye.

I barely touch the accelerator It is RPM related, mine comes on the boost @2500rpm, if I can keep the engine under 2500 (in town, or highway) I get mileage, above 2500 and it gets worse the higher it revs. 2500rpm in high gear is 62mph for me. Restricting my top speed to 60mph in flat country nets me 36mpg. +10 on the boost gauge. For mileage you want the highest vacuum you can achieve avoiding boost.

+10 Me too. Driving absolutely foolishly I get 8mpg, you won't hear me complain.

If you could operate a car, or a vehicle, in a clean, dry, environment, then I would say that greasing (lubricating) the moving parts would serve no purpose (beyond the lubricant the parts were installed with), but we all know this is not so. *Think* just for a moment the purpose never-seize performs on fasteners, lubrication, and water displacement. I have yet to see a U joint fail from over greasing, I've seen plenty fail from water, and dirt, contamination.

Is there a way i could knock out 2 studswith the hub still on the car then put them back in after ive checked it. Sure, but CAREFULLY. Looking at the wheels you linked to the offset is 0, making the hub sit exactly in the center of the wheel tire combo, so taking a tape measure (divide the overall width by half), and measure out from the face of the hub this distance, and sighting down your fender you can get pretty close to the amount the tire is going to hang out.

EA82,EJ18, EJ22, EJ25, the 6 cylinder lumps, they are all replaceable, and quite easily, just as long as you do0n't get carried away with the BFH.

I *think* we can all attest to the fact that Subaru builds a pretty tough engine. The thing that has been curiously lacking in this thread is the length of time the engine was operated in an overheating condition before the decision was/is reached to do the head(s)/gaskets. I *think* this is the key as to if a repair/rebuild is the sensible choice in ANY situation. The vehicle in question, (in the beginning) could have been operated overheating for many months before the decision to fix it was reached, we simply don't know. This is not a mileage issue, personally I would venture on a head(s)/gasket job expecting good results at anything under 200,000 k (120,000 miles), past this point it could become dodgey, and all bets are off if "cooked" (good and proper), or run out of oil, then you takes your chances.

a 6 cylinder (explains the slight underpower issue) Peugeot, Renault and Volvo co-designed engine . . . But using the Volvo version, you would source Volvo parts, and use Volvo manuals. A "strange" car for sure, probably the biggest downfall was most were sold/serviced by a "big 3" car dealer, by folks not having a clue about european cars, and "bashing" at them like they would a Ford, or Chev. A side note: a "Renault" version of the same engine can be found in the old (or, original) Eagle Premier, of which I saw 200 buried out behind the AMC Bramalea plant. (I was hanging assembly line conveyors) The first 200 cars off the assembly line (the doors didn't fit). Resulting in Renault selling AMC to Chrysler, not wishing to throw any more money down that deep, dark, hole.

You can grind out the stake points, press out the old U-joint, press a new one in, and then re-stake it into the yolk, but that type of work is beyond most home mechanics. Plus centering it in the Yolk is near impossible, because there are no premarked indents or snap ring grooves like a *normal* U-joint. It is not quite like that. You cut out the old staked in joint (cut the center out with a angle grinder/torch) CAREFULLY push the remaining bits inward (the yokes are as soft as baby crap, so carefully is the secret) clean out the holes (a file, or a die grinder) the new joint comes with clips (inside the yoke) to center things. These folks here will sell you a joint: http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm (also available @ NAPA in a NAPA box, and slightly more expensive) It is roughly DOUBLE the time than a conventional joint, and certainly nothing to be afraid of.

i don't need 300+ HP or anything, i guess i'm just tryin to find something that will still get good gas millage, *1.8 or 2.2 L probably. yet will have a little more get up than say... my brother's 93 legacy wagon. i want something that will pack a little punch if i actually want it to. This simply is not going to happen. You do not talk power, turbo chargers, and gas mileage. I get 8MPG when I drive like an "idiot" (my gallons are 1/5 bigger than yours), and sure, I can lean it out a bit, but gasoline @ $1.36/liter is still cheaper than pistons/valves. Mileage is ok when driven "normally", but how much fun is that? A turbo charged engine is "purpose built", which usually includes (but is not limited to) special bottom end bearings, low compression pistons, different cam shaft(s), oil cooler, increased oil capacity. Putting a turbo on a "normal" engine requires you limit the boost to around 5-6psi, I'm not going to say "hardly worth the bother", but I will imply it. Save your cash, keep your eyes peeled, "the deal" comes to those who wait, I paid $425 for my turbo Legacy.

I don't agree at all. Well, ok................. Here we are claiming to be paying about $1000 for a 22 year old car that isn't "beat to pieces", we don't know what is in there for a transmission, but I would lean towards an auto if it isn't beat to pieces. We all know what an auto transmission in an old Subaru is good for? In the next breath we are speaking rebuilt engine, specifically CCR, or a quick $1295 for a "stocker", no mods. As you say:First thing is try and find some pistons from a ea71 or ea82 spfi block that are in good shape and that will bump your compression a bit from that alone. Also send your cam to deltacam to get it reground to the type of style driving you are intending the car for that will be a good help. Also get your heads decked down .020" when rebuilding the motor. Another grand? So, here we stand at the threshold of $3500, are we not at "several thousand", without tires, brakes, steering (it is 22 years old), not to mention a possible transmission? (I'm currently looking at a '97 Imprezza for $700 to upgrade my fleet)

I really want it to have some GETUP without spending several thousand dollars Buy something else.

Hardware kit? A disk brake "hardware kit" is simply shims that go behind the pads. A "caliper kit" is the seals and slider seals, sometimes a piston, sometimes not, sometimes sliders, sometimes not. Beck-Arnley shims: 084-1047 Beck-Arnley caliper kit (for the piston only) 071-4493 Beck-Arnley bare caliper: 076-0165 (L) 076-0166 ®

The rear strut mounts (for some reason) seem to un-bond (the rubber to the metal insert that the strut mounts through), once this gets "working", throw in some road dust/salt/whatever, and instant clunk. SOME are available aftermarket (for about a third of the Subaru store), but you can't trust the listings, likely, as not, they won't fit (which is a royal PITA when you have the whole thing in pieces). Mine is a high mileage car, one mount was "out" when I bought it, and the other is "on the way" (I can hear it occasionally).

The only time I have seen sealer used on head gaskets, is when you are using a copper head gasket, and only when you do not wish your right boot waterproofed by oil, otherwise it is as clean, and dry, as you can get it.

ive been having so much trouble finding parts used its driving me crazy They brought so few of these cars into Canada they don't even "red book" them, my 91 SS had less than 200 siblings, there are virtually no used parts to be had here.

You should be able to slot the top mounting holes about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. If you reach around the spring at the top, mine is about a finger width, check yours, more room, longer slots.