Reveeen

aftermarket under dash unit? what is that? Quite a while ago (I *think* JCWhitney still sells them) you could buy an aftermarket air conditioner kit. All the catalogue stores sold them, ie: Sears, and if I remember correctly they listed at the time for a couple of hundred bucks. They were a universal kit, condenser, compressor, piping, and under dash unit (evaporator/fan unit). They required 3 holes in the firewall (in/out and drain), and a power wire, something like you see at the bottom of this page: http://www.classicautoair.com/vintage_air.asp or here: http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/evaporators-44.php The hot rod guys use these things, and the original units were built tough enough to outlast a few different vehicles. Or simply go "whole hog" http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-conditioning/universal-underdash-ac-system-451.php

Where I would: 1) use the compressor that fits the motor 2) scour junkyards for an under dash aftermarket unit (complete, last one I bought was $40 used) 3) mate the compressor with the aftermarket stuff 4) fill carefully, with gauges attached, watching my pressures, so as not to over/under fill. 5) enjoy

The Whole Strut`s Tower Area on the Car got Moved a Half Inch or So to the Inside from its Top I am just wondering how you came to this conclusion? Is the strut tower pulling away from the inner fender? Are you seeing distortion along the fender top? Is the gap between the fender and the hood changed? Behind the front fender, there is a formed steel "beam" that attaches to the cowl to provide support in this area, combined with the fender, and the inner fender, this is a fairly rigid structure that is supposed to resist movement (never say never), but I feel far less likely to bend (unless rust has got at it), than the easily replaceable components. Before you can come to this conclusion (unless you see signs of physical tearing/twisting/distortion) you should disassemble the area checking the components, then if the components are OK, using a chassis manual for reference, run a simple tape measure between the defined points (you do mention 1/2 an inch), checking for mis-alignment. I am not saying your chassis could not be bent, but feel a bent, ball joint, lower control arm, or strut, more likely (unless you see signs of physical distress in the metal of the structure). Even with a bent structure, disassembly is almost a prerequisite to any straightening. Applying force between the strut towers will affect both sides equally. If you force one against the other both will move out, "fixing" one side, and disrupting the other. Lacking the ideal of a frame straightening machine, maybe applying force between the far side cowl (low down where it is strongest) and the strut tower area (remove the fender first) with something like a porta-power might move things, but again, this application of brute force should be avoided unless you are SURE that your car is bent! I am going to run outside and measure the strut towers on my EA82 and post back. OK, standing at the front of your car, hood up, the closest strut mount bolts (towards the front of the car) are 40 1/4" apart, the next inner, lower bolts are 35 1/2 apart, measurements from strut tower to strut tower across the engine compartment. I did not measure the outside bolts.

Probably the best "fix", would be to determine what got bent, and replace it. Hooking the strut tops together, then pulling them together (or, pushing them apart), will likely mess with the side that isn't buggered. We did see adjustable strut mounts here a while back (basically, a replacement strut mount made out of a steel plate, with a flange mount bearing for the strut, that was attached with slotted holes, that allowed adjustment). You could slot the upper strut mounting holes (including the big center hole) and pick up some adjustment that way. My vote is to fix what you bent.

With enough time and money anything is possible............... I'm not entirely sure a TH400 is a "wise" choice. In some dyno testing here, a few years back, a "normal" TH400 requires 45HP to turn it. Probably a better choice might be a Powerglide (15HP).

foam? To satisfy a curiosity I have, would you consider dumping what you have in there for coolant, and try plain old water (after giving it a good flushing, with, again, plain old water)? (the only time I have seen foam like that is when windshield washer anti-freeze was used for coolant) Just a *thought*. (the boiling point of WWasher fluid is really low, but it can be used to store a non-running vehicle, in colder climates, when you don't want to spend the money on "real" anti-freeze)

it will pop the rubber boot out of the top of the tranny You are mistaken, the gear shift lever does not enter the top of the transmission.

Probably the best (and the one solution I believe in) thing to do is re-boot/rebuild the existing axles (half shafts). Recently I got caught, 2 axles with torn boots (been like that for a while), and choosing to ignore what I know (fix your own), due to time issues, I sourced 2 axles (re-built) from where my local Subaru dealer gets them (Fenco). One so far has been ok, one is junk (noisy), I have a 2 year warranty, that I suspect will see a lot of claims (there is a replacement waiting for me to pick up and install). I know better than this, but was living in hope, that this would be over by now. Get your mechanic to drive the car, and diagnose what the noise is, this is a "known problem", and certainly not unheard of.

Ive heard a lot about the first generation of the 2.5l motor being crap As far as I know there is limited physical difference between "early", and "late" 2.5 motors, there was a head gasket re-design, along with the addition of magic gumbo in the cooling system, so head gasket "issues" are lessoned, but not eliminated. (I see "new ones" apart all the time at my local dealer) Crap is a relative word. We have seen 80hp pushrod engines going 500,000 miles, we have seen 90-95hp OHC motors doing about the same. With a small displacement increase (2.2, 2.5), we see a 45-70hp increase, and a reliability decrease. Add in the fact that the newer ones are run hotter to decrease emissions, and "things" do not seem too far off expectations to me. Have you driven a Ford lately? Would you ever think/expect 500,000 miles out of one?

The "key" phrases: bubbles in my overflow tank i have been over heating ever so often Be it a "lowly" Subaru, or a Caterpillar diesel, both of those things, singly, or in combination, speak to: "getting the head(s) off for a look-see".

If a fella was into prowling junkyards, and happened on one of these: http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/article/0,28804,1658545_1658533_1658531,00.html The whole "issue", turbos, plumbing, carb, and air box, should make a "healthy" addition. Some specs here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maserati_Biturbo As the article states: The Biturbo was the product of a desperate, under-funded company circling the drain of bankruptcy, and it shows. Everything that could leak, burn, snap or rupture did so with the regularity of the Anvil Chorus. Not to mention rust, these cars arrived here rusting, and lasted in these parts about 4 years. These were moderately priced Italian "sports goofys", that no one in their right mind bought, and if you did buy, soon exceeded the purchase price in repair costs. I have seen many in pieces waiting for parts that would never arrive, or cost so much that they were abandoned at the garage, so there should be one, or two, here, and there, in junkyards. They use a weber carb in a "blow through" situation (a sealed air box) that should be easily adaptable to a 2.2/2.5, with a small turbo on each bank of cylinders.

Will an auto tranny from an 89' DL 2WD be a direct replacement for my 92' Loyale 4WD AT? Yes, but being a 2WD tranny there is nothing to hook your drive shaft to, so no 4WD. You might want to snag the front axles and TCM, as they might be different (inboard spline).

It's not the "going" you have to worry about in the winter, its the "stopping", or lack of, that is the worry here.

more than the long block on a 235k EJ22. I am at 325,000 miles (not k), on a '91 EJ22T, and auto. @ 141,000 miles you own a "spring chicken".

Propane is a wonderful choice for an alternate fuel, but watch the price of it, *remembering* that you get liter for liter, an energy loss of 20% (you get roughly 20% less energy (mileage) running a liter of propane rather than gasoline). If gasoline costs $4.00/gallon, you can't be paying more than $3.20/gallon for propane. Currently where I live there is no advantage to running propane (and gasoline is $6.12/gallon here).

I have absolutely terrible luck, lately Earlier this week I bought new struts, springs, brakes, tires, one strut mount, and rims, for my Legacy, but it just decided it needed a $200 alternator yesterday. I had maybe, 2000 miles on a timing belt, idlers/adjuster job, and the adjuster bolt (the new one I got with the OEM adjuster) decided to break(?). (all Subaru parts, bought from a Subaru dealer) Given the choice here, "non-interference" wins every time, especially with a belt. Not really bad luck, bad luck is when this stuff breaks, and you have to lie in 2' of snow to fix it. You have to remember too, this old car is getting "up there" in miles, it probably should be retired.

I don't want things to break I sure hope your luck is better than mine. Just this AM (while not wanting things to break, as I wish to buy a new scooter) my Legacy ate an alternator. Not before time (@325,000 miles), but, you know, "stuff happens". Personally, I'd go "non-interference", if given the choice.

It would be SPFI.

your strongest clutch is going to be from a EJ22. Or, a "custom" from a reputable re-builder. I live 1200 miles from these guys: http://www.euro-drive.com/ But wouldn't hesitate to let them build me a "special" clutch. http://www.euro-drive.com/performance.htm (In the '80s I used to sell these guys clutch cores, they were pretty picky about what they bought, what they didn't buy went to Fenco) I have sourced several Porsche and Maserati clutches from these guys without a problem.

sure would be nice if you could test for a bad TCU My FSM says: "9-15 ohms from pin 3 to ground at the TCU" (the duty C circuit). Next logical step is substitution of a "known good" TCU, then it becomes "time to get dirty". The older (and further down the road) these cars get it becomes more of a crap shoot as to what goes wrong with a specific one.

"Will a person who doesn't understand or remember the reason to install the FWD fuse then call a towing service that will flat-bed or otherwise protect an AWD car?" Tow me now, or tow me later? (groan!)

In these parts ANY car dealer (new, or used) is able to issue an appraisal for tax/insurance purposes. Cost can run from $25-$100, accuracy optional (real value is usually 1/2 appraisal value). You are a braver soul than I, I don't do test drives, you want a test drive, go for a rent-a-racer.

So if FWD fuse in holder (what size fuse to use?) and it still shudders is that tranny issue? The "proper" operation of the center differential requires an electrical signal to be generated in the TCM (transmission control module beside the steering collum) and make it's way, down a wire, through several connectors, to what is called the "duty C" solenoid, inside the transmission. This "duty C" solenoid switches on, and off, as required, to apply hydraulic pressure, as needed, to the clutch pack inside the transmission, that makes up your center differential unit. It is one of those things that you can spend a lot of time properly diagnosing just EXACTLY what the problem is. I have it on good authority that pin #3 at the TCM connector should show 9-15 ohms to ground (the resistance of the duty C solenoid) , this would eliminate most of the potential electrical problem (excepting the TCM), and once you eliminate the TCM (by substitution), you are indeed looking at a transmission "issue". In an older car, issues such as this are tough to track down, many times you can spend more time "tracking" than "fixing".

you are clearly ignorant of the truth behind this situation The "situation", as you wish to put it, is simply: the entire exploding population of this planet wishes to consume, and seems to want to go to great lengths to consume as much, as fast, as they can. Fix that and you will have beaten global warming. I consume a lot less than most folks I know, but if you live in a place that is temperate, you have me beat, because I insist on heating my house in the winter (and by that very fact make a major contribution to global warming).

I just want to state a few things for the record: 1) I have been on this planet for over 1/2 a century. 2) There is no such thing as a "free lunch". 3) Reducing a personal carbon footprint is pure folly, global warming is the natural result of simply more persons, the intelligent (but unpopular) solution is population reduction (you pick the method). 4) The largest domestic polluter is the electrical generation industry. (how many of us are willing to huddle in out huts with no electricity? Not many? I *thought* so.) If it is your desire to not use fossil fuel try this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodgas http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_gas_generator Even your government has tested this method and released a paper on it (.pdf) http://www.global-greenhouse-warming.com/support-files/wood_gas_generator.pdf (maybe you should buy your truck back and put one of these in the bed)