Reveeen

A dealer can give you the date from the serial number, and not the one on the title, or dash, the firewall. I'm not too sure if kicking that cat is a good idea though....... the plate is missing for a reason.

I have a '91 Turbo, and I can attest to the fact that it does not use/require the "normal" pads, I always have to order, and wait about 10 days to get them, while the "normal" pads are a stocking shelf item.

And we need to stop blaming American greed, "desk operating do nothings" and all the other common people we blame. Once upon a time, "the economy" was based on "value added", you took a raw material, be it steel, oil, flour, what have you, and transformed this raw material into something useful. Now the economy is based on BS, moving one piece of paper to another pile, and skimming off of the top, not adding any "real" value, nor providing ANY jobs. consumer consumption In the "modern" economy there will be no consumers, because folks without jobs don't buy anything, if you haven't noticed. There is no "blame" just simple reality.

American greed is the problem. I disagree. It is "desk operating do nothings" moving pieces of paper from one pile, to another, skimming the "cream" off of the top, and not doing, now, or ever, one bit of work to merit the money they earn. The economy can stand only so much of this BS, but sooner, or later, once the economy is based on a lot of nothing, it will collapse. I call these folk "Carnies in suits".

+10 on dumb idea Not to mention: Has anybody figured out WTF we are going to eat if farmers switch to producing crops with ethanol in mind? I have to disagree to some extent though: The government should be spending its time and energy on ensuring we have unpolluted food, and drinking water.

So goodbye $4.00 a gallon what are you paying? At the moment, $1.30.9 X 4.5= $5.89/gallon, price increase tomorrow.

how to hook up and run a intercooler An intercooler is a closed air to air heat exchanger that mounts inline between the turbo charger and the intake manifold to cool the air charge entering the engine. Compressing air with a turbocharger heats the air and this cools it. whats the diffrence between a BOV and BVP One vents to the atmosphere, the other vents to the intake system, same function, (preventing excessive pressure under a closed throttle condition), different noise. is the waste gate actuator still hooked up with the Bov? It should be, the wastegate actuator controls the baseline boost. where do you plumb in the line for a boost gauge? The intake manifold, as close to the backside of the throttle plate as possible, but pressure equalizes, so placement is not too important, but not down by the head(s). Probably the most successful common vehicle that is turbocharged are Saabs, some time spent checking one out wouldn't be wasted.

My dealer sells these: http://www.fencoparts.com/index2.htm Gabriel is listing shocks/struts: http://www.gabriel.com/

I got no papers as the guy i bought it from returned the plates NBD: with a bill of sale in hand (you got a bill of sale, right?) you waltz down to Service NB with: bill of sale, serial number, tax money, and $10, instant title! There might even be a title here (nudge, nudge, wink, wink) PM me, I am but a short drive down the road (Moncton), you can come to my house, and see Subaru bits in pieces to see what there is to work with. You gotta see what is shot, clutch wise, before you can play mix, and match.

Ok, a 350 turbo hydramatic uses a cable to "hold" passing gear, this cable is likely hooked to the carb (beside the throttle cable), it could be hooked to the throttle pedal (there's no telling without looking, motorhome chassis are made to order and can get weird). Check the cable for free operation. (there is a way to set the cable length, check a manual, it's difficult to explain) It should pull and return freely. There is a dome like tin cover on the side of the transmission, the governor "lives" under there, pop the cover off and pull the governor, don't mess with it, just check the plastic gear that drives the thing, they can strip. A turbo hydramatic 400 uses an electric switch for selecting passing gear, usually located on the throttle pedal assembly, check it isn't stuck. but then it wouldn't have the same weight rating anymore... Kinda like Subaru cars, the GM trucks/vans are kinda like lego, at least the pre 2000 stuff (within reason), a 30 series van (1 ton) should accept, with minimal modification, all the suspension stuff from the motorhome. If the 3/4 ton van has a "real" frame (the newer ones don't) it will be the same as a 1 ton frame. Weight ratings are kinda imaginary. I learned this fact from a department of transport officer. I had an old International 1/2 ton that scaled 11,990 lbs. (I was only going 3 blocks with this excessive load, the tires were almost flat with the weight) I was running with the plates from an International 1 ton (registered for 12,000) same colour, same year. He was NOT concerned with safety, his concern was if I had paid the road tax, I was told to "be on my way". Moral of the story: pay your tax, f**k safety. At vehicle registration time (when purchasing commercial plates) you can "bump" the weight rating of a commercial vehicle 1 category without any raised eyebrows, or questions, they will gladly take your money. A 1 ton usually registers @10,000 lbs, if you buy 3 month plates it won't be long until you get the weight where you want it.

1) Try Beck-Arnley http://www.beckarnley.com/ 2) Subaru Canada is still stocking.

REALLY.................stop for a minute and *think* how absolutely *STUPID* the question is. You can get any amount of power out of anything, with excessive amounts of money, and IF you are prepared to put up with the reliability of a Yugo.

will the gears from a 84 3/4 ton vandura fit in my '74 No. (the "carrier" (case, or center) is different) is a diff gear swap a feasible idea to increase driveability on this vehicle? It depends what you mean by "feasible". The best gearing for mileage will be found in a differential from a diesel powered 1 ton (or heavier) donor. It will also be the most expensive. I suppose you could find/order an alternate gear set for the rear end, again, an expensive prospect. It all depends what you can scrounge. high rev before shift? Depends on the transmission installed. (identify and ask again, it could be a seized/mis-wired kickdown switch, or a stripped governor gear) * A "motorhome* registration is not such a bad thing. If you can get it somehow resembling a motorhome you do not have to "scale" it, nor get to buy "premium" ($$$$) plates. I *think* you might find insurance is cheaper too. "Maybe* cutting the back off of the 3/4 ton van and stealing from the old motorhome would be more suitable?

The limiting factor in any daydream about power is money. With a "cosmic" amount of money almost any HP "numbers" are possible.

http://www.tab-rv.com/ I also don't want anything that eats up my MPG either. Anything you tow will eat gasoline.

how does one inspect a oil filter? You visually inspect it for rust. Here is my *thinking*: The early cars did not come with a transmission oil filter. There must have been "problems", or Subaru would not have released a retro-fit kit, that the dealers installed, under warranty, for nothing. (still available BTW for a low price) So, we must assume, that the filter has a function, and is not decorative. I would *think* that the appropriate time to change the filter is when you are changing the transmission oil. I hate parting with my money, as much as anybody, but following this *thinking* has resulted in a 4EAT with 308,000 miles on it. Maybe blind luck, maybe maintenance, who can say?

My local dealer uses Fenco rebuilt axles. http://www.fencoparts.com/index2.htm Of interest to note, the Fenco axles use a different boot (cheaper to produce) than the boot Fenco sells in a box. And yes, strangely the newer cars seem to "eat" the inner boots, rather than the outer boots?

It would appear to be a Subaru engine mated to an early BMW motorcycle. If I remember correctly BMW had some fairly drastic engine "issues" in the early 60's (the chrome cylinder lining was self destructing, and it was foolishly expensive to fix, cylinders not being removable from the crankcase), so it was possible to see all sorts of things mated to the BMW gearbox. I have seen this picture before, but at the time VW air cooled engines were "the favorite" swap, of which I had seen a few "in the flesh". The front end looks Hondaish, maybe 750,900, or early lead wing (one and the same), with an aluminum rim laced in. Tank, and seat, who knows, probably fiberglass road race relics from around the same time frame. I *think* one of these might be a bit more fun and about as practical: http://www.honestcharley.com/honest-charley-flathead-ford-v8-motorcycles.html

As a fellow, who had to grease many a bearing, automotive, or otherwise, what GD is saying is true, but does not apply to the wonderful world of vehicles. The primary reason to grease a vehicle is water displacement, not lubrication, very little lube is required for long life bearing operation. It is the contamination of that bearing with water, and dirt, that kills it (in most cases).

You are, in effect, asking "how high is up". Currently it seems to me that the quality of the gasoline you are purchasing is not what it once was. Here, in Imperial gallon land: (1/5 bigger) '88DL SPFI 5 speed I regularly get 38-42 mpg (highway) 60mph '91 2.2T auto @2500 rpm 36-38 (58mph highway) 8-18mpg (city) 13-19psi '92 Loyale SPFI 5 speed (maiden voyage) 38mpg (highway) 60mph Regular gas (2.2T= premium gas) above 60F. These are NOT US cars, and may, or may not, pass any kind of emissions tests. Mileage gets worse the cooler it gets, and absolute "tanks" at less than -15C. But not to worry, an Abrams tank requires 7 gallons of fuel to "light up", and averages 7 gallons per mile @29mph. http://books.google.ca/books?id=M1P6jT8_yrgC&pg=PA117&lpg=PA117&dq=abrams+tank+fuel+mileage&source=web&ots=U5vY1u1sVU&sig=i9pLbXd2Nt7XCTi7hnaXq67-wW0&hl=en

Let me throw a wrench into the works............. I'm assuming you are throwing an EJ engine into a car with existing SPFI. Why not try to get the SPFI working on the EJ engine? (it should work with some fooling about) That's why everyone dumped carbs at the end of the 80's. Silly me. I *thought* they dumped carbs because: 1) Emissions warranty (they had to make vehicles that would pass emissions for 5 years). 2) They could not maintain a pool of trained monkeys (mechanics) that could fix carbs. 3) They decided they could sell FI as a selling point boosting the overall price. There must be some reason the airplane guys use carbs?

The newest EA82 car would be a 1994 Loyale, this being 2008, there is a very good chance that over the 14 years the existing suspension would have sagged an inch, add that to picking up the suspension an inch, and I can't see the danger to any axles lifting an old car in the minimalist fashion (ie:lifting only the struts 2"). Though I have purchased no lifts, preferring to make my own, I fabbed my own blocks (6") and stole an extra inch in the struts, with new struts and springs. Of course those very same axles are likely at least 14 years old, and the boots are likely hard, and brittle, so maybe it would be prudent to re-boot the outer CV's at the same time while you are in there.

I SIMPLY do not understand. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm $35

as long as your there Axle boots, ball joint(s), tie rod ends, brake pads, and sway bar bushings. This is one of those jobs that tend to snowball a bit.............

You are looking to replace the upper strut mount. how hard to replace? Not hard at all, but you must own the tools to do it, the spring must be compressed, and held (safely), while you remove the top nut, and replace the upper mount.