Reveeen

Once out, you can carefully disassemble the offending switch, and clean it, they are quite "cleanable".

It all depends how bad they are. Around here you can buy an aluminum cleaner at the hardware stores (acid, you wear rubber gloves) that will clean the worst off, then it's lots of elbow grease with the polish. I use "Scotchbrite" scrubbers on motorcycle stuff, followed again, with polish.

The nuts are kind of edge welded to a piece of 1/16 plate, that is in turn spotted to the sheet metal, throw in a bit of rust, and the vigorous application of a 1/4 drive ratchet will break them free sometimes. Before pulling this type of thing apart I like to soak the thing with good penetrating oil for a couple of days (or a diesel/auto tranny oil mix), I just spray in all holes close by flooding the thing. Something to think about doing if you are not in a hurry (next time). After disassembly I soak it again. Then when attempting re-assembly, if it won't go easy by hand, I run a tap through the hidden fastener. The whole broken bolt in blind panels makes me cringe. Hindsight is always 20-20, you will be a bit more careful next time.

QUOTE=Uberoo]three questions, A. how much power can a EA or EJ 5 speed FWD transaxle take? B. How hard would it be to use a FWD 5 speed transaxle as a rear transaxle? C. was a LSD ever offered in the FWD manual transaxle? I have an idea for something with 300-350 HP and RWD with a transaxle an.d a LSD.. 1) The amount of power a unit of any kind can take depends on a couple of things: A) how the power "comes on", or the power curve the applied torque C) the "loading" These things are all related. 2) Not hard at all, or the hardest part will be devising a shifter, that is able to change gears in a recognizable fashion, and miss all the hardware between you and the transaxle. 3) No idea, I'm sure someone has managed to put a LSD in there. You can send 350HP down a 1/2 in shaft, but once you exceed the load carrying capacity of that shaft, it is going to fail. Transmissions operate under the same principal. Ford sold V-8 Mustangs for years, with a transmission rated for 200HP, getting away with it because the car was small, and light (that "loading" thing again). You say 350HP, but unless you are into clutch dumps (@5000-6000rpm), you will NEVER actually see 350hp in the highest load condition of starting from a stop. Let me offer, if you can attach the motor to the transmission without adapting, and choose to operate the unit in a reasonable fashion, you should be ok (EJ motor hooked to a EJ series transmission FWD, or AWD)

Was the carriage bolt/steel plate combo on top of the floor pan or down inside the hole? Whatever you have/are able to do. I had to use this method, bolting through the floor, of certain unnamed Toyota models, that there was virtually nothing there to do anything with, the round head not to immediately "eat" the carpet, and the plate to spread the stress. If you could fold the floor back, a bolt through, and tacked to a piece of flat iron, would hold things nicely (from spinning), and you could fold the floor back, welding the window shut. The whole damm thing is more work that the thing really merits but in the interest of "next time" you want to make it nice, or as nice as you can. You have not "lived" until you get in someone's "toy", with full belly pan, to work on, and you go to drop the belly pan, and every damm fastener breaks.

Blind fastener in unit body car messed up. It all depends how much room and what you have to work with. I have in the past: 1) cut a slot/hole in the chassis member and used one of those self retaining nuts (the kind with a wrap around spring clip on it, so as not to spin). 2) I have drilled the hole big enough to get a nut in, welded a nut to a piece of flat iron, then welded the flat iron to the frame (nut upwards in the hole you drilled). 3) I have drilled right on up through the floor (after removing the carpet), then welded a carriage bolt (rounded head) to a steel plate, stuffing this downwards, and using a nut on the underside. 4) I have cut a window in the unit body chassis, cut the old crap out, and welded a nut in there, then welded the window up. You do what you have to to get it done.

Well, if you were thinking "green?", a low compression engine has it's uses: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_gas Of course, something like this may be easier: http://www.utterpower.com/10hp_chevy.htm (I'm just kind of kidding and pulling your leg here!) i would just rather take on the whole turbo spfi swap. Infact, im going to start looking into it. At the end of the day, if you bought a "new" turbo motor, and changed the pistons, using the heads most suitable for your existing stuff, you would probably be close, cost wise, to rebuilding what you have (unless there is a hole in it). This is why they seem to prefer to adapt EJ engines into the older vehicles, depending what you pay for a very rusty early Legacy (I bought a not so rusty turbo one for $400 that is a daily driver), a $200 adapter, and a bunch of work, you end up with 145ish HP in a bullet proof situation.

Just a LONG one. Being an old man, let me assure you, when you find that "pristine" Indian/Harley/Vincent in a barn there is usually a pretty good reason it is still there. There were pictures posted here about a year ago of rebuilt/crate motors in the scrap because no one wanted them. Aluminum scrap contaminated with iron is worth 2-3 cents a pound.

I would have no issues if I bought one of these and pulled the intake and stuff and swapped it out for my carbed stuff, right? If lack of power due to less compression could be called an "issue" then maybe these are best left right where they are.

now he wants to go and spend 600 dollars on a POS And here I *thought* that about a Beretta. Look, you can't really diagnose a shifter/tranny problem by remote control, it could be either, as either/both could be worn out. You are just going to have to look, taking someone with you, to move the shifter, while you crawl around checking to see if it is doing anything. If you have movement/action, then it's transmission time. I have not worked on a front wheel drive GM car since the mid 80's, then it was not uncommon for me to have 50+ cars apart, transmissions out, on stands/blocks, waiting for parts. A fellow gets pretty jaded under these type of conditions and I haven't touched a GM car since (2.2 hour R+R and recondition times didn't help much). The parts are common all across the GM line, any GM car of the same size/year has identical parts (transmission/shifter) in it.

Well, if stuck, you did say that one of those Subaru numbers crossed over to the WK1945, so with the Subaru number you can order one (or two) but they are "pricey" (typically 3X aftermarket). I did not check aftermarket availability, and can do so if you like (likely a week, there are not many Subaru cars here, though I have been surprised before). My dealer here is small too, no stock, but available here in Canada (1 week, or next day with a $50 air freight surcharge).

I get 36-38 here (careful highway) '91 2.2T AWD auto, I would consider myself LUCKY to see 18 in the city, in winter.

Ok, I was at the Subaru dealer this AM, #725191120, and #25191GA550, are good numbers, described as rear caliper kits, no size specs. @ Raybestos, I got into a paper parts catalogue, probably way out of date, because my part guys do not "do" Raybestos. WK1945 is listed as a rear 1 3/8 caliper kit for Subaru WK1954 is listed as front/rear 2 1/8 caliper kit for Subaru WK2019 is listed as rear 1 3/16 caliper kit for Subaru

It's after 5PM here now, if you like I can sniff around here tomorrow, at least getting the difference between the 725191120 and 25191GA550. BUT: you will not get sizes in inches, these cars are metric. The WK1954 is the same seal as used in the front caliper of EA82 cars, the WK2019 is the "oddball" only used in some XTs (the clip in the WK1954 is for the parking brake lever boot).

Keeping in mind that the "sportier?" Legacys came stock with 15" wheels and in my case 195-60-15 tires. I am going to try outback struts once the snow goes from "God's garage" and 205-75-15 tires. In this case, from a 195-60, to a 205-75 is a 12% difference (60mph=67mph).

If you don't have a VIN, don't bother with them. The Subaru parts system is set up to require a VIN number, you enter the VIN in the computer, and away you go. It seems to me: 1) they have pretty well all ditched the paper books in favor of a computer. 2) they do not seem to be able to keep experienced parts people that are familiar with, well, parts. My local Subaru parts guy does put up with a lot of crap from me, but when I require him to go "exploring" through his computer, I have the courtesy to show up bringing coffee and/or gifts. He also knows that 9 times out of 10 I will be ordering something and with this relationship I get better than "trade" price. You only get out of a situation what you are willing to put in. When you originally started this thread I pulled out and checked my Beck Arnley book, who strangely does not offer caliper kits for the rear of EA82 Subaru cars. Raybestos offers 2 kits: WK1954 WK2019 You say the WK2019 is too small, the WK1954 is "the bigger one" (the spring clip is offered with the WK1954 because the kit covers a wide range of stuff, so you may, or may not, have to use it).

There seems to be no rhyme, or reason, in windshield prices. I bought a new windshield in Toronto Canada for $100 cash installed ('91 Legacy), here (at home), 1000 miles distant, the same windshield is $300. I *suspect* there is a lot of mark-up, and it depends on the volume the installer does with the wholesaler.

which is why the yamaha is still in pieces after a blown piston. http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/DirtBike.aspx

I have a modified "water buffalo" in a Rickman frame that is a whole bunch of "fun". http://www.suzukicycles.org/GT-series/GT750.shtml

sami's aren't 2 strokes Suzukis were two strokes when you were still a "glimmer" in your father's eye. And before that they were freeking piano manufacturers. Good luck with whatever you are trying to accomplish.

A lot of fellows in these parts, when the little engine blew out of the Suzuki, stuffed Chevette engines in there. How are dealer parts down there, here, 3 years, and you can forget the dealer for anything. Sorry, I have a kind of hate "thing" going on with Suzuki at the moment, they can't be bothered to sell me a carb kit for my Suzuki engined lawn mower. http://www.hovermower.com/hm19s2.htm Thank you for contacting Suzuki Canada. Suzuki Canada does not offer such a product in the Canadian market. Suzuki Canada is a distribution company for the Canadian market only, handling products which are manufactured by Suzuki Japan. We have no direct involvement in Suzuki manufacturing or distribution activities in any other country. This site is maintained for customers in Canada, and so contains only information on the Canadian models, programs and promotions which are under our control. Regards, Customer Relations - Relations à la clientèle SUZUKI CANADA INC. (905) 889-2677 ext. 2254

The only thing I have to add is: That cam end cap uses 3 "o" rings, the cam end ring, and 2 additional, 1 each, for the oil ports.

Boots cost me here: $12 they come in under the "Fenco" name and appear to be silicone (boot, 2 clamps, and a snap ring, if required). The only thing you could fisk up is: when installing on the transmission end, the hole for the pin is offset, so either it lines up, or it doesn't, if it doesn't you are 180 out. There may be a difference in the spline count, but I'm sure you can tell if it fits, or not. There is nothing else I can *think* of that is a potential train wreck. I do all mine here.

I suppose, if you don't wish to buy anything, a "T" at the oil pressure sender, and a carefully routed oil line, would get the job done. Remembering: The pressure sender is in a, well, not a "happy spot" for fooling with after the alternator is mounted. You ideally should be trying to keep pressure line runs to a minimum length (less chance of messing up). To the best of my knowledge all turbo cars have an oil cooler, manufacturers do not do this "lightly" (because it adds extra expense).

EMPI: http://www.empius.com/ At one time EMPI was a US company selling "made in USA" stuff, for the most part, strictly VWs. As VW stuff fell out of popularity, they branched out into other import stuff, and likely have changed ownership 2, or 3 times. All I have seen lately from EMPI is made in China junk.