Reveeen

Does it count went I bought my car for the sole purpose of playing with? Sure it "counts" otherwise we would all own something "boring".

Yes.............but: Adding a tap, with a piece of copper line attached, will also allow you to check fuel volume. If you check the specs, the pump is supposed to deliver X volume @ Y pressure within a time period, you open the tap to dial in the desired pressure, the quantity you drain off becomes the volume in the specified time. Pressure is important, but so is volume.

Please keep in mind that there isn't a worse place in Canada to buy a Subaru (or any car) than in the province where you find yourself. Any car rusts badly there, more so, than on the east coast. A 6 hour drive west, to the Toronto area, will get you a car about 100 times better. Check Craigs list Toronto.

When I did mine, I looked at the 2X2X6 blocks, and they looked kinda flimsy to me, especially if you are going to connect them, so I plated one of the open sides, now I know they won't do anything weird. I didn't mind building it and would do it again. Of course it helps when a neighbor drops by and asks: "where did you buy that lift kit, I didn't know you could buy one for those cars?"

Reve, do you think he should shop for a bigger huffer Not for 200HP, the stock one should be good for 300HP, before it runs out. You have to get it flowing exhaust. The aftermarket crossover, by itself, dropped the "boosting" almost 1000 rpm, I'm starting to see boost @ 2200 rpm. The up pipe does away with the cat and if you buy the right one, increases the exhaust velocity, you will see 10psi at around 3100 rpm. The 3" catless down really lets it breathe, 3" pipe to a 3" muffler, you will constantly run into the rev limiter. The early ones run rich, my plug colour is good, and so is the exhaust system colour. I plumbed in a front intercooler (stolen from a 9000 Saab) Now it's safe to turn the boost up. My engine is old, I limit myself to 20PSI

I *think* if the airplane guys are going this way it makes more sense. The downside is having to stock replacement parts, as carb and distributor parts are getting a little long in the tooth, and are not usually locally stocked at auto parts stores.

@ around 200HP, I wouldn't mess with any heads, other than a valve job. I'm assuming a non-interference 2.2, I would not be willing to loose the non-interference so cheaply, around 200HP can be easily had with what you have. Exhaust work , the crossover, the up, the down, the rear, an intercooler, and some boost will give you 200+ HP.

What I did with mine is: Use 1 1/4 X 3/16 flat iron from the existing upper mounts to the frame (tied together at the top and curved at the top to fit), so it looks like a inverted U, tweaked at the top to bolt to the existing shock mount. The bottom is bolted through the frame and plated on the inside. Then I made shock mounts to weld to the flat iron out of heavy angle iron, positioned at 6" lower than the upper bolt holes, nuts welded inside the angle. The rear does not really carry a lot of weight (unless you load the back of the car), empty I'm guessing about 350 lbs a corner, 500 lbs tops.

It's a balmy -17C out there this AM, and I am having an electrical "problem" that I could use a bit of help with, on my '91 Legacy. We are just about far enough into the winter that the inside of my car remains damp, snow tracked in, heater melts, etc. What I'm seeing is frost on the inside of my windows in the morning, from the accumulated moisture inside, making it's very own weather inside the car, closed up and cooled overnight. When I go to start up in the AM, the car won't start, it appears that the fuel pump is not working. What I do is, heat the interior, with an electric plug in heater, and once the car warms up a bit inside, all is well. An added "bonus" to this pre-heating is the TCM works properly, and I don't get a "duty C" fault, first thing. Any "quick and dirty" ideas? It is too cold out in "God's garage" to mess with this thing. Thanks in advance for any ideas (short of hauling the dash/wiring out for a look-see, because it isn't going to happen until it warms up)

Do I need to replace the valves or can a shop grind then down? You can't tell until a grinding attempt is made, there is a certain amount of material that must be left between the end of the ground chamfer and the head, as you can imagine grinding the chamfer lessens this, so you do the grinding, then inspect. With exhaust valves on Japanese cars, you would usually buy new ones. If I get new valves, should I get oversized ones? It depends. What are we considering "oversize"? You can buy valves with slightly oversize stems to make up for worn valve guides (but I don't *think* this is what you are talking about). HP gains in a turbo charged engine come from increasing the exhaust valve size, not the intake, as with a natural engine, you are "jamming" it in, right? For 200HP you don't need to go here, it is expensive, overly expensive. Also with the cylinders still have their honing marks and the cross-hatching. With 160k or so mile on the clock, would a re-build make sense at this point? It entirely depends on the history, if you see signs that this engine has been cooked, or run out of oil, then while it is out is the time to re-ring it. Otherwise I wouldn't go here (remembering I have 309,000 miles on my turbo motor that regularly sees 16-20psi).

Mine comes off with a tap from a soft mallet, and twisting my mouth the right way.

A) Your rad will be displaced 3" check your hoses, check your heater hoses for extra hose, coil wire will be too short, re-route your speedo cable before, you will need some material to deal with your shifter, the rest should be sorta ok @3". (your mechanical rad fan will move 3") Brake lines will have to be "fooled" with, all metric, ensure a supply. No idea, @6" the steering extension here was 5 1/2" (any extra here that you buy will go to the shifter). C)yes, guessing 2" (I *think* mine was 4") I dropped my entire sub frame in the back, so as to connect the front, and rear blocks. I used 2 wheel drive rear shocks (struts), picking up an inch there, instead of the way you are doing that. You may have to space down the hanger bearing (I had to), it's not critical, eyeball it before, and after, then decide. I'm up on 215/85 16" tires (bottom of the door is 29" off of the ground)

I have the best luck leaving my pit-bull dog in the car overnight, she is quiet and well behaved, just don't mess with her car.

I don't know about you fellas, but I KNOW I'm lifting my Sport Sedan, when the 3' of snow melts and it warms up in "God's garage".

Both cars are very capable cars, (the VW and the Subaru), in the scheme of things, an 8 year old car, of any make, is not the "best buy" for something that is not going to require work of some sort. While I prefer a Subaru over a VW, if I was in your place I would not be considering this (trading a "known quality", for something unknown) unless it involved putting a serious chunk of change back in my pocket.

-26 here. Speedo cable noisy Fuel pump relay sticks over night (have to heat the interior for about 10 minutes with a heater) Circuit board on TCU must be going bad, shows fault when cold, after I heat the interior it's ok. Door locks, and trunk lock, flakey Car creaks, and moans, when driven (like every Japanese car I ever owned when operated at -20, or colder). Of course, no high gear when cold, I'm told its "normal". '91 Legacy Sport Sedan 325,000 miles

Nipper: I am not saying you will not save money (I ran a VW diesel on stove oil for a couple of years), but are you going to save enough to merit?

Old guy scratches head. His turbocharged Legacy gives 38mpg Highway, gasoline here costs $1.10 a liter (yesterday), or $4.95 an imperial gallon. (.13/mile) A diesel @ 49mpg, diesel here costing $1.42 a liter (yesterday), or $6.39 an imperial gallon. (.13/mile) Ok, show me the beef?

Sorry for the lame post!! Not so lame, the info does not cover all situations. For example: 1) a 6" block is about the maximum without getting into a hand brake cable nightmare. 2) a 6" lift requires a 5 1/2 steering extension 3) the rear shifter mount becomes VERY important to be able to shift the thing after a lift (almost count on a new one, or drill the old one for a nut and bolt) 4) longer rear flexible brake lines can be "difficult" to find 5) the exhaust poses it's own little nightmare 6) while here you can pick up an additional inch in the suspension (in the strut mounts) 7) watch your strut offset 8) you can lengthen the front lower control arms (to get your camber under control) about an inch (maximum) before you run out of axle length.

Out this way there is a push on for "re-moulded" tires. http://www.google.ca/searchhl=en&q=remould+tires&btnG=Google+Search&meta= The claim is environmentally "friendly" and "green", in effect they re-tread a quality casing with a tread of your choosing, some of the available treads are pretty aggressive. I have a couple of buddies that swear by them, and big trucks have been using them for years. Maybe?

There were two Canadian tire companies Remco in the west and President tire in the east that joined and ended up calling themselves Tirecraft. http://www.tirecraft.com/locations/british_columbia.asp I would give them a try.

You are mistaking "Tie down points" with "tow hooks". Different thing, different function, I would consider using a rope on one to temporarily pull a "rolling load", not "stuck in the mud", not "stuck in the snow", and not "rolling load" greater than the weight of your car.

As a side note: At one time Cadillac used to send fuel, on it's way to the engine, through a special pipe in the oil pan to get heated, just to take advantage of "fuel expansion when warm" to give a bit more mileage. I guess, not fill it quite so full? I see the same thing here with my legacy, when I fill it to the brim on a warm day, and don't drive it, though mine just runs out the vents. I'm not sure there is an answer here, too much cold fuel in a can, can warms up, fuel has to go somewhere.

Yes............

You don't need an extra hub. The wheel bearing(s) are just two conventional ball bearing assemblies with a spacer in between. Just pull the axle, beat the seals and bearings out, tap the new stuff in, replace the axle, and you are good to go. I use sealed ball bearing assemblies, pulling the inner seal out, checking the grease and allowing extra grease I put in the center (where the spacer lives) to get at the bearings. New axle seals are always a good idea. Bearings run me here $4 for el-crapo Chinese (each) to $15 for SKF (each) (sorry I don't have the number handy)