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Everything posted by Reveeen
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Converting my Loyale Wagon to Electric?
Reveeen replied to Davalos's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
"The point is to drive-by the gas station & and be able to go "nah nah!"" Ok, so driving by the gas station, gas @ $2.50/gallon (though you should be trying $4.00/gallon like it is where I live) and feeling good about what? Investing $2500 in a $500 car? Being "green"? (do we forget where electricity comes from?) -
I *think* it would almost go, without saying, that ANY suspension mod on a 10+ year old vehicle with "booted" axles (half shafts) would include rebuilding/replacing those boots. I know I expect to do mine while in there. I *think* too I did mention horsepower, the standard EA81/2 horsepower isn't going to break things in a hurry, but if doubled (or tripled) the more extreme angles will. I am concerned a bit about driveshaft angles, but figure eyeing it up as I go will keep me within reasonable. We must remember too that extreme angles will create frictional losses and most of us are not starting with a whole lot of power to begin with.
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I'm building a lift and the same question has been bothering me. Checking this out here: http://alliedarmament.homestead.com/Comparison.html (3rd/4th set of pictures from the top) It would seem that Allied is not moving the differential down. Now, I'm not saying you shouldn't move the differential, but maybe not quite as much as your lift, say 3" (on a 5" lift), giving you 12" of ground clearence? I guess it would all depend: 1) on how the axle angles look 2) on how much horsepower you are intending on trying to put through your rear dif./axles.
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Converting my Loyale Wagon to Electric?
Reveeen replied to Davalos's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I saw an electric conversion for a Subaru FWD somewhere on the internet that went into a 3 wheel car a guy was building. http://www.rqriley.com/doran.html Start there, look for links. I kinda fell accross this link: http://www.e-volks.com/index.html There are also multiple places where guys have shoved one of those Chinese air cooled Diesel engines in small cars (Geo Metro/Suzuki) using a belt torque converter hooked to the transmission input shaft. You can kinda get away with that because, while the horsepower is low, the torque is high. http://www.utterpower.com/10hp_chevy.htm -
What are my chances of Breaking something?
Reveeen replied to Bucky92's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Many times I have changed a master cylinder without bleeding the brakes. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, but worth a try. Hook up your new master (making sure it is pre-bled) then with the cover off, and someone that will listen to you on the brake pedal, SLOWLY get the brake pedal pushed to the floor, at some point it will open up (about 3/4 down) and allow the air to back bleed through the master (you will see bubbles) have the person on the brake pedal STOP there, until all the air back bleeds (maybe even tapping the master at the same time). Be careful, you usually only get one shot at this. -
Thinking of buy Legacy
Reveeen replied to nathan.chase's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have a '91 Sport Sedan. "I know these motors have headgasket issues but when does that show up? anyone know?" At 350,000 I am still on the original head gaskets. "are there other things to look out for." As these cars age they become high maintence cars, you have 3 choices (or the owner before you had 3 choices) 1) spend thousands at the dealer 2) keep it maintained yourself in a reasonable fashon 3) do nothing, fixing only what breaks, when it breaks When buying one used you must take into consideration how the car was maintained, meaning: you will pay premium money for a properly maintained car with dealer receipts, a little less if maintained by the owner in a "proper fashon", in the third case it is very likely that you will have to cough up big money to get it back to "right", you will pay little money. At 205K it should be timing belt time (or should have been) this will likely include guides, water pump and maybe tensioner. U-joints should be showing wear (needing replaced) maybe wheel bearings, maybe brakes. Inspect the rad. Exhaust system, paying special attention to the expensive muffler. Rear strut mounts (for some reason they seem to wear out, you will hear a rear suspension squeak). If an auto, make sure on start-up the "power" light does not flash, otherwise you will be into the transmission. "what is their clearance and offroad capabilities" Without modifying the chassis (lifting, fitting bigger tires/wheels) none. These are not really off-road cars without modifications. I have a lot of body flex on roads, never mind off-road, I would consider a full cage a requirment for real off-road. -
I have noticed that when cold (-20) my Legacy does not generate more than 13 inches of vacuum when cold, it's fine (20) when warm, maybe this is what you are seeing? (or feeling the result of?) and of course, being turbocharged, if driven cold there sure isn't a lot of vacuum availaible to make the booster work, at least for the first little bit.
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And on the other hand.........I just ordered up some 215/85/16's 10ply lugs with a 30.39" diameter.
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I *think* they are refering to height, as in placing the end of a tape measure on the ground and measuring up to the top of the tire.
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somewhat silly heater question
Reveeen replied to SakoTGrimes's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
To get water flow there must be a pressure side and a suction side, you would plumb an aux heater into existing heater lines in series. For many years there have been aux water type heaters for big trucks and boats, you may even find one to your liking in the back of a passenger type van, or a regular type van, if the van was optioned that way. Gruman vans (alumnium "bread box" vans) sometimes come with aux type heaters, or the regular heater in them is pretty universal. They are out there, maybe more so in the north, you shouldn't have to make anything, just keep your eyes open. If you found you needed a small water pump (to increase the water flow) a bus usually has one or two 12V booster pumps, just for this purpose, about mid way up either side (or they are availaible for boats). -
Help me out here................ You are asking about repair frequency on a 20 year old car, that you are going to modify, and then thrash? Are you serious? Maybe leasing a Toyota Yaris for 3 years might be more suitable?
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I happen to know for a fact (because I tried) that aftermarket (new) strut mounts will not fit and/or work properly on your Legacy. I was in a situation where I needed new rear strut mounts for my Legacy, *thinking* I would save a few bucks I tried aftermarket (Gabriel to be specific, as they had the only listing for my car) so like you I ordered them. So now my car is sitting on stands, with no rear struts, and the mounts don't fit/work. Local Subaru dealer time, 2 Subaru strut mounts, and air freight later, all became well. If I was changing from an air ride anything, be it a Subaru, or a Lincon, I would locate used strut assemblys from a junk yard and replace the shock parts with new.
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Ok................. When a junkyard (or whoever) ships you a used transmission they usually put wire(s) accross the belhousing (through the mounting bolts) to hold the torque converter in. Whenever installing an unknown/used transmission it's a good idea to replace the front seal because if it leaks after the fact you will be pulling the transmission and doing it anyway. Check the flex plate for cracks, as was mentioned, they crack at the crank mount. If you put a yardstick accross the belhousing and measure from the inner edge of that yardstick to the flex plate bolt holes and compare that measurement to how far the flex plate sticks out from the belhousing surface on the engine, that will tell you if it is seated. A few "cold ones" in your fridge should be more than enough to tempt a mechanic to drop by on a Saturday and give you a hand with this, it is not difficult, every auto transmission is the same in this respect, your difficulty lies in not having done this before, make him/her show you what he/she is doing, watch carefully, it will be over before you know it.
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Well I'm not quite sure what you are talking about. You take the torque converter and hang it on the input shaft of the transmission, pushing it in (by hand), now if you had it out and looked at it you would notice that there are tabs on the leading edge of the transmission side just past the area where the front seal rides, these tabs MUST index into the oil pump (front pump), so you push it in and turm (or rock) it until these tabs fit (travelling inwards maybe an inch) and the torque converter "clicks" into place (or into the pump). Now hang the transmission on the engine (or engine on the transmission), but chances are if you are hanging the transmission on the engine without a proper transmission jack the damm torque converter will fall out, so be careful and gentle. When the transmission and engine are mated (bellhousing to engine block, no gaps) and the torque converter still engaged into the front pump, there will be a small gap between the torque converter and the flex plate (you should be able to freely spin the torque converter with the engine/transmission bolted up tight) if you can't you have trouble, probably the torque converter fell out and you must unbolt the transmission from the engine evenly until you can spin the torque converter and "click" it back into the pump, I say "evenly" here because if it isn't even the torque converter will bind on the front stub that indexes it into the center of the crankshaft, and you will never spin it. Bolting the flex plate to the torque converter actually draws the torque converter out of the transmission (about 1/4") and completes the mechanical attatchment.
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anyone ever make a Demon carb work on a soob?
Reveeen replied to hatchsub's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The Weber is rated at 325cfm, but it is what is called a progressive carburator, meaning it does not open all at once. This is done so that you do not have driveability problems. For a carb to operate effeciently/properly there has to be some vacuum in the intake manifold (or the intake manifold must be at a lower pressure than the surrounding air), this does two things, it keeps air moving in the right direction and it causes the fuel to be drawn into the engine. If you install too big a carb on an engine and open it up the low pressure area (in the intake manafold) dissappears and no fuel is drawn in.