fshnidiot

I used a metal coat hanger to open the back sliding window. I slid it through the gap in the middle, unlatched the slider, and reached in and unlocked my door. Nice and easy, and no damage. Frank

Well, atleast it reads at 0 oil pressure now so I'm guessing the gauge isn't working properly, and it still ticks, but it sounds quieter and wet, instead of dry and loud. Drive it till it blows time since I've already hurt it. Thanks for all the help! Frank

O-ring? What O-ring? There wasn't anything there. I'm gonna drop 1 in and see what happens and hope for the best. Thanks for the tip. Frank

Non hydro motor. Oil pickup was there so that wasn't it. I dropped the pan and found some chunks in the bottom. 1 piece looks like JB weld or something that was molded into a hole so I'm gonna guess that it's dead:horse: and start the search for a good cheap short block to drop my manifold and weber on. Again. Thanks for the help, Frank

New sending unit and I replaced the wiring with about 18-24" of old wiring replaced from where the harness splits behind the intake manifold.

There's oil in the filter and some dripping out of the pump. No evidence of any oil antifreeze mixing, no bubbles in the radiator etc. The pressure guage needle comes up about 1/2 way to the 0 mark on the guage for a minute or so after startup and then drops to the stop peg as it warms up. Then I get the blow dryer effect. Frank

I'll go pull the filter right now and check. It hasn't been run much (5-10 miles at 35mph or less back and forth to the parts store) so hopefully I haven't hurt it yet. Back in a few. Thanks, Frank

I just dropped a resealed EA81 I bought into my 82 Brat. Fired right up but I have no oil pressure and valves ticking bad. I rebuilt and dropped in another oil pump (I checked it and it's within the specs in my book for wear. both pumps are still good) and adjusted the valves with no change in pressure or noise. No leaks anywhere, temp stays cool, sounds and feels really good and strong except for the ticking. With the motor running i removed the oil filler cap and I have enough air coming out of it to use it as a blow dryer. Air is also blowing out the valve cover breather tubes like crazy.(forced air induction for my weber ) Am I right in thinking there is no oil pickup tube going from the block into the oilpan and as a result I'm just sucking air? It's full of fresh oil so I know that's not the problem. Thanks, Frank

Marysville, Wa. Smokey Point exit.

Wouldn't it be the towing companies fault that the damage to the tranny occured? I'd go after them not your boss, he didn't hook your car improperly, they did. Frank

PM sent thanks!!!

My driver's side window gear broke and I'm stuck with the window part way down on my 81 Brat. Since I won't find a gen 1 Brat there, what other vehicles can i check in the junkyard for the part that would fit the door and window on my Brat? Frank

Coolant Temp Sensor. Found on, under, or behind the intake manifold depending on which year motor. On my 86 XT Turbo it's behind the manifold on the passenger side. 2 wires leading to a plug with a small wire clip to hold it in place. There's a good write up on how to permanently fix it on the XT site. http://www.subaruXT.com Frank

+1 on the CTS. Mine did that until I hardwired it in and scrapped the plug connectors. They get corroded real quick. Frank

I'm hitting the PAP in a minute so I'll look and see what they got. This part is for an EA82T I'm assuming. *Update I think I found 1 for ya off an 86 XT Turbo. Here's a couple pics. Is this whatcha need??? Frank

I got it up in Bellingham so it might have come from Canada originally. I'll check the XT site for the manual switch idea, that could be cool! Thanks!!! Frank

Air suspension. I just pushed the height control button. It only gives you an inch or 2 but with that and the pugs it looks more like a real 4WD to me. Frank

Here's a couple pics of mine. It's on 195 70R 14's.

+1 I had my 86 XT on 14 inch pugs for awhile and with the air suspension on high it looked SWEET!!!!! Plus the larger tires fill in the wheel wells nicely!! Try that 1st and go from there if you need more. You'll be happy you did. Frank

Come on Connie, you only got about a dozen bolts/nuts to remove and you could have it out in less than an hour. Fix the seal and I'll bet that takes care of the clutch slippage problem too. I pulled my motor and dropped in the other motor in my Brat with a come along hanging from a collection of 4x4 posts (my redneck engine hoist:lol:) all by myself with a bad back so I know you can do it. Take a breather for a couple days and get back in there before it's too damn cold to do it. Frank You can do it!!!!!!!

:banana::banana::banana:. Congrats on gettin it finished up!!! We all knew you could do it! Now that you have Weber knowledge you need to fly out here and fix mine for me!!! Get those last few bugs sorted out and go for a nice long drive!!! Frank:)

I'm not sure if they did this on the older Subies but my 81 hatch had 2 holes in the frame by the heads that gave access to the heads from in the wheel wells that allowed me to pull them with the block still in the car. Look for 2 black rubber plugs on the inside of the frame rails on each side of the engine. If not you might be able to undo the motor mounts and lift the motor and tranny enough to get the room you need without pulling the motor.:)Frank

:cool: I had to put on my shades to look at them!! Those are so pretty I'd be afraid to put them on. Frank

I'm at approximately 2 turns out. Anything below 1000rpms and it tries to sputter and die after it's warmed up to normal operating temp. Mixture screw on the primaries runs smoothest right at 2 turns out so I'm sure it's jetted right. Secondaries are at 1 1/2 turns. I believe edrach has a few of Cameron's Webers on his Brats and has had no problems and all I've read here says he (Cameron) knew what he was doing in rebuilding these carbs. I don't have a fuel pressure regulator in there but my fuel pressure is between 2 1/2 and 3 lbs. right where it should be. I'm tempted to try switching it over to my good running 81 and see if the problem is the Brat instead of the carb but I'd have to dig into all that vacuum mess and I don't want 2 Brats sitting in my yard not running. I am vacuum hose illiterate when it comes to these subies. Thanks for answering, any other ideas welcome please. Frank

:banghead: OK, I've spent the last week reading and trying everything as far as tuning this Weber and I've noticed that most of these threads about backfire problems either fade out (Yeti,Slideshow86,ect) or end in a Weber for sale add. Has anyone ever FOUND the problem and fixed it? I have an 82 Brat with a fresh resealed EA81. DG series 32/36 electric choke weber that came with the brat when I bought it from lepetitprince that was rebuilt/modded and jetted for Subaru application by Cameron (former board member from Australia) in 2004. I've set the timing according to GD's instruction. I've put my 50 cents in the ASV's and sealed them off. Compression test shows 165 to 175 on all cylinders. I have 1 vacuum hose from the carb to the dist, 1 going to the cab for the heater controls, and my brake booster hooked up, all other vacuum ports are capped off except for the vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold under the carb where I have the vacuum guage attached. I presently have 19lbs of manifold vacuum at rough idle with no leaks I can find. I've followed all the tips on setting and adjusting the idle/mixture screws. I've tried 3 different coils and 3 different distributors in various combinations. New cap,rotor, plugs,wires ect. Fresh gas. I can get it to idle at 1100 rpm but it pops and backfires when under acceleration in neutral and it's even worse when under load. I have pulled my dist. and tried chasing my timing around and that hasn't helped either. It seems to run best at the farthest end of the adjustment range on the dist like I'm off 1 tooth but when I move it 1 tooth it moves all the way to the other end of the dist adjustments like it should be back 1 tooth if that makes any sense. I have the carter/weber 1bbl it came with, and a hitachi 2bbl on manifolds I could go back to but I HATE and don't want to replace all that vacuum hose mess 'cause I know I'll never get that back in there right. Sorry about being long winded!!! Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated!!! :banghead: Frank