bobjr94

If the engine is idling to fast the ecu will cut fuel in order to try to keep the speed down. When you rev it up do the do the 2 injectors come back on ?

My 85 did that when I got it. Run fine, then start dying out loose all power, then go back normal again. People thought I was breaking down if someone was riding with me. In my case it was the mechanical mixture control, all the vacuum lines, valves and thermoswitches. Some of them had went bad it can be hard to test each part by its self. Take the 2 larger hoses off the top of the carb(not the fuel) , put a cap of some kind on the fittings on the carb and see is it runs better. If you leave it like it will be running to rich though and your gas mileage will go way down. I put in smaller jets from a damaged older carb back in mine to fix that problem.

They made spfi EJ motors but they never made it to the states. I think the spfi motors use optical triggers in the distributors and I dont think the escort does, so the ecu may not work with a ford distributor. Injector size is based more on HP than on engine size, so even if everything worked it would be to lean. The ej18s were about 110hp? and the ea82 81hp.

I drive my 85 brat about 110 miles a day and for the last 2 years it has served me well. The 4 speed transmissions are not very good and can shift hard and grind. I put a 5 speed in mine and it feels much better. I carry odd parts in it, heaviest thing was a complete chevy 350 and did ok. With my 70% freeway driving I have been getting a bit over 32mpg for the last month after trying 0-20 synthetic oil. With cheap old 5-30 I got 28-31mpg usually. Best use for a brat, take it to the drive-in. Pop the t-tops and open the back window so you can hear the radio and with the seats in back you have a perfect movie watching car.

How big of a trailer ? Its still only a 1.8, it has 111hp and 134lbs of tq, even if that was up to 130hp and 150ft lbs that doesnt leave a whole lot of extra. I would say use the turbo cam still, I believe it holds the intake open longer because the intake is under pressure you will get better cylinder filling & more power.

There was this one also, last post was just 2 weeks ago. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85423 And my write-up with pics http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2619108/3

I think that was all I needed. If you can cut off some of the trans wiring harness on the car side it will be easier to hook up. You need reverse lights and the 4x4 and 4x4 low switches spliced to the original wiring. I still havent wired in the 4x4 lights on mine but the reverse should be done to keep it legal.

Let me know if you have any questions about the swap. Think I have about 5000 miles on since I put in the 5 speed and no problems. Only trade off is gaining about 150rpm on the freeway, my mileage didnt change on way or the other.

Im sure it could be done but may take more time than its worth. It would be hard to make something work in the rear. You would need identical size and tooth count rotor for the sensor to read, or it would think the wheel speed is different front & back and disable the system. I also dont know if it would work as a standalone unit(with out input from the engine computer).

On some cars (subaru and other) Ive had it take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour for all the water to get burned out of the exhaust. Fastest way is to go drive it up a long hill, if its just sits and idles can take along time. Its best to always have the head resurfaced, it could be warped, in that case the gaskets will keep failing. I have also have seen an ea82 head that had a hole in the casting and water just pored into the exhaust. Easy way to tell if its fixed is take off the water pump belt & rad cap, start it up and rev it up a few times. The water level shouldnt change. You should then let it run for 15 minutes and make sure the fans and everything is working then go drive it. It will smoke alot the first time you drive it.

I dont believe it will fit, I think its to wide, unless you cut and weld a section above the crossmember. That would be alot of work for a small gain, 69hp to 81hp I think the ea82 has. I think an ej22 is actually narrower then an ea82 and would give about 40hp more than the 82 if you want to do a total swap anyway.

This is how my brat came out after the 5 d/r 5 speed swap. Its got a good spot to keep some cds.

I made a shorter & short throw shifter when I put a 5 speed in my brat. I cut out about 2 1/4 inches of the middle of the shifter (top arrow) and welded it back together. Then cut the bracket from the shifter(bottom arrow) and move it up about 1 inch and welded it back on. The further the bracket from the pivot point the less the shifter will need to be moved for each gear. So now the shifter sits a little lower and feels much better. BTW: I had an aluminum shifter ball on my wrx, it froze your hand in the winter and burned it in the summer. Ill stick the a rubberery one.

The gauge on my 85 brat always reads up high. When I got it, it also had a leak in the same place. It needed a new oil pump gasket so I checked the oil pressure relieve valve when the oil pump was off, it works fine so I havent worried about the gauge reading high.

Something else, maybe you have an intake leak on that side. Or if the motor did have water in it, it may have bent a connecting rod causing, split a piston or gasket giving one or more low cylinders. What was the compression #s you were getting.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/bobjr94 Got 2 of our current subarus on there.

Thats the problem, keeping a carb tuned. I drove home in 102 degrees last summer and its been as cold as 17 this winter and carbs cant compensate for that. Some good electronic feedback carbs with coolant temp and oxygen sensor can maybe half way but not the mechanical open loop system like my brat had. When I got mine it ran like crap and sometime would almost die out. Its hard to diagnose all the mechanical valves and vacuum switches, so I took off all the feedback stuff and rejeted the carb jets a few #s smaller and its run pretty good since then. This is the first car with a carb I have had in a long time and Im not missing my fuel injection. Also a f/i swap could get rid of the mechanical advance distributor and failing vacuum advance.

I have one valve cover connected to the port in the air cleaner, and the other valve cover to the pcv valve. This is not the factory routing on this kind of subaru but cut my oil blow by way down. I use to always have an oil film or sludge getting blown into the filter or housing. This is the configuration used by most v-6 or v-8 engines, one side mainly in, the other side mainly out and seems to work well on my ea81 brat. Under high rpms or if your engine is worn out you still may get blow-by into the filter but most of the time what ever makes it up the tube will be sucked into the pcv valve and not plug up your filter or get into your carb. You can also get inline oil separators, that cut some of the blow-by out. Some turbo cars have them, but they are also on newer escorts and theres tons of them in the junk yards.

If you can keep 32mpg i would do it then. Mine ranges from about 28-34 depending on how its running today and how cold it is. I would like to have more consistency so that will be the next on my list of things to do.

No one will do it probably because of emission laws. Putting in an older engine could get them or you into trouble. Most likely no one would would ever inspect it in that state I wouldnt think. You need to find a shop that dosent go by the book, so much.

I tried searching but didnt see anyone with before / after mileage. I was looking for someone who actually has done it. Ill ask GD about his swap then. Most spfi threads I found end up with people arguing about just putting on a weber vs an fi swap and if they are going to do a FI swap put in a ej motor.

Since I just put in a 5 speed trans I may as well keep the ea81. I would like to know how has spfi and how did it effect power & mileage ? Im sure it will run better, or run better more consistently. But since I drive the brat 110 miles a day gaining a few mpg's would be well worth the swap.

This is all it took to put a 2pc driveline in my brat. I cut out a small steel plate that I put on the floorboard under the seat to give the bolts a bit more strength, rather than just drilling holes in the floor and putting bolts though. For the full read-up see this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85423

I seen people keep talking about Jerrys kit. Id like to see pictures of it and what it comes with..

Just put it in last week. Drives way better, feels like a different car. The shifter is always where you left it, none of the sloppy what gear is it in feelings and when in stop & go traffic you not revving 2nd to 3000, then bogging down in 3rd. Now you can leave it in 3rd and drive along nicely. The old 4 speed finally got jammed in 3rd and wouldnt come out, it been getting stuck in 4th for a while but use to come back out. Ive driven enough loyals and owned 2 I think and never had any trans problems with them. The EA81 engine EA82 trans is pretty easy. Took about 4 days of a few hours a day. There are a few write ups on it already, I took a few pictures of things I thought were missing. If you want to read about the swap I put it on my page. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2619108/3