coroboto

Sweet! Thanks for the advice!

CalTrend. They did seat covers for my 2011 outback. Same issue; I snowboard and am always getting in my car wet and beige interior kept getting water stains. They fit really nice and are easy to install. The website I found this company at was CarID (overpriced). Cheers!

I am researching on this site for my brothers 95legacy. He has this issue where the car will kill the engine at random times. The stereo stays on when the engine shuts off driving down the road... Does this sound like the faulty alternator? The car after warm will die at idle also but not when it is cold. Does anyone know of a post that shows how to ground out the OBDI sensor so the check engine light will flash codes (and what those flashes mean)?

I am pretty sure it is the steering rack. I can rock the wheel with one hand on the front of the tire and one opposed. There is a slight knocking sound and the steering control arm moves in unison with the knock. I have a parts car and need to yard the rack out of it yet. I have never done any steering rack work so I am hesitant to start. I will probably finish this weekend and post results.

I have a similar problem. The wobble only occurs during turns at low speeds. Braking helps stabilize the wobble and so does accelerating. I have a 92 automatic transmission legacy, the 2.2 L non-turbo, and the transmission has a "power" mode (opposed to manual) that is out. When I pin the wheel to one side and drive slow it is not very smooth and the wobble becomes intense. The work I have done to address the issue: replaced lower ball joint replace half shaft replaced brake pads and rotors replaced knuckle assembly that contains bearing replaced bearing replaced wheel and rim Nothing has improved the issue I am thinking it is possibly: power steering rack steering ball joint steering pump automatic transmission bearing??(does this exist??) (after reading this thread) motor mounts any help would be appreciated. What ever happened with this problem?

I started a swap. Am gathering parts now...really trying to find a job to afford parts. Graduated from OSU (GO BEAVERS) and now I am sitting around my house taking apart an EJ22 and stripping my 92 gold legacy. I have extra parts (side effects of scrapping cars). rear EJ22 diff, rear half shafts, doors, windows (minus windshield), AWD fivespeed, rear hatch, tan interior... My house has a line of three Subaru wagons along the side of it. Funny. Just started the swap and need money so it's at a stand still...all the parts are so easy to find all you need is some time to research and some cash or cars to part out and trade in order to get the right parts and know what to do.

all the pictures are gone....can they be reposted? I am trying to figure out what you guys are talking about. I want to try and put the legacy suspension into a loyal, and I think that is what this thread is loosely about. Please correct me if I am wrong. would love to not have the body roll in corners...I know the XT6 knuckles and sway bar could help and am planning on that. I am attempting to build a wagon for the snow and am wondering if this would modification would help the handling in the snow and slick conditions? Thanks again.

What exactly is the procedure for doing it the "right" way considering that it seems like the whole cam shaft would have to be removed? I am gonna file the smeared key way and have my buddy weld it up and file it until the crescent moon fits and the pulley slides over it...right?

I could not figure out where else to post this. I am trying to replace the front passenger side wheel bearing. My car is a 90 legacy with the ABS. I can't figure out how to separate the the guard plate and ABS ring without ussing a puller to pull out the front section of the housing that contains the splines that match the drive shaft. I have someone who will press the old bearing out and press the new one in. I have the seals and grease. The guy who will help said he could not help with the ABS ring in place and am finding no help yet. Any help would be a start ... Thanks...I have the faith in USMB.

So I am pretty close to the end of my rope. I have similar problems as listed before. The car is a 90 legacy automatic...thinking about the ABS comment...replaced pads without removing brake fluid container lid and compressed brake cylinder... So I have a wobble in the front end originating from the passenger side. 1. I replaced the brake pads and rotors 2. Replaced both front CV (half-shaft) axles The wobble occurs primarily when turning left and now has started to occur when turning both ways. The wobble seems to emanate from the passenger a-arm. The bearings really do seem secure ( I have done the wiggle test to all my wheels when my wagon was on a lift this weekend), the steering arms are good as well (atleast upon visual and physical inspection) and I am unsure as how check the ball bearing at the bottom of the a-arm. Possibly could be the ABS problem because the ABS light has started to come on occasionally. Any help would be helpful. I was hoping for some tests to perform on components...such as ABS or lower ball joint. Cheers.

I had this same issue (rough running not gut churning sound) except it only happened after the car was warm...the point I am getting at was that it was the distributor in my case. There is something like a low ground fault ...that is what my mechanic said. The distributor was sending a ground to the ECM. Hope that might help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28577&highlight=loyale+hesitation&page=4 Hope this helps.

So I totaled a 93 Legacy LS and then weeks later bought a 90 Legacy L. I started to part out my 93 Legacy (that has a five-speed) and it occurred to me: "why don't you make this (90 Legacy)a five speed?" So I am looking into the swap right now... Exactly what will work... Do I need to swap harnesses also? Do I need to swap dash panels? The ABS system is only in the automatic? Do I need to take the ABS system off when I switch to a five speed? Is there a hill holder cable? This swap has not been discussed I don't think...I looked. If it is point me in the right direction, Thanks. I am also getting ready for the EA to EJ swap (must save cash first)...ha.

"If I have said it once I have said it a thousand times...." Are you my dad. Thanks to you for the advice, but seriously what is the difference? I still have to butt connect and clip the same amount of wires? It is no easier to do that that just hard-wire it in. The link is down I need to trouble shoot some lack of sound that is coming out of my (or should I say not coming out of my car) speaker before I install the newer aftermarket deck. I would very much like it if someone had a resource for this info. Peace and thanks, Cory

I am having the same problem finding the 90 Legacy stereo info. That link goes to nowhere now. I need to know what the wires in the harness are for so I can install my stereo...I am tired of paying people to do my stereo so I am learning now. Thanks, Cory

Ok so I meant to say that: the mechanic read the codes my car was sending when warmed and unable to re-start. The problem was that the distributor and when warmed it would send a ground to the ECM. I replaced the distributor (~200$) and now the thing purrs like a kitten. So the problem was a warn out distributor terminal and I replaced the part and now I am happy... The real problem I have now is the mess I made of the car I bought... found the ea to ej swap section on this site. I am considering two things now. 1. fix front end clip on jacked front end of 93 LS legacy. Engine is good and so is transaxle. 2. Put engine into 92 loyale. Thanks for your help all. Peace

The mechanic read the codes my car was sending and apparently my distributor is grounded for the high end of something. Well I am replacing the distributor at four this afternoon. I will post results... Apparently I still may have to replace the ECM I tried the whole buying a new car...totalled that car in under a month(93legacy LS). Gonna swap the engines though so that should be nice... A 2.2 liter mpfi in A legacy...yeAh:banana:

How do you go about finding a vaaccum leak? Up by the intake manifold area? The brass diaphram looking things? No o2 sensor replacement and things worked because it was related to a vaccum line leak? The actual line itself? Seperate question here. When people say things happened on this site did they do the work or am I barking up the wrong tree asking for advice? I am thinking about paying someone to find this leak of vaccum because I know nothing about that. How much could it be to find a vaccum leak?

So yeah, I see that everyone has tagged along on this thread so I thought I would do the same. I have a 90 loyale fivespeeed machine (push button four) I have the weirdest problem...(1)My car will not start. There is plenty of juice in the battery and the starter is moving the engine but it will not turn over. However the car can be started by popping the clutch. (2)All my warning light are "on" on my dash (check engine , brake , light out..) They go off sometimes when I am on the freeway for a while. (3) This is the big one and I am trying to describe it right: My car will start to run really rough after a little bit of driving sometimes and then it seems like there is no balls behind it. I mean the car will eventually not hold an idle and then it won;t even be able to be push started. I heard O2 sensor, EGR solenoid, IAC, and TPS (replace/adjust) I am wondering if this is the same problem as being described in this thread. Or if it is a related problem.....:banana::banana: Thanks for reading, Peace Is there a fix for this problem that I did not mention....? I am gonna try and hammer through a little bit of this by Friday.

uh.... there is a switch on the top of the steering column. yeah yah:headbang:

i have the same problem with my 90 wagon....no rear running lights....wtf? if you have fixed let me know what you did otherwise any more advice?

i figured it out. it is like the 4th from the right on the top row. so yes when youre sterio shorts out and your car won't start it is because you blew a blue 15 cent piece.....lol:banana:

I need to know where the horn fuse is located it is rumored that a short in the radio area can short the horn fuse which is the ECU fuse? If that is correct then where is it, the cover to my fuses under the dash is gone and i don't think that there is one under the hood? is there? If you tell me where, will you say the numbered location that the fuse is supposed to be at. Thanks i am new to this site and it rocks.....so awesome thanks to anyone who replies.

my 90 subaru did the same thing, actually while running. the yellow wire in my dash was loose and grounded out? what do I do the same thing? where is the horn fuse?