archemitis

im looking at two ea82 heads, one left and one right. they look like they could go on either side, except for the egr. they seem to be the same casting.

post how much of a pain it is to get the xt seats in there, but 100bux is fair

i am rebuilding an ea82 from junkyard engine parts. at first i was just going to reseal everything and leave the parts the way they were. but now i am regrinding the valves, and im wondering if i should worry about going into the lower end. i've never had a piston out of a subaru, and if i can get away with it i dont want to. should i rering this motor that had 140k on it when a headgasket blew, and was then driven several miles after?

so i was about to start drilling holes into a motorcycle hub, to chuck my flywheel into the lathe, when two of the old time mechanics here tells me its a stupid idea. they say the flywheel is balanced with the crank and all that. but the thing is, i have swapped flywheels between subaru motors all the time, without balancing, with great results. should i respect my elders ideas, and leave the flywheel stock, or turn that b!ch till she wheighs 10lbs?

skip did you build a bracket to chuck that into your lathe, or did you just hack off a crank?

i took one to a shop, and asked the guy to just stick an external regulator on and he said it would cost me about 80bucks, so i should just buy a new alternator, but whenever i go on a trip, i bring a spare one, cuz they always go to hell way too fast. and i dont even have any accessories, like ac. once they are cracked open, its not fun to get them back together, but when you have more time than money, it could pay off.

the 85s they are talking about are ea82s. there were never na ea81s with mpfi. mpfi na only gomes on ea82s

i sealed up the disty with silicone, and ran a vacuum line from the vent in the top of the cap, to the inside of the cab. also, puting a switch on the electric fan, and ditching the clutch fan will help keep water from being thrown around so much.

well, a haltech looks like an easy alternative, but thats 700bucks.

yes i agree. na ea82 mpfi xts are pleantyfull if its mpfi it says multi point fuel injection and has two aluminum runner s on each side, instead of just one tube. if its spfi it has a tube, and yours could even be a leftover carb, which has a wierd almost oval shaped aircleaner on top.

yes and yes... easiest swap in history.. you can use the ea82 carband manifold, or the ea81 just go for it.

oh man... i have bought and sold subarus to the wierdest people in the world. the guy i got my brat from had bible quotes spray paited inside and out of the house.

i am attempting to figure out the best way to put an mpfi motor/computer in my hatch. this is confusing the hell out of me. i have never done an efi swap, but i understand what all the sensors are for and all that. should i just stick the complete harness in and leave the guage/ac/heater/lighting/ all that stuff unhooked? or would swapping in the xt guages and everything be easier? should i ditch most of the harness, and just isolate the motor stuff? ug, big projects are fun, but i need a good plan.

but you have stuff, that doesnt matter to horsepower, like light flywheel and a lsd. its all about the quarter mile times to me, because it shows power to weight, and tells you how fast you realy are. sorry bout the flame, or whatever, hook that tach up and head to the track.

would it be better to have a hatch driveshaft lingthened, or a ea82 wagon driveshaft shortened?

sorry bout the un intelligent comment, but runing with no tach with a turbo project car is not very intelligent in the first place. im just saying who cares about bragging about numbers you think you are achieveing, it will be fast, no doubt.

i use a crowbar on the alternator, and get the belts as tight as i can. no more squeaking.

subarus are cheap, drive it into the ground or find another solid one. you cant bee TOO sentimental with sometning like this

what drive shaft do i use? is this one that requires a custom one? ea81 and ea82 dr trannys are geared the same right? thanks

who cares what hp you have, thats fast and furious bull sh!t. its all about quarter mile times. 180... i doubt it. go to the track then run some numbers.

that kerosine trick is for crackheads, your lower end is scored worse than a hippie on acid! but at least it is quiet.

webers arent all they are cracked up to be, a good hitachi will never let you down.

put some new gaskets on and use a torque wrench. it will solve your problem

my favorite thing to do is pull subaru motors:banana: i would rather go at it from the top than the bottom. you dont have to hoist it out, just undo the bellhousing bolts, take out radiator, slide motor forward and go at it. or you can do it without taking the tranny all the way out, you can leave the cvs hooked up and just slide the tranny back, either way its not worth that much money to have someone else do it. and you can use a stick or screwdriver with duct tape wrapped around it for an alignment tool

put your fan on a toggle switch and run it hot at the test station,(halfway between normal and hot) heat makes all the difference. a brand new motor will fail if its tested when its cold. more fuel will burn, and the cat works alot better.