crazyhorse001

Since trading for out '82 BRAT, we've changed front axles, air filter, and adjusted the clutch. It still needs a few small things mechanically, but runs, and drives great. Subafreak, how hard was it to fit the XT6 seats? I have a pair kicking around, id like to put in ours

Since trading for out '82 BRAT, we've changed front axles, air filter, and adjusted the clutch. It still needs a few small things mechanically, but runs, and drives great. Subafreak, how hard was it to fit the XT6 seats? I have a pair kicking around, id like to put in ours

I may get the years wrong, but im pretty sure legacy, impreza, forrester struts will interchange across the board from '89-'04. Also throw XT6 struts into that mix, just cuz air suspension rocks (when it works) lol *edit* If you use struts from another vehicle, its best to use them as a full set. ESPECIALLY Forrester struts as they are taller. (poor boy's lift kit)

Can the dealer cut keys from the vin on an 82 brat, or will i need to get the code from the lock cylinder?

Thanks for the tips. These will help us keep our newly acquired Brat healthy, and happy

We recently traded a high mileage 95 impreza for this relatively low mile 82 Brat

Not all of it drew, but a good portion of it so far. The floor of that car was so bad that when i jacked it up by the rear diff, the doors jammed shut. Ive been parting it out slowly. Most of the parts have gone into my silver 89

Here are my 2 Alcyones. My 89 XT6, and 96 SVX

But what if i want it to multiply, and get all evil n ugly? Lmao

I havent been on in awhile, but i have kept the subaru bug, with a brief detour into a jeep (very bad idea lol) I've recently aquired an 82 ea, 4spd, d/r. I'm wondering if there are any special needs for these lil guys.

Thanks for that writeup on the front main seal. Good info, I apprecieate it. What I'm looking for is the seal between the trans, and front diff. Thats the one thats letting ATF into my diff.

So, the 4eat in my recently totalled lego was leaking atf into the front diff housing. I REALLY want to use the 4.44 gears in my SVX, but I need to fix this seal first. Does anyone know of a writeup, or how-to on replacing this seal?

Since you have a few months to source parts, you might want to source a 4.44 phaseI tranny. Some outbacks, and ALL LSI Legos had the 4.44. I'm sure there are more donors though. Short of that, you may need to source an OBDII harness for your EG33. Those are available in '95-up SVX's. I agree that most EG33 swaps are manuals. That said, when the 4eat dies in an SVX, any phaseI can bolt in, and talk to the stock TCU. I'm not 100% if the phaseII will be compatible with the OBDI EG33. The phaseI with an SVX TCU is your best bet, for simplicity's sake. Best of luck with EG33 goodness in your outback.

Back in the day we used a brand called "Wink". These were a multi element mirror, giving a panorama witout distortion. LINKY Even the good'ol boys in NASCRAP used them.

Nope no nukes, just the Oak Ridge Uranium enrichment plant to the west, in Knoxville (sorta) Holston Defense Army Ammunition plant, and storage bunker in Bristol (sorta). Lest I forget Nuclear Fuel Services just down the road, where they make the fuel rods for submarines! Something tells me I'll do a good impression of a burnt matchstick

So, you're saying if you followed it home, it'd follow you home?

I can has EMP proof car:clap: My '74 Pinto will be putt putting along after the Ruskies drop the big one on us The only solid state electronics on it are the alternator diodes, and the stereo. Everything else is points, and relays.

Here he is in living color, Rocky jr. A Tamiya 1/24 kit modded to XT6 specs I hope Connie doesn't mind my sharing him with you all.

It hasn't been re-released, yet. There are rumours though, now that the AMT/MPC brands have new owners.

Can't you just pull the "splash pan" under the bumper?

This is a model built by Bob Downie, a professional builder. Odds are if you've looked at the models at Wal*Mart, you've seen his work on the boxes. On to the model itself. It's the rare AMT 1gen Brat, mixed up with Revell, and Fujimi WRX kits. Now, who's gonna do this in full scale!?!

Nah, wiring is just as simple as plumbing. If the pipe is broken, there's no flow. You just gotta find the broken pipe & patch it

Did you pull the harness tight anywhere, or maybe nudge a curb to stretch it? What I'm getting at is, an internal break in a wire. If you're using a powered test light, check through your harness for continuity, by poking the sharp lead thru the insulation. If it's unpowered click on the switch, then test the length of the harness for power.

Not like we really need more Mazda influence, but it looks a lot like the new MPV's. Geez FHI get a styling dept. and quit borrowing Mazda's!

Can you use the outboard buckle for that side? That will move the buckle off the seat itself IE: if the belt comes from the pass-to-driver, can you latch the center plate into the driver latch?