crazyhorse001

Turbone did that on his rx hatch. Start with like 320 to smooth it then work down thru 400, 600,1000,1200,2000, then polish it with compound. Go easy on the coarse grits, as you can burn thru the lens pretty quick

A tie rod removal tool,or pickle fork, as they are sometimes called. Stick it between the tie rod end and the knucke and usa a bfh on it

Simple answer. If you have the clutch out, and its revving. The clutch is slipping. Wether its the clutch, or the master/slave cylinders (hydraulic) or cable. Thats what you need to determine.

Jack all 4 wheels off the ground. Start it, put it in gear. All 4 will turn. Get in some grass and punch it.

If you hit the key, and have to hold it before the starter engages, then its normal for an old subie. Somehow as they age they dont get enough power down to the solenoid. First thing to check though is the wiring on the back of your ignition switch. There is a screw that holds it on. It may be loose. If its tight you need to put a starter relay in to get full power to the starter. Tomorrow i'll post pics and details how i did mine.

The 09 has the transponder key immobilizer. That HAS to stay in the circuit or it will never start. A lot of people have avoided 2005+ swaps for that reason. Not that it cant be done, it just adds a degree of difficulty. I think miles fox, or numbchux may have better info than i do tho. Edit: I misread. Into an 05+ should be doable. Possibly plug and play if past practice is any indication. Swap motor, and ecu together. But get both wiring schematics, and compare to be certain.

Short answer, not much. Yep the lsd will bolt up, but you'd need to swap in your ring, and pinion first. Not hard to do, but fussy to get right. Electrically, the relays, and fuses are the same. You MIGHT be able to swap the seats in, but theyre HEAVY. Other than the diff nothing i can think of will swap

For sure let us know how that works. I know the old gen guys would love to be able to do just this!

Thanks for the education fairtax I like being proven wrong, i learn stuff that way. Chris, good luck i'm gonna let the guys who know help from here #thumbsup!

If its not binding with the fuse in i read wrong lol Leave it out while you do the flushes. I've heard it can just unstick immediately, and sometimes it can take a little time. On the flip side, it may not fix it at all. In that case you can pull the clutch and rebuild it fairly simply without pulling the trans.

Dont they make a diy hydrocarbon test for the head gasket leaks we get?

Yep, an injector is a ball, spring magnet. If the fuel goes to varnish, the ball sticks. You hear it come on, but the ball doesnt move. That doesnt explain an oil fouled plug tho. Like mikaleda asked, still oil fouling?

Do tight figure eights in a parking lot. You'll feel the bind, and you'll know when its gone.

Not doubting your word fairtax (awesome screen name btw ) How did the engine get enough air to run away like that? The iac cant supply that much air, can it? I can somewhat see the major vacuum leak, but the ecu shouldnt fuel if it sees idle conditions. In either case it should lean out well before 7k rpm. There should only be enough fuel to support 4.5-5k rpm before it leans out so much it cant burn anymore. [baby Sinclair] I dont get it [/baby Sinclair] lol Pardon my trying to learn in your thread Chris.

A major vacuum leak would lean the car out causing a high, rough idle A dead tps would still idle normal, but stumble on acceleration I would think a dead computer wouldnt allow the car to start. It wouldnt get fuel or spark at all. Id be looking at the throttle cable, and linkage. Going to 7000rpm says its hitting the rev limiter. This screams hung throttle to me. The engine cant rev like that with the throttle closed. It cant get the air any other way.

Build a catback. Put a good glasspack right behind the cat, then 2.5" pipe to a decent mid price muffler. A 2.5" outlet behind that will give that deep bass rumble without breaking the bank. The glasspack will resonate right under the seats giving the noise you're looking for. The muffler will keep your neighbors from hating you lol. I had a 95 imp ej18, that had a hollow cat. It sounded mean without being annoying. I dunno if you have emissions to pass, so i cant reccommend that.

That looks like a good product. You can go to your local autobody supply shop, and they'll fix you up a spray bomb in any color of the rainbow. Clean the part spotless with denatured alcohol, thats when you use the promoter. Then prime it with *shock* walmart brand primer. Then paint it with the laquer from the paint store. Then use walmart semigloss clear to keep it from being TOO shiny. The walmart primer, and clear wont react with most paints.

Those idlers are siezed/siezing. I reccommend taking the lower km ones from the parts car. Idlers should spin freeish, and quiet. If you hear it, replace it. If you're handy, and have a press or a vise, you can replace the idler bearings on the cheap. Gently hammer or press the old ones out, and new ones in. Just make sure they go in STRAIGHT.

I would also add that you should check to see that the fan(s) are running. Start the car, turn on the a/c at least 1 fan should run. Let it idle, the other should start when the temp gets around half guage.

Just a heads up. Trans fluid should NOT come out of the 4eat front diff. If trans fluid (red in color) came out, you have an internal seal bad. If gear oil (black) came out you're in good shape

The rule of thumb on a trans oil change is drain/fill 3x with some driving in between. Then add whatever magic elixr you want to try. Its been found that the flush has cleared up the torque bind you're suffering in a lot of cases. Subaru awd in a nutshell... Duty c solenoid controls awd. Power on, center clutch unlocked. Power off locked. Speed sensors control how often the clutch cycles. The clutch itself is a pack of discs, and plates just like the ones in the trans. My 2cents. Flush the trans 3x and put the fwd fuse in. This will let the clutch unstick if its gonna. If it still shudders, add the friction modifier. Then leave the fuse in till the shudder stops.

The only REQUIRED new parts for an ea82 timing belt change are... 1. Timing belts 2. Idler pullies (these can be skipped, but pose a risk if they're originals) The water pump can be done separately, as can anything else. Any parts charged beyond this are unnecessary. As for time, an experienced subaru tech should be able to do the job in 2 hrs or less barring any broken, or stripped bolts. Heres hoping you can get it done reasonably. I can totally understand not being able to do what you know is a simple job. It's fruatrating

So i picked up this lil number yesterday. Im diggin the N/A EA82 POWAH! But I'm sure I'll dig the 32+mpg more lol

Simple reply, thanks!

So i had this thought. Dangerous for me, i know. Can i convert the fwd trans to an awd using the good transfer clutch, duty c, and tail housing from the original trans?