subaruplatt

I've been meaning to chime on about the new impreza, so here goes. I have some photos of a silver version which are taken from a slightly elevated angle. It's amazing how the "flame edge" design first premiered by BMW has swept the auto world. This design features similar abrupt transitions to it's control surfaces. The rear end looks like it was derived by morphing a taurus wagon and a porche 928. I like the clues i get from the porche 928 and not so much those from the taurus. It seems the station wagon concept has gotten lost in that of a hatch back. One might never see this as before, say in the same space an Audi A4 wagon. Then there is that weird hour glass rear pillar haven't others tried and failed with that look already? I like how the side windows taken altogether resemble a giant eye. I have been thinking that maybe someone will find a way to retrofit the ESP to the 06-07 is it just and add on to the existing system? that would be nice. Wondering about the new rear suspension. I realize that the new model has a more spacious rear but does the rear suspension have the same travel that it used to or is this just a compromise? All in all I think I like some aspects of the new model. It would have been nice if it had not replaced the wagon however. It seems that subaru customers who want that will now have to shell out the extra bucks for the legacy wagon for this is now a car.

So if you replace the fuel filter and it gets better but not perfect then you know maybe your heading into a fuel supply issue. You would be surprised how faulty idle stabilization will mimic most of these symptoms. I used to run gas line antifreeze through the pcv draft,even the maf. to cure those clogged from oil burning recirculating blues.

Yea but tire and wheel combo is too expensive right now. So I might just pursue the tray option.

Could one of you fine fellows kindly refer me to the link so I can find this for myself? Thanks

Hi! I had to replace mine recently on a 06 impreza wagon. I was told that it was partially missing by the dealer. The year before it was driven in some heavy snow. Anyhow I was told that some people leave it off, but I replaced it. It covers the front 1/4 -1/3 of the underside of the engine and is held in place by plastic rivets. Cost me $120 CAN at the dealer and because it was under warranty no charge for labor. I think it serves to act as a shroud and there by serves to keep air from bypassing the radiator when your idling or stuck in traffic. I assume that it is sacrificial if you get to close to your under side it lets you know. It might make the under side more aerodynamic I think that the car blew around less. Finally it probably keeps the salt and dirt out which is especially prevalent in the winter.

I had this problem on my last car, a VW GTI VR6. THousands of dollar of expensive break jobs later one mechanic discovered a bent spindle. So effectively the rotors were eventually with time and or heat conforming to the warp in the spindle. Who knows if that's your problem but it could be worth a shot.

Yea and that was a four cylinder. I thought the only engine was going to be a 6?

If I can confirm that a full size spare does in fact fit I might consider putting a new rim and a reasonable all season equivalent in there.

Was at the dealer the other day with the dog. The service guy said that eventually that carpeted panel in the back will cavitate under the weight of the dog 54 lbs. He suggested filling up the empty space with blankets or somthing to prop it up from the inside. I'm thinking I would like to place a big piece of carpeted 3/8 plywood. on top cut to fit. I want a good strong lightweight and easy to remove solution. Anybody come across a good solution commercial or home made ?

The 06 impreza wagon I got first started making rubbing noises late this winter. I noticed one of the flaps was loose (and rubbing ) so I reinstalled the plastic rivet. Later I had the dealer check the underside and they reported back that the splash guard was also damaged and partially missing. I eventually replaced it. THe underside looked beautiful without it. Before they got the $120 CAN part I drove around for two or three weeks with it off. With it the car is quieter, can't hear the engine as much and less wind blown at speed. I also noticed that the engine might be running hotter (probably the designed temp) because I can hear a normal level of contraction now when it cools. I can only guess what caused this as we are not the first owners.They drove it a full winter in Quebec. Now it's right as rain!

Ok I finally realized how simple it would be to install one of the spare fuses found in he fuse box cover into the front wheel drive contacts to get fwd. My question is does it mater if it's a 5, 10, or 20 amp fuse? The manual only says install a spare fuse.

Noticed that the 32 psi I measured in the morning last week at +5c changed to 27 psi today at -3c. A change in the ambient temperature meant 41 to 26.6 fahrenheit meant a cold tire temperature drop of 5 psi, in the back tires. Tank was full both times. Rightly there aught to be a scale with tire pressures for different seasonal ambient temperature highs and lows. One aught to build such a map into the cars computer memory with input from the temp gauge and the vehicle might be able to suggest a real time tire pressure that would produce a median effect. Am I going crazy or could this be an idea for an invention.

Yea 33/30 seems too soft. I am currently running them at 34/32 and the car rolls nicer. I like to over fill them at night and then let the air off in the morning to adjust pressure , while the car the temp is at it's seasonal coldest. Also out of direct sunlight sun so one side isn't hotter than the other. Will probably add a few pounds more later in the summer. I have found that a tire doesn't really usually gain more than 4 psi with heat and speed (usually less).Going to try 35.5/33 for going camping, for clearance.

The most sensible rule I ever heard and I can confirm it with anecdotal evidence,is, Never switch to another brand of synthetic back to back as sometimes the differing additive packages will react. So always run dino oil in between as synthetic oils and dino oils are for the most part compatible, I went from syntec to mobil and I developed a stuck lifter (VW( tick tick.......) Fixed it with two doses of a bardohl oil additive that appeared to be graphite and kerosene in nature. And I finally settled on amsol as my synthetic of choice. Still on the fence if I will start the new Subaru on it or not. It has about 8000 miles on it now so pretty soon I Know it would be safe. Kind like the way it warms up so quickly in the winter, synthetic might make it take for ever.

I noticed that when you drive the auto around the city in 3rd you get much better response. It's is just that the auto is always trying to sneak in 4rth when the city speeds just don't justify it.

Wow that's an impressive piece of kit, saw the pdf. Is something this nice available for the 2006 Impreza? Is a thermostat internal? Can you turn it off in the winter? Of course I am asking this question without doing a real search, BUT. I'm sure the knowledge would be appreciated by all!

The torque converter until it's warm, will not lockup. It's really best to drive it like an old lady for the first few minutes warming up. So that's not really a problem it is just the way subarus are, always protecting that $$$ transmission. Easy when you warm it up! "brakes dragging in really tight turns..." Is it the rear end dragging you? Can you tell?By all means check out the torque bind issues. If It's brakes especially repeated brake issues check out bent spindles maybe it was curbed? I had the weirdest problem with brakes on my old car and it turned out the spindles were the culprit. The brake rotors where literally conforming to the bent spindle and eventually warping. this is after a curbing mind you.

They only need to put maximum loads not minimum.

A sedan runs 60:40 The wagon runs 58:42 I spent a night or two googling and read lots of posts. Really not an important spec, it's just that subaru doesn't use it. In the past winter we have become new subaru owners. This car makes potholes seem shallower and winter driving into a casual occurrence, this with a relatively stiff suspension, and is the second least expensive of the Subarus. I'm consistently surprised that more people don't have one. Thanks

Really doesn't any one know the answer?

Hey Guys. Just wondering what the front to back weight distribution of an 06 2.5i auto Impreza Wagon? I can't seem to find that exact figure any where. Maybe I might have to drive the front and back wheels over a scale. Has any one done that? Good to start a thread where all the different models could be covered.

Hello, 06 impreza wagon Last car VW A3 gti vr6, now Subaru 2.5i big 4 boxer 4eat auto 60/40 awd etc... .Subarus have amazing firmness, practical ground clearance, and a low center of gravity oh and I forgot, amazing wheel travel. Just getting the Ski rack on it and I realized that it might be wise to cut up the factory rail striping and insert pieces at the edges so the cross bars don't whistle. Shouldn't My Ski Rack attachments have come with 4 filler sections.? Can I buy just the strip or do I have to cut up the OEM one?