subaruplatt

Be careful or you might be tending towards over-inflation. I wouldn't go any closer than 4 lbs from the maximum to allow for highway/hot weather expansion.

Did a 7.5 liters per 100 km or 31.4 mpg U.S run a week ago. Highway cruise at 119 kph or 74 mph. Test run of 152 Km used 11.4 liters. Cold tire pressure 34 lbs back 37 lbs front. 2/3 of the time with AC on full. 5/30 mobil synthetic, which I think is helping. Ambient temp ranged between 21˚ and 26˚ C. Would be neat if the torque converter could glide on demand a little better. Surely Subaru could make a remap of the auto software expressly for this with no engine breaking. Would feel like a ford custom probably:lol: Then again I love engine breaking! Still is the only car I know of that lets me shift the auto with cruise control on! Automatic hill down shifting cruise control would be a plus and so easy to add. But then again I am probably there to do something! Lately I'm switching to synthetic oil and increasing factory tire pressures within reasonable limits, and employing better cruising habits. Greater efficiency also would be seen if tire pressures could be regularly above 40 psi. But in some instances wheel hop would be prohibitive. Nitrogen shocks would better deal with the even harder tires. By my logic better weight balance would also be a factor limiting wheel hop and could indirectly contribute to better fuel economy.

Did a 7.5 liters per 100 km or 31.4 mpg U.S today. Highway cruise at 119 kph or 74 mph. Test run of 152 Km used 11.4 liters. Cold tire pressure 34 lbs back 37 lbs front. 2/3 of the time with AC on full. 5/30 mobil synthetic, which I think is helping. Ambient temp ranged between 21˚ and 26˚ C.

Will definitely anti up for synthetic on the front and rear difs, when the time comes. Would love to know, I imagine the auto-trans fluid is already at least part synthetic as stock. What synth works better in a stock auto? I would bet that with a thermostatic regulated oil cooler system you could make all the difference in extreme service rating and let you use 0-30. Especially if you broke the engine in properly and with that goal from the beginning. Then again if price were no object we would all turbo the hell out of it and then run 15/50 in a heat sealed engine.

I used to let some gasline antifreeze get sucked into the PCV system on my old VW. With a puff of smoke out from the tail pipe all isv problems got solved. This was a very cheap fix at 99¢ each for a couple of little bottles. And this problem was masquerading as electrical as the furry crud would tend to swell on wet days.

Just thought I might do an update now I had time to put 1000KM. On it with the new oil. I haven't yet done a serious mpg or litre per 100 KM test. but I am immediately struck by the almost whisper like smoothness I am experiencing. Tire noise is indistinguishable from that of the engine. Nothing short of a minor transformation. Having looked around the internet it is reasonable to expect at least a 4% improvement in efficiency. Anybody use 0W-30 ? Mobil seems to be claiming that you could be using it instead of 5w-30 for an additional 2%. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-30.aspx Any thoughts on this?

Exactly! a Filter change and a top up could safely double your oil change interval with this grade of oil and there is even better oil, but regrettably factory says to do it at 6000 KM.

Yes kilometers and I did the conversion 72,000 km = 44,738.726 miles. For the 06 automatic impreza.

Just a pile of BS if they had said 48Km I might have said great that's proactive thinking. 24Km is pure bare faced lying. Check your facts!

The black part on the piston below the rings is a synthetic coating. Not sure what year subaru started doing it, but my o6 has it. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907570 Piston Coatings Dry film lubricants, also known as solid film lubricants, provide a lubricating film that reduces friction, inhibits galling and seizing, reduces piston scuffing, extends cylinder bore life, and in some instances can aid in dispersing heat. One of the obvious reasons for using a lubricating coating is to reduce friction, which improves wear, extends part life, and frees up power normally lost due to friction. A second major benefit is a reduction in part temperature. As well, no machining is 100% perfect, so the coating will wear and make up for very slight differences decreasing blow by. Most dry film lubricants are Molybdenum Disulfide based. Why not Teflon? PTFE, also known as Teflon, is listed as having the lowest coefficient of friction (COE). However, under high speed and load, the COE of PTFE degrades while that of MOS2 (Molybdenum Disulfide) improves, until it is significantly better than PTFE. Moly also attracts oil, keeping an adequate film on the part unlike PTFE, which sheds oil. Dry film lubricants are primarily applied to piston skirts.

Well I finally took the plunge. At 31.5 Km I went mobil 5-30 in the impreza. On a related note I found out that Jiffy lube will Lie to you about your service intervals. They suggested that I needed to have a complete differential and transmission fluid exchange at 24 Km. I new it was 72 Km but called subaru. yep 72Km for the Auto and 48Km for the manual. The dealer was at least 10% cheaper. Hopes and dreams for this oil, who knows? Not sure about the synthetic coated pistons, then again it's what my Subie dealer uses. Really have had positive experiences in the past with synthetic oils. I guess my my jumping point was when I saw just how quickly the subaru broke down plain old oil last winter.

Looks good. But adds more fuel to my idea that subaru "changed" ahem the impreza so they could ultimately change the legacy into what the impreza used to be.

I feel your pain. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80828

Yokohama has sporty all-seasons. Look at the entry level pure sport range. They don't quite last as long as your regular stock all-season hockey pucks, but drive much better. New silica compounds are good on ice! http://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?additionalComments=y&commentStatus=P&tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+S.4.&tirePageLocQty= Combine that with almost any snow tires on plain steel rims for when it is cold. Your golden! Remember steel will slide on concrete while aluminum will bind, ( ripping out your suspension ) . Just the simple act of changing your rims in the winter to steel will ultimately save you money when you are much more likely to curb your vehicle. Also snow tires cost no more money as they can last as long as your sumer tires if you get them off at the right time in the spring. I found this weird eastern european brand of snows called Sava Eskimo. I give them an extremely positive review. Lots going for them and they cost half the price of the supposed premium.

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Both have cloth seats the better one has the integrated headrest,and a better grade of cloth. The LE also has automatic temp, ipod jack Auto dimming, maybe homelink. Better Jazzed up stereo oh and fog lights and I forgot 7 spoke wheels, are included. Both have identical power trains bodies etc. In canada at the time. the upgrade cost $1500 list retail. Very nice car! I have the base level 06 wagon Auto. These are decent cars, top in their class! I

I think one should have both summer and winter tires. But economize on both. Pretty good snow tires on metal rims. I vote Sava Eskimo. These tires are great on the highway! Base line Michelin sport "pilot" tires or equivalent for summer. I had a nice pair of Yokohama tires on my last car for summer. Entry level sport is the way to go. The secret is to look in that category then choose the best one for you. This is your best chance for decent tread wear but still having some fun on real hot days when traction is optimal.

. Dolby Digital Rice™

Just get rid of the sudo Alpha Romeo bumper!

Yes the "Eskimos" are very good They are better than the stock Brigestones . I hate to take them off. Good load bearing so you don't have to constantly worry about pumping them up. Lowest base tire pressures and still not a lot of squish in the tires. Jaw dropping stopping abilities on dry roads (winter) Absolutely no tire noise. Excellent in deep snow, Minimal wear first winter.

I agree Better power sources like diesel. Maybe Haldex type AWD, ( scream! ) Please keep the four wheel drive and the extra strong frame. One thing most people don't realize is how much safer the subaru is in a crash. In my experience the subaru was the cheapest real car we could find. Try and make up that kind of strength with less. I have some swamp land to sell you in a town called EPA .

Quite good, anyone out there with the 2006-2007 impreza wagon?

The slant 6 engine was way too reliable to be profitable. It could outlast the car and still run perfectly smooth. Those ramblers were probably one of the last really grate american cars. Too bad they weren't pretentious enough to get any credit for what they were.