subaruplatt

I got mine in Toronto here! http://www.tiremag.ca/shop/showcaseproductdetail.htm?ID=-4326&Brand=-207&Type=3009

Got Sava Sava Eskimo S3 Almost exactly 2 years ago to the date. Time to do a follow up on the second winters drive on one of Goodyear's ghost brands from all places slovenia. Fantastic. Just returned from Elicotville in a snow storm. Fantastic. Drove home at 80-90 km/h on packed snow for hours. amazing! These tires while never being pushed by me for safety reasons have proven to be fantastic and are only limited by their low cost and other peoples perceptions. I can't imagine for a moment that we wont get another 2 or three good winters out of them. I can't help mentioning to others how silent on the the highway these things are and how unlike they are to a traditional snow tire. They are the real deal. I believe they are still cheap as well.

Sounds like you cured some kind of idle problem.

Most times I am really quite cautious. I really just love to cruse along. Just wish people would keep their distance and take a chill pill when the weather is bad. I try not to test the limits of adhesion without the utmost attention to what I'm doing, and better yet in a big safe empty parking lot. I'm still interested in how the all wheel drive can be pushed to maintain traction and directional stability.

Good point ! No AC but cars run faster with cooler temps but use more fuel too.

If your using the defrost aren't you using the AC as well?:-\ So defrost in these cars does = AC and may be another of the reasons. Thus their are 3 main reasons as far as I can see. Fuel density being the greatest.

I remember the 70's when they didn't put any gas line anti freeze into the gas for winter. Frozen fuel lines and buying little bottles of methyl hydrate to add to every tank. Then government discovered that a 10 % blend greatly improved inner city carbon monoxide levels. Now I think that you have to pay for premium gas if you want the same energy density in the winter. Also there is that old air density problem. I always thought an intake air warming system would be a great idea, but I guess most folks are more satisfied with the extra hp they're getting.

Went out again and drove my street, Now there is up to a foot of snow and some places in the drifts,more! Trying to experience winter driving early to increase my competence. Driving in powder, lets us lower powered cars, experience what must be the joys of drifting. I swear I never thought my plain old impreza wagon was so sporty. It is made for the winter. Still glad I didn't drive it to work and then have to thaw it out later to get home. Nice to be coming home by transit, then pulling out a nice fresh car from the garage to drive just for fun.

Got off way early today I was home alone by 2 in the hart of the snow storm. Took the dog and went out for some drifting circles and rearward donuts in the parking lot. I was making nice round circles about 3 car lengths. Drove up and down a hill to get there. Then did the entire route to high park dog hill and back unplowed On the way back the car became plastered with ice and snow and I had to drive with the defrost on full blast with full heat and full wipers.

Ok, was just doing my favorite what if scenario and imagining. My question is, If price were no object, like you just won the lottery , what if you could, would you do to a subaru? I'm not looking for Ridiculous Maybe under 100K. The cosworth based subaru engine blocks out there look pretty good. Their 500 HP 0-60 3.5 sec metal monsters seem to spring to mind n recent car shows. Names like Koni, bilstein, spherical upper strut bearings, things and names like that seem to spring to mind. Do they sell a complete car and or even turn Key engine solutions? Love this Forum

First thing I did at the beginning of the winter was lower the cold tire pressures when I put these back on. I normally run a conservative +10% cold tire psi in summer. Now it's 32/35.5 on these instead of my normal 33/36.5 for the summers. The weight looks very balanced. We will see how it handles the bumps. I may go a lb. lower There doesn't seem to be as much need for psi as the weight of the car gets born more on the side walls, because of a higher load index these tires have. Still at -10C cold tire psi is really pretty dense and one won't notice 1 psi missing. This would be way too hard if were allowed to expand to room temperature. These are excellent highway tires with amazing stopping powers. Worry more about getting rear ended! Also amazing slush tires. They absolutely make my car resound with expelled slush. They are considered almost as good as the nokian rsi on ice and snow and cost easily half the price. In-spite of a little squirminess easily adjusted for by increasing tire pressures they are genually amazing on the highway! I will try to evaluate deep snow and ice after this year .

I had this problem with a VW on the front wheels, and I can't help but mention it. After 2 or 3 break major jobs performed in a seemingly con-current manor. I discovered that the rotor attachment surface was warped. In this case it was the hub. That hub would have cost nothing to replace if it had only been done right away. In short don't always keep looking at the parts that keep failing but rather look at the ones that are closest and have never been replaced. Check the rear wheel hubs for concentricity. Do you use the subaru super low friction break pads?

300,000 miles that's like 482,803.2 Kilometers!

Yes the car is essentially a front wheel drive with a clutch attached rear wheel drive. The 4eat car is always going to have front wheel drive. The front wheels will get 100 % engine braking while the rears being loosely attached will get less.

Please someone show me an official source of information for this 90/10 thing. All I can find are private sites and people that really can't stand automatics. I used to be one of them.

First off on recent subaru 4eat models the computer maintains a friction coefficient necessary to send 60 percent forwards and 40 percent rearwards under normal condition. not 90/10 This is full time 4 wheel drive system pushing with 2/3's of the forward power rewards, not an on demand system. Secondly even with the factory tire pressure of 33/30 the front tires are still slightly more compressed. Therefore off the line the fronts will spin first as they will have more immediate torque. Then the computer will give 50/50 torque until all wheels travel at the same speed then it will back off to the 60/40 and try and maintain that. Then again how awd in the 4eat really works seems to be a mater of conjecture strung together by mostly hearsay. Subaru says this. Automatic transmission. Available on Impreza 2.5i models, the 4-speed Electronic Direct Control Automatic Transmission with SPORTSHIFT TM incorporates an advanced multi-plate transfer clutch centre differential for smooth and consistent acceleration, even under low traction conditions. Under normal circumstances, this active torque split system maintains a 60/40 front/rear split for more predictable handling and moves towards a 50/50 split when conditions warrant or under hard acceleration.

First off on recent subaru 4eat models the computer maintains a friction coefficient necessary to send 60 percent forwards and 40 percent rearwards under normal condition. not 90/10 This is full time 4 wheel drive system pushing with 2/3's of the forward power rewards, not an on demand system. Secondly even with the factory tire pressure of 33/30 the front tires are still slightly more compressed. Therefore off the line the fronts will spin first as they will have more immediate torque. Then the computer will give 50/50 torque until all wheels travel at the same speed then it will back off to the 60/40 and try and maintain that. Then again how awd in the 4eat really works seems to be a mater of conjecture strung together by mostly hearsay.

On the bottle it says ... G-8010 Revive Products Co. Oakiville, Canada L6L 6K1

Just passed the 3 year part of the warranty. Been noticing how the drivers front seat legs were looking actively rusty around the edges. Got some mercy service from my dealer even though I was a few weeks past 3 years. What they did was paint the drivers side front stays and they used anti seize copper paste on new bolts. What they didn't do was even look at the passenger side which was also rusting but not nearly as bad. Also they didn't even clean the carpet. So they effectively replaced newly painted steel onto visibly salt caked carpet. My next idea was to re-seat the chairs on a layer of copper paste . I thought I could make them do it for me but they talked me out of it.. I guess it could be messy. I have found some spray called Flexi- Film. This stuff is like a sirupy version of silicone spray. I have soaked the whole area down there and I believe that the carpet has soaked up the stuff too and will no longer attract salty water underneath. Also now all the metal down their has a nice coating of a clear buttery film that doesn't seem to be going away. Then I thought instead of regular silicone spray I might try flexi film on the window and door seals. You need to wipe it into the seals with a cloth soaked from the stuff. Otherwise it appears as a foamy light brown. I have to report excellent results. All the rubber on the car look and feel like new. This is amazing stuff!

Yes I have grown accustom to this place. Good to see it healthy again!

What a great idea would luv... to do it to the 06 impreza wagon, How about a setting that moves the wipers to a higher park automatically so the hot air vent could have a chance. Can the dealer do a retrofit ? hmmm..... Anyone that can mass market that below $400 -ish would do well. Great idea!!!

I had two rather exciting accidents last year. Both were of no fault of my own. You never know when some stupid free loading yuppie is going to make their own self centered maneuver. or when the hairy roid case next to you is going to want to drive aggressively or when granny is just plain gonna zone out. Two major accidents and zero alignments. These cars are the volvos o the east. They are also like snow tanks in the winter.

I have an 06 impreza wagon. I read lots of things about just how soft the paint is on a subaru. Paint chipping etc. My experience is entirely different which leads me to believe that this is a problem that no longer dogs subaru. I'm not really sure what models were affected but I can tell you, it wasn't mine. As far as I know there has never been a coat of wax on this car, but after a good wash the paint sparkles and it still beads water! And yet I was thinking there are a few dings and a few mars caused by parking lot trash. I wanted to polish the clear coat and do a wax. So the inevitable question given the superb chemistry of the existing paint and my desire not to disrupt that. What wax to use? Thanks.

Pity !

Just curious? Does it save gas to go into neutral when stopped at a red light or is it better to just ride the brake? I am assuming neutral is more efficient. Legality aside.