subaruplatt

I found this PC000044AA . From England! http://cgi.ebay.ca/PC000044AA-eq-ISO-Subaru-Impreza-Justy-Legacy-Outback-/320566958427?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET#ht_3221wt_913 I later realized it was the wrong part but could still be used because the right side or the two male connector to the female Subaru harness connector was all that was needed to connect up to the Parrot harness. I cut and taped the 3 common wires and discarded the left side ( male subaru to two female ISO etc). This is the message I received from england. I see from your photo that you have an RKi8400 - that is a car audio player but you have ordered a SOT lead for a handsfree kit you should have ordered one of our RADIO-SWOP leads instead - please advise your vehicle's model, age and type of stereo/nav you may be able to use half of that lead but it is really the wrong type of lead. Pretty sure this was the part I should have used http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PC2-44-4-Subaru-Forester-Impreza-Justy-Legacy-ISO-Lead_W0QQitemZ160393548868QQcategoryZ14932QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDLSL%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D320566958427%252B320566958427%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5916829066871524340 Honky dory It works!

I finally pulled the trigger on the parrot rki8400 $325.95 also H6300SS700 Tweeter Upgrade Kit $36.00 $36.00 H6300SS401 Speaker Upgrade $62.40 $62.40 H6300SS800 Powered Subwoofer/Amplifier 1 DIN $102.40 $102.40 Two things worry me. 1. Is the Subaru already prewired for the Sub woofer? 2. I like the idea of a no cut wiring harness adapter but I need one that can do both the powered Sub and the rest of the un powered speakers. Now that all my money is gone I wait for the mail.

I just did a 221 KM drive. Once again all is good! 1 litre took me 13 km s. That equals about 30.6 MPG for US. It is 36.7 imperial gallons per mile.

Just thought I might do a follow up. The newly reassembled engine is running beautifully and now has over 200KM running at various city speeds. The AVCS seems much smoother, before it would just kick in, in an on and off manner. Now it seems to operate progressively and is a transparent part of RPM. The engine is pulling stronger at 1500 rpm. So even though the transmission doesn't always downshift the car is bogging less. The only thing i notice is a very slight stumble on take off some times, but this isn't a problem goes away when warmed up. I read that if your valve clearances are on the tighter side that's what you get. The engine sounds like it loosens up after it is good and warmed up. There are zero leaks:banana: REMOVED BOTH CYLINDER HEADS,SENT TO MACHINE SHOP FOR TESTING FOUND BOTH EXHAUST SIDE GUIDES DROPPING.BURNT ONE EXHAUST VALVE ON THE RIGHT SIDE HEAD. SUBLET SHOP OVERHAULLED TRANSFERED ALL PARTS FROM THE OlD HEADS REPLACED NEW VALVE SEALS CAMSHAFT SEALS What does this all mean why it happened I will never know. ? Just hopefully it wont happen again.

Got the car back and the engine is running smoothly. Idle is low and the engine is quiet. I am going to attach a parts summary. These are the part numbers subaru canada chose for an 06 impreza wagon auto.

Here are two pictures of the work in progress. So far the left head is mostly completed. I got a recent model forester as a replacement.

Update. The dealer was told by Subaru Canada to replace both heads, so now they need to order and prep another one for the drivers side. I am going in to pick up a replacement vehicle this morning. I wunder why they have to replace both sides? Balance? Will I get the new metal gasket and heads from 2010? Are the heads/gaskets for the new model compatible?

Thanks GeneralDisorder ! Do you have a good illustration of the valve train so I may understand it better? I am also interested in learning how the simple v-teck works in these engines. Even though I am going a bit overboard in this situation the new belt and plugs will give me peace of mind. Thanks

It was confirmed that the valve seat was toasted and or loose. It also dropped the valve and that is why it didn't do damage to the valve train or the piston. Found out they are going to use a fresh factory head , but am dismayed that they are going to recycle polish or regrind all but one of the valves , and from what I can tell the rest of my valve train including the cam shaft. How kosher is this practice mixing old parts with new ? I am assured that valve guides and seals will all be new. Are the valve guides already pressed into the head when they get it? Do they have to use new bearings throughout or can they recycle them too? I am decided to get a new timing belt, plugs, and synthetic oil. I have also requested anti seize on the plugs. Keeping my fingers crossed. David

What about plugs would you change them?

No work done recently regular oil changes. No compression in cylinder 1 caused by some sort of stuck valve. Car won't be ready until thursday at the earliest. Service rep says that the head needs to be pressure tested looking for cracks. He said that it was not the timing belt and that the valve never came into contact with the piston. How is this possible? Could the valve have been working just not closing all the way? He asked me about my oil service intervals and I replied that It had been changed 5,500 Km ago which is what they do also at 6000 km. The synthetic oil was still very clean. I am going to pay to have them install a new timing belt for the rebuild ( they were just going to toss the old on back on ) and I am also considering spark plugs as well as an oil change. Is there anything else I should consider paying them to do?

Good news is if it's not the engine but bad news is they won't cover electrical under major mechanical. If that is the case I will have new plugs and wires as well as a new coil. So I will pay$$$ and still out the towing charge. I will find out tomorrow.

Coming back from brantford and lost a couple of cylinders or something on the highway. Wobbling and way down on power I exited the highway and stopped at a gas station which was luckily near by. I shut it down and then had it towed. ouch towing and taxi home cost me over $200 Seemed like it came from the passengers side. Could be head gasket or timing belt. Could be electrical or fuel injection or even computer? Didn't over heat and wasn't low on oil. Didn't leak water or oil. Did see check engine light. It happened very quickly not a progressive thing at all. I will see tomorrow. 06 Impreza Wagon Auto 56000 Km

Thanks for your replies. I will probably have Kromer in toronto do it. I will bring the parts . Also wondering about the various speaker upgrades available. http://subaruproparts.com/index.php?cPath=1_24_37_49 http://subaruproparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24_37_49&products_id=457 Tweeters, upgraded speakers and Sub woofer. How is this setup? Thanks again for great replies! I have confidence and I think I might do it.

bump for just one reply

Lately I have been considering installing Parrot RKi8400 in our 06 Impreza wagon. I have also considered the various subaru speaker upgrades. Is there anyone out there with experience with this? Will it fit? Are there custom bezels to make it fit, does anyone make them? Thanks

First thing pedal pulsation is the way the car tells you you are using ABS. Using ABS is not necessarily bad. What is not normal is to be using ABS unnecessarily. I remember when I finally got snow tires and now I only get ABS now when I stomp on it or am on sheer ice. There are some summer tires like Yokohama that have a compound that is pretty good in the winter. Sometimes summer tires are just too slick for cold conditions, and almost worn out tires are really bad in the rain. Also if a bump in the road is triggering traction issues you also might want to consider shocks.

Read this thread if you have the time. There are so many people here who have claimed to fix forward engagement problems with this stuff and multiple fluid changes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87708&highlight=transx Also remember that the subaru is designed not to allow torque converter lock up until sometime after the car is warmed up. Maybe you have a temp/sensor problem, is this possible?

Was rear ended in front of the ford motor plant. The baby blue buick just kept coming towards me and I was stuck in traffic. I let go of the brakes as she hit and slowed her down an extra 10 feet. My major concern was the dog in the back. which was OK! The car was slightly bent in a bit but not so much as the hatch wouldn't lock. No problem fixing it and with no Alignment Necessary. I had a car bounce off me on a similar situation with a 1980 Volvo GL.

I thought that the current "fix" model was single layer, nes pa?. For 06 impreza 2.5i N/A Specifically ? http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=17426

Is there a MLS head gasket available anywhere for the base 06 Naturally aspirated engines? All I can see are turbo gaskets.

Sometimes in turns the AWD hunts then digs in a little. It's like if I'm uncertain it will be uncertain too. Most time it's quite rational Now that I think of it could be a warming issue. Still a steering angle censor would be all that is needed. I don't think the 06 impreza has it?

The only thing I can think of that hasn't been mentioned already. Tire pressures. If the new tires you have a lesser load index than stock you need to over inflate them (slightly) . If the load index is greater than stock. Spec tire pressures or slightly lower 1 lb less will do. Maintain a ratio that is within spec ie 33/30 Do you have a digital gauge? I thought mine was pulling to the right but then I detected 1/2 pound plus in both tires on the drivers side, imagine that. Anyhow winter is not the time to over inflate your tires because the shocks don't dampen as well in low temperatures. Only over inflate if you have tires with a lower load index than stock ( in the winter ).

"Well, most of the cars I have owned have not had ABS, so I'm still not that familiar with it. I'm still surprised when I notice it kicking in and vibrating my brake pedal. I grew up in the days when you learned to slow down in advance of situations (the art of coasting up to a stoplight—and pissing off the guy behind you), and you pumped the brakes judiciously when you noticed a bit of a skid." With abs the harder you have to stop the harder you push the peddle there is no pumping or feathering. This doesn't abrogate common sense things like snow tires or speed reduction. ABS just means that when you go into a slide that you will come out straight. ABS has all but banished fish tailing. Also one goal of ABS is by allowing limited slip is to distribute breaking across a larger area. So with ABS you allow a little extra for a stop on sheer icy surfaces but will always stop straight. I had a summertime highway incident once with ABS. The car in front of me had slammed into a stopped car in front of him and I was about to become the 4th car in the Pile up. In this situation there was no way I could ever have stopped in time. What ABS did when I remembered to use it properly was give me the option to drive on the side road and and around him. Without ABS I could never have steered around. And yes I use snow tires in the winter and as a consequence never even see ABS. Also my 4 year old summer tires are useless now for rain in the summer .They would be doubly useless once the temperatures drop. New tires contain silicon and silica and they are light years beyond what we were used to previously. Even snow tires can be expected to ride nicely on the highway these days and finally they have become almost as good as summer tires.

Thanks for the info! In my quest to gain understanding I have stumbled upon and open source ECU Flashing software for Subaru s that also works with Macs! Does life get any better? http://www.openecu.org/index.php?title=EcuFlash I haven't the occasion to try it but it did look neat. Interesting to hear about Toyotas problems with their drive by wire Prius. A situation where ABS and regenerative braking were overriding actual braking (I guess). I heard on the news that it may turn out that the gas peddle issues they are having with their other cars are not mechanically caused but via the CPU! They have already a firmware fix for the prius but it has also been rumoured that there will be no such fix available for the gas pedal issue.