subaruplatt

Lying in bed last night I had an epiphany! I finally figured out what probably happened. I am assuming now that the technician might have mistakenly drained the transmission oil pan thinking it was the oil drain plug! I distinctly remember seeing red fluid on the tip of the stick the first time it was checked but then I remember that 5 to 10 minutes later the guy checked it again and again unable to read fluid on the dip stick. They were taking too long changing the oil, and seemed confused. There was a period of unexplained in activity where I assume they built their whole cover story, it evolved organically. I assume that at least one person knows the truth but I can only guess. Someone probably made up the story about the filter having a crushed gasket which caused the mysterious leak. Weird I even remember looking under the car and peaking at an idle tech who then looked sheepishly back at me. He was waiting for a solution and I was waiting to leave. They hummed and hawed but then decided that DEXIII fit the minimum criteria as a top up solution, which it did. I didn't dare drive without fluid reading on the dipstick. They pulled a generic filter out of somewhere ; I think they had it delivered. They made no reference to any transmission related service on the bill whatsoever, which I thought is also kinda fishy. So I had a drain and fill with dexIII drove 120 KM had another drain and fill with subaru HD. By my reckoning I now have aprox 3/4 subaru fluids. I'm getting another drain and fill with HD tomorrow and going to have them give it the once over for leaks.

I am beginning to suspect that all there ever was in my transmission was dextron III. I will never know for sure. The shifts are the smoothest I remember them ever being. In city driving I see RPMS floating in stages between 1250 and 1750:clap: Feels like one big gear most of the time instead of what it used to be like wich was as if the automatic was doing a really poor imitation of a manual . Anyhow I am relieved to know that dex3 can be used as a top up, and that I didn't really mess things up after all. Will drain and refill once again with HD fluids at next oil change. I will also be checking this level more often from now on!

After 95 you need the J type stuff.

Found the transmission fluid on sale at Wall Mart! it is labeled, Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/28-canada/11225-looking-castrol-transmax-j-aft-canada.html http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s_ImportMV.pdf

PS: The transmission is shifting beautifully and is running more transparently than ever. I feel that I'm on the right track now and I hope that by writing this post I am helping others.

Ok so here is where I am now. This morning I went promptly to Marino s to have trans fluid replaced. They didn't have the infuser or flushing machine and admitted that their normal service was to drain and fill. 89$ probably plus parts. I wanted to get it flushed so I bought 10 litres of subaru ATF hp, a filter and headed out to get a flush. This cost aprox 150$ Called jiffy lube on Dundas and Royal York. They refused to touch the car after I told them my story. Called Brantford Jiffy lube and was told that fluid was OK, I mean what were they supposed to say. I said to Toronto Jiffy lube not to worry that I had 10 litres of fluid a filter etc. They wouldn't budge and insisted that they might be implicated if there was a transmission failure further on. I realize now they didn't want type J fluids contaminating there normal systems. They referred me to AMMACO on StClair and Runnymede. I show up at AMMACO and they agree to exchange the fluid. They say they can do it manually but I might need a total of 13 litres to do a proper flush. Mechanic says it is better to do a drain and fill and that even with the infuser or flushing machine the fluid in the torque converter doesn't get exchanged and the new fluid merely bypasses it. Essentially new fluid ends up getting exchanged. Downtown Subaru service tech confirms this notion about about old fluid remaining in the torque converter, even when flushed. They were able add about 4.5 litres after the drain and put on a subaru filter for wich they charged me 125$. Remember I brought the fluid and filter myself and had I known I would have done a service at Subaru for less. So I was able to replace 1/2 of the 9.3 - 9.6 litres a dry fill would take. I plan on doing a drain and fill again at my next oil change. I have 5.5 litres left. Called the guy in Brantford ( jiffy Lube ) and got a part number of the ATF fluid that got added. QUAKER STATE MULTI-VEHICLE ATF part# 160026 http://www.hollonoil.com/InventoryProductSheets/QuakerState/QSMVATF.pdf He disputed that the flushing would not flush the torque converter notion. Sorry for this long and tedious thread, it's almost noon I need a drink:drunk:

Not sure the guy there new the difference between subaru autos and manuals. I asked him if the automatic transmission and the tail 5 disc awd clutch pack share the same fluid and he didn't know. Then he said the tail had a discrete oil. I think he was wrong, probably why transmission fluid is J rated as it has to do double duty as a trans fluid while also resisting the intence sheering from the AWD clutch pack.

Had the oil and filter changed by Jiffy Lube today. They were unable to read a transmission level and they were unable to source the Recommended fluid. 06 automatic impreza wagon. Subaru ATF Type-HP IDEMITSU ATF HP Castrol Transmax J Pennzoil ATF J Any how they topped it up with QUAKER STATE MULTI-VEHICLE ATF part# 160026 http://www.hollonoil.com/InventoryPr...te/QSMVATF.pdf and changed the filter (generic) . Almost 4 litres added but they massively overfilled it. This got me home tonight from Brantford to Toronto. The guys think that the filter had a crushed seal, which developed into a slow leak. The guy claimed that it wouldn't be a leak one could see on the floor of the garage as the filter was actually above where the oil sits at rest or wouldn't actually leak until one was under way on the road. The transmission worked fine before and after. If I could notice anything I might say I noticed more of an all wheel drive feel with a more noticeable rear wheel input ( but it is snowy and slippery out ). This winter I noticed some of my worst fuel economy ever. And I wrote it up to air density and more alcohol in the fuel, my right foot etc. But I wunder could this be a cause? Could low transmission fluid levels effect fuel economy? Going to get front mid and rear fluids changed at the dealer tomorrow. Will check trans levels regularly in the future.

When I had a similar experience lately it turned out to be a fallen valve and guide.

I noticed increased oil consumption one or two weeks before, in it was the only ever oil consumption I had seen. Later I had a failed valve and guide. SUBARU replaced both heads and repacked them with my old components. Apparently right and left side head are made on the same line and that there is only external machining that separates the two. So if there is a flaw in one there is likely a flaw in both. Flash forward several months and the car runs great! The only other thing I might have noticed as a predictor was that highway power seemed to float extremely gently. I now realize that if I had a stuck valve and it was burning and then released enough temperature to eject the valve guide this might have been exactly what happened to my car. My Big question is why was there a remarkable change in oil consumption many days before?

Not sure if centre frame pull is your ultimate cure or what but! Press new bearing into affected spindles and replace all impacted hubs. I know because I have curbed before. It is possible that on your strut that a little dremel persuasion on the bolt holes will cure the hit and get the wheel upright again. But the hub will still be bent! If the bearings are damaged they might shift and Pop. However if the hubs are warped your brakes won't last long at all! Remember to replace after everything the bearings and the hubs!

That's 96.56064 KM for those of us metric folks. Check and see if all these things were done along the way. http://www.subaru.ca/Content/7907/media/en-ca/download/MaintenaceGuide.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/current/Current6/03/PerMaintServ.pdf I would say that if in doubt, if you get it have the drive line oils changed and have all the fan belts done too, that's if they look old. Plain old pcv valve service never hurts. Also new pads and more importantly new brake fluid. My rear pads wore at an angle after 56000 miles but the front ones looked like they had a couple of years left in them. Your major service is at 105,000 miles it would seem.

I would swear mine shifts better after the new battery. Too lazy to top up the cells with water an recharge it so I forked out 100$ and put a new one in.

Last details !

Lucked into two new heads recently both sides, I put on a new belt and did the plugs at my own expense. After a toasted valve and loose valve guide it was decided to replace the head. Then I ended up getting both heads replaced but then repacked with the same components. ( warranty ) 6000 later km I am finally relaxed the engine at idle is quieter than the fan, on 1. New battery and it's shifting smoothly. I have a love hate relationship with the auto anyway. The car is sometimes too smooth. Anyhow things are perfect right now, even the rear diff is floating through corners. I guess my point is that soon your car will be a bit newer than it just was and will feel like new for just a while. PS it did break in and sounded smoother in about 3-5km just in time for the first oil change.

I finally found http://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autoleads-pc2444-subaru-legacy-vivio-tribeca-wiring-harness-adaptor-p-9245.html Autoleads PC2-44-4 - Subaru Legacy, Vivio, Tribeca Wiring Harness Adaptor. I think it's the right lead, although I haven't ordered it. I made do withe half of the PC000044AA http://cgi.ebay.ca/PC000044AA-eq-ISO...#ht_3221wt_913 but I was forced to switch the red and yellow around which was convenient on the Parrot harness that included with the stereo. Cut and tape the three common wires they are not used. Red wire must be 12 volts hot at all times and orange wire must be on and off 12 volts with key. This is at the Parrot din connector that enters the unit. Constant power protects the firm ware from being corrupted and if it doesn't shut down gracefully when you turn off key you know you have this problem.

Nokian WRG2 http://www.nokiantires.com/tyre?id=11899&group=1.01&name=Nokian+WRG2 My father got them as he is just too old to change and care for snow tires. Some winters it snows lots and others it just doesn't. I think it is wise to get these tires as they run quietly on dry pavement but are more ready than all season tires for winter. He is rotating them every second oil change, we will see how long they last.

Advanced Synthetic Fiber Media has 300 percent Greater Capacity. Is there a difference with premium ? Does WIX/OEM have a premium worth mentioning?

Anybody use these things? Looking to buy some and stock up. Bosch has them as a premium OEM for J253. Thanks.

For all you iPhone freaks out there who also love cars this one is for you. http://itunes.apple.com/app/bosch-light-em-up-dyno/id361276412?mt=8#

Did the iOS 4.1 upgrade today and am extremely pleased with the outcome. I had already done the 2.33 firmware upgrade on the RKi8400. Improved scrolling and folder navigation along with new bluetooth controls. Nice!

FINALLY! It is done. Firstly the Parrot is really 23 watts continuous with fifty watts peak and is well within the specs of my upgraded speakers. The centre console pieces were easily removed starting from the shifter bezel and working through the ash tray and finally onto the hvac/stereo bezel. The 2 DIN stereo looks a bit harder to do but the 1 din is really easy. I had to lose 2 screws in the process of mounting the factory side plates on the new head unit. I had to move the whole unit forward one set of holes so the front would clear the plastic catch bin below it. The plastic catch bin has two screws and two plastic pins. The pins had to be removed too. ( they did't align and would hold the mounting plates apart at an angle ). Then I realized after I had the whole unit installed that the front of the Parrot was never going allow the factory bezel to fit over top, it was two big for the space in the bezel. I had to involve a professional help 120$, as I don't even own a dremel tool. I had the bezel entrance widened on the top and both sides and am reasonably pleased with the outcome. The thing is amazing! well not true high fi, the mid fi sound is a HUGE improvement over what I had in the base model! I did the dual mic s behind the steering column on the stationary bit, because it was such an easy place to install them. This placement has good audio quality no need to thread the mike all the way to the visor. The Subaru Subwoofer sounds almost invisible I have the gain on it at about 3 o'clock and the whole system set to a custom eq but it also sounds fine flat. One note to watch out for it you remove the drivers seat. The bolts are extremely prone to cross threading and it might be prudent to have some large washers and new bolts on hand. I am now run flat and tweaking the subwoofer to match. I am trying to establish a base level before I go with any EQ. I am fooling around with both the gain and bypass on the sub. MMMM.

The new front 6 " speakers are only rated at 30 watts. I'm certain they are 4 Ohm. The additional front tweeters are rated at 35 watts. So up front is it all on the same circuit ? The 4 " rears 30 watts max. My new head is rated at 50 W per corner. I bet the subwoofer will siphon away enough watts to equivocate the tweeters. The high level self powered sub is wired with both rear speakers so that should present some kind of load. Still waiting for iphone iOS 4.1 release.

I have received almost everything in under a week!. I installed the factory upgrade speakers and tweeters except the Subwoofer. The sound is already more engaging. Without the sub or new head the sound is more forward ( in the car )but with better bass and detail. http://www.subarupartsmall.com/category.aspx?zcid=116 I am still waiting for the two din to subaru adapter that I found on ebay england but it hasn't even been a week. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320566958427 Then I intend to install the Parrot head unit and the sub. I can't wait to hear the sub in conjunction with the new head unit. I am a little concerned that the iPhone os 4 ( 3GS 32GB ) has broken the the dock connector in regards to the Parrot head unit and that is one of the primary reasons I bought the Parrot. I have 30 days to return the head unit unopened in box to amazon. Ios 4.1 is suposed to fix this and according to the rumour mill will be released September 1. A little white knuckle for me as the head unit is the most expensive part of my purchase. The speakers/tweeters went in easily and the door panels aren't nearly as hard as I had imagined to lift.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9457033&postcount=4 I found this great post