TheLoyale

Yes, welcome! Your on the best Subaru board on the internet thats for sure. Glad you saved a Subaru from a used lot, thats what I did to my Loyale (Which was my first car and still have it today) Any questions you may have, feel free to PM us or post up a thread. Cheers, -Tom

Thanks for the break-down, those are good points. -Tom

That does remind me, I think the marking goes outwards (Towards the engine) I remember reading in my Chilton some time ago, how that could effect fitment. Good call!

Here, this video. it is a 2.5, but it is pretty much the exact same thing.

All you have to do with the EJ engines is, Take the belt off, turn the crank until the timing mark on it is straight up, then turn both cams so their timing marks are straight up (There is a dot on each cam sprocket and there is also a dot on the crank gear (Not the pully) As long as you make sure everything is pointing straight up while putting the belt on, you will be good. And yes, the cam sprockets will turn pretty easy without the belt on them, so be careful. Let me find you that video.

I have a lot of Trance CDs If you like any of it, I can burn you a CD if you like

I don't have a write-up, I could make one if I ever have a day where I think clear enough. A tip to you with getting the driver side on, is remove the lower tensioner (Its a sprocket) that will allow you enough slack to get the belt over the cam sprocket, that it like the only way to do it, even if you take the hydro tensioner out all the way, you still can't get the belt over the cam sprocket. I do have a video talking about what I have just said. I will post it in here for you. ALSO, use those Black binder clips to hold the belt on the cam pully, it will keep them from turning and keep the belt in place. Jon, A Runabout is what we call the EA82 coupe when its not an RX. Seems to fit.

I learned something new today, I thought they were basic wires with a coating on them. Thanks for pointing that out!

Wow, I just dug up this old photo. This was taken Fall 2006, a few months after I got the car. Yes, I had a round face as a child :-p

When I bought my EA82, someone removed the hood stickers as I think this hood was repainted at some point. Seeing as I have gotten the hood all repainted now, I would like to see what the factory stickers looked like and see where I can get remakes of them. Does anyone on here produce remakes of these stickers? -Tom

Yes, Oil pumps from 1985-'94 for the EA82 will all be the same from my understanding. As GD said, maybe the pump shaft is not 100% in all the way and could be bottom out in its bore once you put the final torque on it. Good luck.

I don't see the reason why to do this? The Fuseable links are just pieces of wire which complete the circuit, swapping it to a fuse box is not gonna change anything as the Fuses are still completing the circuit in the same way. You could replace the links with 12ga. wire and spade connectors and it will still work just fine. -Tom

You are right, it should spin pretty freely, When you put the shaft seal in (O-ring) for the outter rotor, did the o-ring get caught behind it? Cause the o-ring slides into a grove on the rotor wheel. Other then that, check for debris that could be getting it stuck in the rotor housing bore. Post if you find out what it is. -Tom

I am painting the 3-door style grille as we speak! And I will have a new genuine valance by Thurdays. It still have the factory black primer! Thanks JoAnne.

At this very moment, I am repainting the 3-door style grille for my Loyale Gonna look way better then before fo sho!

The guy behind the screen name At my lovely job :-p

That would be pretty interesting once its finished!

Safariwagon montage.

Right on! Thanks

Well you know my promptness, 10am means 930 Lol!!!

Not if folks would stop re-posting it via "Quote"

Checked and shocked! Me want badly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Think of the stuff I could come up with if I were on drugs. :-p I'll be there, what time we doing this? I figure if we can start on it about 10am we can have all that stuff done in a few hours. I will bring my haynes and chilton, to look up torque specs (its like 46ft. lbs and no more then 50ft.lbs) and tightening sequnces for the head bolts.

The car will still be driven in winter, but I will keep up with it, the bottom hasn't rusted anymore, because even though I POR-15d it, I still anually repaint it with semi-gloss rustolium. I'm gonna clean up the wheel arches , seal them up and be done.

Got the hood on and coated the underside of it with POR-15. Also cleaned up and coated the front frame structure, I am still waiting for a front valance, and that is whats holding me up with this.