TheLoyale

Connie, Wow coming along very well! looks like LB is having a blast (Lol) -Tom

Txakura and Connie, thank you for your comments and ideas! I figured out what I'll have to do to do what I need. Well my dad thought of it Still doesn't hurt to ask you guys while I'm doing the work (Hehe) i'll get some pictures and such soon, I'm just happy all the bolts are coming off easy. the two radius arm bolts I had to heat up and use alot of seafoam but they moved. Everything I said in my last message is off except for the Drive shaft from the tranny. I will do that tomorow. thank you again and I'm very much obligde! -Tom

Ok update: I did NOT take apart the hub, instead I installed everything that wasn't nessacery to have loose. What I am doing now is, I took of the lower controll arm (Off the frame) since I couldn't pop the BJ from the kuckle. I also took off the radius arm from the control arm, and I poped the tie-rod kuckle off the hub housing. So theres nothing holding the strut/kuckle except for the Drive shaft. SO what I am gonna do is pop out the pin that holds the DS to the tranny, then the entine drive shaft and strut/kuckle assembly will pull out and I will be able to install the 2" plate on top f the strut then mount that to the strut tower, then worrie about the rest. My and my dad have tried ever other way. I rented a spring compresser and that didn't do much, even after everything was removed off the kuckle/hub. I did manage to get the 2" plate up in th strut tower, but then how would I tighten the bolts that are on the strut top? There would be no way to do such. I think I'm ok now -Tom

Scott, Yes it is a stock EA82. I didn't think about droping the ball joint. Maybe today I'l have a ew point of view on the subject. So if I do remove the balljoint, Will the control arm/kuckle drop down enough to get that spacer plate on top of the strut? Connie, I wasn't sure if I should just forse the control arm down or not (Didn't want to damage my CV) I didn't remove the Tie rod at all. but now that I think of is (Since both of you told me) I could pop off the balljoint with out messing up my alinment. Thank you guys!! Maybe I'll get the front doen today! -Tom

Plus, once I do get that 2" spacer block in, how am I supposed to evenr think of putting the bottom of the strut back into the kuckle? I can't even get it all the wayout now, and then I'm gonna try to put it back when it mounts 2" lower? Lol impossable.

The reason I taking the hub out/apart is cause I need to pull the axle. the spline on the tranny were the axle go's into is too long to just pull the axle cup back and pop out. I can't pull the strut out of the kuckle far enough to get the bottom of the strut out of the kuckle. the top of the strut hits the strut tower, I'm trying to drop the contol arm/knuckle assembly as far as possable so I can get the strut out. and I can't compress the strut, I can only compress the spring (But the spring was being pulled down and out of the top of the strut) -Tom

OK, so I a now in the prosess of taking off the Hub/rotor so I can remove the axle so the I can drop down the control arm/kuckle assembly to remove the sturt enough to install the 2" lift block. So how do I remove the hub with the wheels lugs on it? I took off the 4 bolts in front that hold the rotor to the hub, I also removed that rear bracket that I gues is the sheild for the rotor. I can't get the hub to come off. I removed the castle nut and the washer for that, but now behind that there is another washer looking thing with a dash or line in it (Looks like those retainers for bicicle bearings. Anyhoo, does that oull out with the hub or do I need to unscrew it? Thats the only problem I'm having now. Theres no going back at this time (I went this far, I'm going to install the lift) I should have bought new rotors lol since I'm taking them off. Should I worrie about greaseing the front bearings? -Tom

Hmmm, Yes I did remove that on bracket/bolt holding the sway bar on that side. it did give me a little more room, but still not enough. I bought a spring compresser, and it is compressing the spring, but the strut it self isn't compressing (The spring is being pulled out from the top of the strut. I was soooo excited bought doing this, this weekend. But I don't think I will be able to now. I really don't want to touch the two bolts holding the bottom of the strut to the kuckel. I'm thinking if I remove the axle from the tranny that should give me enough room? Is this a bad idea? Is all I have to do is pound out that pin? I would hate to do this though. I think I'm not gonna be able to do this this weekend -Tom

How can I remove the front struts on the EA82? I have the car jacked up and removed the nuts holding the strut screws. But the CV/Axle seems to be holding the whole assembly so I can't move the strut down enough to get it out of the wheel well so I can put the spacer block in for the 2" lift.. How can I do this? Do I need to sring compresser? -Tom

Oh very nice! Gonna be getting Turbo Forester wheels huh, Cool! So after you install the adjust switch, you'll be able to extend the shocks even farther? Or will the Axles rub then?

Well whos Subaru is anything to look at, anyway? Lol I would like to see pictures.

I found that the Pioneer 260w 4-Ways are pretty awesome, I have 4 in my wagon, good sound and not to expensive. -Tom

Hmm, yea I thought I read something like that too. But I can't say for sure. I thought there were 2 plugs on the ECU that you need to plug in to clear the codes?

You know, if Subaru would have used an electric fan instead of one that runs off the engine they probably could have gained a bit more power. Did any of the older Soobs have a electric cooling fan? -Tom

Scout, Thank you, I understand now! I must have been tired not to remember what TPS stood for lol. Thanks again! -Tom

Why is this in the "Old gen" area? Should be moved to offtopic.

Oh yes that yellow wire is for the oil pressure sending unit, So the DLs doen't have oil PSI gauges? Do not run the car, but turn key to "On" just before ignition. If there are any codes the engine light on ur dash should flash them. if the light stays on then starts flashing non stop then there are no codes. -Tom

PS: If you plug those Engine light wires in and have the key "On" You'll hear a clicking.

Ben, Ok those round metal things are Fuel modulators/Regulator (Those are not vac lines) Notice the cords inside the hose(s) Fuel lines that one runs to the TB. The last picture by the fuel filter, those are for the engine light (Dionastic) Green(s) Black. I forgot where that yellow wire by the WP gos. -Tom

Yea, that thread is still in O/T (Good thread) Its called: Soobs on TV, Movie all that stuff" I believe. -Tom

Is that a Fram filter! No good can come from that. -Tom

Ideas are good Oh thats what I remember, I read something a few years back about EGRs, yea thats what it does. My memory was fuzzy like a baby duck. Just not sure about the second part, oh well I don't have a carb anyway :-p -Tom

PS: Those ratching wrenches are a life save! I have a SAE set from Stanley (Love them)

Yea I have all sorts of tools (My dad has way more though Lol) Guess it comes from growing up fixing stuff (Like how I'm growing up) I'm not to worried bout doing this, this weekend. This weekend is for the Lift! Yay! I'm just gathering info and ideas BTW, what does the EGR do? Something to do with exspelling gases or something for emissions? Anyone? -Tom

Yea I'm not going down the plier road Lol (I'm not that desprete to remove it) I'll see if I can get a ratchet with philips head socket in there. Thanks for the link! -Tom