davebugs

Also a slave fails like sometimes a master cylinder does - they look normal but the rubber gasket inside is shot. They don't necessarily leak, they just stop wotking.

I didn't look at pics. But often what's happened to me after pulling the enigne for HG or a 2.2 swap I swear something happens that often kills the slave cylinder shotly thereafter. They ar elike 60 bucks, easy to change, can be a pain to bleed. Also FYI clutch forks do crack on these cars. They the usual stuff like the TO bearing clips.

I vote timing belt. They fail MUCH more often than the fuel pump. And or course and more expensive and involved to fix. So miles and routine maintenance info (like timing belt & idlers) would help. I too am thinking you're looking in the wrong end of the car.

If you're yanking the engine reseal baffle plate. Make SURE it's the oil pan, it's usually the baffle plate leaking and coming out where eng/trans mate up, runs down oil pan ans onto Ypipe. I also do accessory belts while they are off.

Couldn't figure out where best to post this. Grabbed it from another auto forum. No Paypal or Discover though. http://www.kanolabs.com/late/

Wow - I had a post that was lost. I second the ignitor (although they rarely fail) they are cheap becasue they rarely go bad. If you need on I have one here. Another thought is alternators cause weird problems on Subaru's. I usually notice the high RPM going away first. If you let the car set a little and it has a good battery it starts back up, top end is there again, then top end keeps coming down the further you drive (since youi're rally running off of the battery). Often with these weird alt problems the BAS and another light come on (not CEL or Battery ironically). Any chain parts place wil ltest the alt for free. And the ignitor is an easy swap.

Search here about burping too. Need to refill this engine correctly. Even a video around here somewhere if you need it.

Occasionally someone shows up here who didn't do their homework and are gonna try and work around this. NONE ever seem to - atleast they don't update us here. They are gonna "drill the head" for the EGR pipe that comes from the engine. All kinds of ideas rather than just buying a correct engine. 2.2's are cheap enough. Just buy (or rebuy) one that'll work. If someone here actually knows of a thread where this was overcome please link to it!! No matter how rediculous the workaround was in time and parts. I've done a lot of these and helped folks with many and never have seen this overcome. The same folks that seem to run into this usually seem to be the really cheap folks too - which doesn't help the situation.

When I used to try and fix these yea - the surfaces needed cleaned well. Still the Walker # for the donut was just too tight. I looked through the donuts at the parts store and would buy one slightly larger that fit better. I used to keep the empty bag here so I had the part#. But get it welded and be done with it. Mine woudl usually happen before/during engine swaps or HG jobs because the joint is wimpy. So I didn't have to worry abotu exhaust being in the way when removing or installing the engine. But I did have to yank a few engines after this welded repair and found the exhaust not any more annoying to work around.

I always have this flexjoint eliminated when it leaks or even looks wimpy and I've posted that here over the years. My local INDEPENDENT place cuts it out, bends a new sleeve (straight section of pipe they expand on their pipe bending machine) and welds it up. 40 bucks. Can't beat it. Especially if flanges are rusted the parts basically cost that (2 flange repair kits, donut).

I do believe everything you mentioned WILL swap.

Ultra Grey is the "one size fits all" for Subaru's for me. I'd but other sealants would work too.

I believ ehtey call it "oil seperator plate", some call it the "baffle plate".

All true. I always used OEM crank/cam and WP gasket. But if you're on a budget, for all the more they cost, the last kid I got for a friend they looked the same as OEM. ANd stupid cheap. Probably cheaper than the aftermarket black ones that leak. IIR like 2-3 bucks each. FOr that price I got them to look a tthem in a friends kit. DOn't know if he ever installed them or not.

If you get a 95 auto (has EGR) it simply drop right in and is non-interference. So you can put a timing belt on it while it's out, other mauntanance, or simple just install in since a broken TB won't kill the engine. If you get a 96 or up 2.2 you'll need it's matching ypipe. Do some searching here. Very common swap. Several folks here have done this many times (including me). I was hesitant the first time. But really it is very easy. The folks here are very helpful.

Make sure it's not the alternator first. Stay away from WOrldwide for sure. I got a pile of starters here from 95-99's.

I'm about done for the night. But has any work been done recently? I'm leaning towards the burping question. WOndering if air got into the system by somehting other than HG's and is still stuck in there basically. Because properly draining to make sure it's burped is a little messy. And if you don't know it has an OEM thermostat that would be hte time ot change that - or the fancy NEWSTYLE upgraded Stant (the basic Stand replacement is really wimpy).

Good news. But you may not be out of the woods yet. Often after HG jobs or installing a JY 2.2 I run MMO for a little bit. COuld be 5 miles, cold be 100 miles then drain that oil and change filter. I put a quart in (and then 3+ quarts of oil). I don't permanently run MMO. I'd think for long term use it thins the oil out too much. But I truely don't know. I'm jsut wondering how the valve got "hung up" or if something else weird is going on. You may want to try a fuel additive too to clean the combustion chamber. I kinda like Lucas and run a bottle atleast every oil chance in all my vehicles.

The marked low level is rather low in the bottle. When cold if you open the rad cap do you see coolant? I'm gonna go back and reread the thread to see what's going on. Perhaps you just need a proper "burp".

2.2's don't usually cause the "bubbles in the overflow" though. That's a classic 2.5 symptom.

A 2.2 you can do in the car. ALthough I always pull them. I think you do a better job with it pulled. And can reseal the baffle plate and stuff while you're at it. Hard in my opinion to make SURE surfaces are good and remain clean during assy with the block in the car. To me it's just easier to pull the engine. And take advantage of that to do any other work. Like perhaps check the clutch if a stick, etc.

No problems with theimportexprts but I do think folks have had problems with the Mizu. I belive import has GMB pumps. I also got some of their seals for a kit for a friend and they looked like OEM in color and quality. Also their WP gasket was the rubber covered metal like OEM that I prefer. They will also add accessory belts (I forget COnti or Dayco) real cheap.

Looks like crank is o.k. Examine harmonic balancer. Idler kit, maybe crank and cam seals, WP Timing Belt and accessory belts and you're golden. Look at tensioner. And pay attention to if tensioner was slid left before it was tightened down last time. I'm starting to wonder if NOT sliding them left before tightening down the 2 bolts by folks that don't know Subaru's is a common over site. And don't forget to get that crank bolt TIGHT on reinstall. I'm parting engine so if you need anything PM me. I have TB covers, one harmonic balancer left, etc. I've had them bad enough they have screwed up the oil pump.

How is the notch on the camshaft for the woodruff key? That'll be inportant.

theimportexperts for a timing belt kit - remember to check for THEM on Ebay - sometimes a slightly better deal. Remove rad fans ( or rad) to have room for crank bolt.